I have a relative that always asks me why I don't bring my car to a shop. The reason is they do not baby my car like I do. Today I needed 4 new tires so my hands were tied. I reluctantly went to a tire shop. After they finished I saw they pulled my stick shift off exposing the wires (see pic). So I went to test to see if the stick shift still lit up in my garage but now none of my interior gauge lights are on. Any advice?
Shift.jpg
Last edited by Kram71; 02-25-2021 at 06:06 PM.
The knob was not loose at all. I have driven it for 7 years. It never came off once. I'm so pissed. The guy kept driving forward when trying to reverse. I could tell he had issues. Could those stick shift wires have shorted a fuse or something regarding my other lights? Headlights work but no gauges or those lights.
Last edited by Kram71; 02-25-2021 at 06:18 PM.
Good chance the headlight switch wires broke, shorted against the shift rod and fried the headlight switch
I had a tire idiot do the same thing to mine, and had to find the blown fuse to get everything working again. He literally pulled it off and tore the wiring out, put the knob back on, wound the wire around the shaft, and didn't tell anyone! Made for an interesting conversation with the Manager.
Marty
That is exactly what I just found. So now they cost me another $50 probably for a new part. I'm so disappointed in them.
Anyone know how I can prevent that from happening if I buy a new switch?
Common failure. The lighted gear shift knob wiring shorts out and burns the rheostat in the headlight switch.
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Would be great if just a fuse. I will check. My genius did not even put the shifter back on. Just left it like I would not notice.
A new M headlight switch runs closer to $300. I wish they were $50. You can solder your existing switch, but you'll lose dimming.
Edit: looks like price went down a little. I recall about $285 last I looked.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...h/61318353508/
Last edited by s8ilver; 02-25-2021 at 06:37 PM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
I just bought a new headlight switch from FCP Euro for just under $240.
Marty
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
The knob cant be put back if I find the short in the wires?
I showed them before leaving. He wanted to try to "fix it" but I said no thank you after what they did already. I will be calling in the morning. I do everything myself to avoid crap like this. I'm so frustrated. Problem is I dont want this guy to get fired over this.
It depends where it broke. Did it rip the connector off or did the wires pull out of the knob itself? If you can find the break and repair it, no big harm. If you don't care if it lights up, find the break and tape it off or shrink wrap it and use the knob as is.
Sounds like the tech was convinced he had to pull up for reverse. Some old cars did have a collar to pull up on to get into reverse, so I could understand that thinking. A friend tried to move my car once and just kept going forward. Once I told him to push left about 3x what he thought it required, he was fine.
You MIGHT have gotten lucky and a fuse blew first. I'd poke around and see what you see. If the switch is toast, nothing really wrong with a used one either.
Last edited by s8ilver; 02-25-2021 at 07:19 PM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
I checked a bunch of fuses. They all looked good. The wires on the knob have a slight crack right at the base of the knob. I do not think I could get tape in on that area well. Don't want to do all this work and then have it short again. Might not even connect the lighted portion after buying a new headlight switch and knob. I saw some people soldered a wire on their old switch but no dimming. I do not even drive at night much but its just the frustration that they will cost me $250-$450 in parts.
Last edited by Kram71; 02-25-2021 at 07:28 PM.
I think the dimmer switch variable resistor acts like the fuse and it gets so hot it breaks. You may be able to solder it back together so that the lights are always max brightness. It think there's some info on the web about that.
There's a special tool to get that switch out. You can do it with screwdrivers but I think it's easy to break some of the locking tabs.
I did mine when I got the car. Only max wasn't working because the coiled resistor wire had fried. Looking back at my post, maybe it was just tarnished, but I'm pretty sure it was fried. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...e-a-blown-fuse
Maybe try turning yours down to see if it works with reostat in different position.
FCP Euro has the headlight switch for $203 and the knob for $204. I just emailed the company. I do not mind doing the work but this is an expensive mistake. Problem is I really do not want the guy to get fired over this so I'm hesitant to make trouble.
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Thanks I saw the tool to pull it out somewhere. I tried adjusting it all. No luck. Seems like its fried.
Ok, so there is no way to pull the knob off by mistake--that gorilla got angry and yanked it off on purpose--probably smacked himself in the eye with it too. The shop has to totally own up to what they did and pay for the fix. Check your wheels to make sure they didn't mar them in mounting the tires--if he couldn't drive a stick, he's not likely to know to mount them backwards in the machine.
The wheels were my primary concern before going. They might have a tiny thing here or there but overall the wheels seem fine. I called the shop. They asked me to come down tomorrow. I really do not want to get anyone in trouble but this is going to cost me $407 plus tax in parts. I was really upset but hopefully the shop will make things right.
Genuine Z3 headlight switch for $169.22 plus shipping from Otto's BMW is West Chester, PA.
https://www.bmwpartshub.com/oem-part...ch-61318353506
You're welcome.
2001 Z3 3.0i -Oxford Green/Sandbeige
2016 428xi -Estoril Blue II/Black
2018 430iC- Estoril Blue II/Black
2018 330it - Melbourne Red/Venetian Beige/Black
On my daily driver I don't bother but on my toy, I pull the wheels in my garage and take them in for tires. It's a pain but this kind of thing is not uncommon every where. It's sad people don't take more pride in their work.
Ironically I did take 1 wheel myself in another car because it was had a hole. Then put that new tire on the Z3m and drove back in the Z3M to get the other 3 tires done. I thought I was doing good by getting all 4 tires done on the same day. Unless I have no other choice I'm never letting anyone touch my cars again.
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Weird that site says it doesn't fit. I found it for around $190 after shipping from a BMW site but might use FCP Euro anyway. I have used them for many parts and I can get free shipping and the knob at the same time.
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This one on the same site says it fits.
https://www.bmwpartshub.com/oem-part...bC1sNi1nYXM%3D
If he gets fired it will be his problem, not yours. If her can't be trusted not to cause damage to customer cars, he shouldn't be anywhere near them. As others have said, those knobs are really difficult to pull off, so he must have really gone at it. Think of it this way - maybe he damaged other cars in the past but the owners didn't want to make a fuss, and because of that he was able to damage your car.
Agreed--you wouldn't want the guy getting fired over making a mistake, and your shop wouldn't fire him over making a mistake--in that business they wouldn't have any employees left if they fired each one who made a mistake--it's the norm. But he didn't make a mistake--he attacked your car in a outburst of anger over a minor frustration. This guy is in the wrong field for making violent outbursts over minor frustrations and should not be allowed in or around customer cars. They should fire him--in any event, they need to know this is happening and to understand that this wasn't an accident--pulling that knob is a challenge not an accident.
delete double post
You have to take the knob off (deep socket for the nut, then unscrew it off of the shaft), then pull the screw out at the top, then take off the vent, which will fight you, but it does come off. Once you have the vent housing popped loose use a long narrow screwdriver to release the latches on each side holding the headlight switch, then take the vent housing off completely. There's enough slack in the cable to get the switch out, disconnect the harness plug, connect it to the new switch, and tuck it back behind the dash. You have to get the vent back in to position, then pull the headlight switch into the vent housing until it latches in place. The only thing I struggled with was getting the new switch latched into the cover; finally found that if I pulled the shaft out (turned the headlights on) I could get it through the hole, then carefully grab it with pliers and pull it into position. Then put the vent all the way back in, install the screw at the top, screw on the knob and the nut, put back on the outer knob, and you're done.
Marty
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