528i will crank but no start - DSC malfunction, 30+ codes

[TT65]

A few blocks from my house my 2012 528i decided to go limp with dash lighting up with DSC malfunction. I try to restart car (which seems to clear other issues I have had in the past with random codes) and the car will crank but not start. We cannot even get it into neutral from park (will not shift), so special tow truck that could lift rear wheels was needed to get it home. I clear out the 30+ codes with a BMW scan tool, and try to restart, and still still throws about 10 codes, almost all of them being related to DME/DDE communications. Before I get this thing towed again, what things can I check? Battery is in great condition, replaced about 2 months ago with OEM eqiuivalent and properly registered. Seems like a electrical short or grounding issue, or CANBUS, or a module has gone bad. Also, have a massive buzz going on near the fuse box (when ignition is on) in glove compartment, the black connector with the two main red power lines going in seems to be vibrating. This is intermittent, but when it vibrates, it is quite loud.

Trying to narrow down the questions a bit:

-Anything I can do to get this into neutral to make it easier to tow?

-What electrical connections could I start testing for proper power and ground?

-Is there a way to test power to DME or any other critical modules?

I have INPA software (in addtion to my BMW code scanner), and maybe it would also be of use.

Thanks in advance for the help, would love to get this car going again before I have pay some really big bucks to dealership or independant. I love the car when it is running right!!

[jclausen]

What are the first 5 faults

[TT65]

What are the first 5 faults

Top primary faults appear to be:

801C20 ZGW:central fault memory full-no control-unit fault
D91410 Message (drive train 2 data, 230.0.2) incorrect, receiver CAS, transmistter DME/DDE
E09424 Message (data, drive train 2, 0x3FG) missing, gear selector switch receiver, transmitter
XX9406 Message (data, drive train2, 0x3F9) faulty, roof function centre receiver, TAC module / DDE transmitter

There are about 20 more that show up if I crank engine, but these are the ones that show up after clearing and then recycling ignition so are probably the base causes I assume. Many of the other ones end in "transmitter DME/DDE").

[TT65]

Also, when I turn ignition on, I get a loud humming/vibration from the large black connector in the photo, the one with the two red leads coming in from bottom...just besides the glove box fuse box. Have no idea what would cause that kind of vibration inside of a connector?? Any ideas?

I am using an 'Autophix 7910' scanner to pull the codes. Would it be helpful to pull the set of codes using INPA as well? I have only used INPA with my E60, so wasn't sure if the F10 was supported I if I need to get INSTA (I think is the newer software?).

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[jclausen]

The biggest problem is these cars are really complicated I would say most of the faults are just reacting to what ever is really going on in the car is there any wet carpets or water in the trunk

[TT65]

The biggest problem is these cars are really complicated I would say most of the faults are just reacting to what ever is really going on in the car is there any wet carpets or water in the trunk

No evidence of water anywhere and I live in a dry desert climate.

[TT65]

After playing around with multimeter, found that two of the pins at the IVM / integrated power supply module are without 12v. The pins are pins 5 and 6, adn these go over to the DME to feed it power. So it looks to me like either the relay in the IVM is bad, or the two fuses in the IVM are bad. Does anyone have experience troublshooting the IVM? Am I correct that pins 5 and 6 should be hot when the ignition is on (or is it only when start button is pushed?). On this module, the fuses are not accessible, I see where someone cut the plastic cap off to replace the fuses, I am tempted to do that to check out the fuses. But then the other question is, if a fuse, what caused it to blow. Maybe a wiring harness issue, so I can ohm that out too. An insights form someone who has walked this path is appreciated.

IMG_2745 (1).jpgScreen Shot 2021-03-01 at 10.11.41 AM.png

[jclausen]

The ivm is a good possibility most of the time the complaint we had for replacing the ivm was drive the car shut it off come back to it say 15 mins engine turns over won’t start wait 45 mins and it would start, this would be with a fully warmed up engine

[JeffreyBass0]

So did you ever confirm that it was the IVM?