Audio adapter: Break the harness latch

[cyberman]

I've gotten a harness adapter and removed the radio. Now, how do I plug the adapter into the harness? There is a sliding latch, just remove it?

Also, my car wasn't fitted with the security system. There is a plastic bump stop screwed on the back to the radio. Do I need to push that into the "socket" on the firewall? The bump stop is a simple cylinder and doesn't look like some I've seen.

Thanks for your help!

[s8ilver]

Pretty sure you can just slide it back down to lock the two pieces together.

Pic 10 shows it still attached with an aftermarket harness adapter:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...eplacement.htm

As far as the alarm switch, you can just unplug it. I don't think it matters though if you don't have an alarm installed.

[z3forlife]

The rear stub keeps the unit level so the stress isn’t all at the front. If your unit has a CD player it will help prevent skipping as well. What we really need is a harness adapter for the amp connector that would provide rca input to a aftermarket amp. You could keep the stock head if so desired too.

[s8ilver]

The rear stub keeps the unit level so the stress isn’t all at the front. If your unit has a CD player it will help prevent skipping as well. What we really need is a harness adapter for the amp connector that would provide rca input to a aftermarket amp. You could keep the stock head if so desired too.

That's what's kept me from swapping out to one of the Continental units. I just want to find something OE looking that has line outs. And Bluetooth. And a CD player.

My mistake on the stub. I was thinking of the switch for the keyless entry system.

[cyberman]

You guys are great and this forum is like home. Thanks.

What we really need is a harness adapter for the amp connector that would provide rca input to a aftermarket amp.

Thanks all, yep, I'm pulling the interior apart to lay the RCA cables - the idea would work maybe, if someone cleverly figured out adapters for both ends so some existing wires could be used for the low-level lines.

Pic 10 shows it still attached with an aftermarket harness adapter:

It didn't seem to want to go, there were/are four large "bumps" on the adapter which would not allow it to slide onto the harness. I'll look again tomorrow, I didn't fire up the heater in the shop and it was cold.

OE looking that has line outs. And Bluetooth. And a CD player.

I picked up a Pioneer with everything except "OE Looking". Frankly, that doesn't matter much for me as my babe is just a "summer driver" which is sort of like a daily driver but with more of a fun factor and the only person whose opinion matters is me. If it sounds good and fits my budget, well it can always be upgraded.

[cushjbc]

cyberman,

I can't tell if you are interested in wiring aftermarket amplifiers to the existing radio harness in the trunk. I de-soldered the PCB pin boards from 2 salvage HK amplifiers, rewired them to enable installation of 2 JL Audio amplifiers and kept the body harness intact. It is a bit of work, but it can be done . . .

IMG_3564.jpg

The receiver part of the picture above came with the salvage harness. I used it to do continuity checks and take a close look at integrity before I rigged it up in my car.

IMG_3560.jpg

I still have the factory installed HK system in boxes.

[z3forlife]

A guy could create a niche market making up adapters for the amp plug. I’m not sure but I think there’s only two basic iterations. The single amp and the dual amp setups. Wedo phones has the schematic we just need to determine the proper plug manufacturer. Maybe when I retire.

[s8ilver]

I picked up a Pioneer with everything except "OE Looking". Frankly, that doesn't matter much for me as my babe is just a "summer driver" which is sort of like a daily driver but with more of a fun factor and the only person whose opinion matters is me. If it sounds good and fits my budget, well it can always be upgraded.

Same here. I've been running the same Pioneer Premier HU I've had since the late 90s. It's now in the M, which is car #3 or #4. It was near top of the line then, the DEH-P940mp. I wanted the DEX-P99RS but those were $1k then and still are today. I couldn't afford that back in high school and if I'm spending that these days it's on vintage home audio gear. Today's $200 units work wonders. I just find most of them hideous.

[cyberman]

I can't tell if you are interested in wiring aftermarket amplifiers to the existing radio harness in the trunk.

I already cut the harness...oh well.

To answer my original question, it was obvious with plenty of light in the shop, the four "bumps" on the radio harness adapter fit into matching detents on the harness connect and lever in place just as the harness fit the OE Radio.

But now I have some other issues, the new amp I got is 120 W x 4 channels RMS (at 2 Ohms) and it has two 25 amp fuses. So, I figure I need a 50 amp fuse. I thought I could power it from the harness power, but the radio circuit has two fuses, one at 15 amps (probably for the radio) and one at 20 amps which I'd guess is or the amplifier. There are no other fuses labeled "amplifier". To add to my woes, my first year model has the battery under the hood and not in the trunk. The harness wiring for the OE amp has small wire diameter and I'm sure the amp would blow the OE 20 amp fuse. So, it looks like I'm stuck bringing the power from the front of the car to the trunk. If anyone has an easy solution (least possible work), please let me know.The radio is wired in, and most of the interior removed where the RCA cables are to be run. But the amp installation kit has thick diameter read wire and I fear it may be a pain unless someone here can suggest something.

[cyberman]

I just find most of them hideous.

Yep, my head unit has a truly horrible blue light and I saw the dimming function in the menu but the "color" adjustment seems to be missing. Oh well, once all the wiring is in place, an upgrade would be a snap. I turned it on to test whether I'd gotten my wires crossed or not. Tomorrow, I'll try to run it connected to the amp with all wires exposed (not buried) just to see how it sounds with my 6x9 roll bar mounted speakers along with the kick panel speakers.

[RX7ames]

I already cut the harness...oh well.

To answer my original question, it was obvious with plenty of light in the shop, the four "bumps" on the radio harness adapter fit into matching detents on the harness connect and lever in place just as the harness fit the OE Radio.

But now I have some other issues, the new amp I got is 120 W x 4 channels RMS (at 2 Ohms) and it has two 25 amp fuses. So, I figure I need a 50 amp fuse. I thought I could power it from the harness power, but the radio circuit has two fuses, one at 15 amps (probably for the radio) and one at 20 amps which I'd guess is or the amplifier. There are no other fuses labeled "amplifier". To add to my woes, my first year model has the battery under the hood and not in the trunk. The harness wiring for the OE amp has small wire diameter and I'm sure the amp would blow the OE 20 amp fuse. So, it looks like I'm stuck bringing the power from the front of the car to the trunk. If anyone has an easy solution (least possible work), please let me know.The radio is wired in, and most of the interior removed where the RCA cables are to be run. But the amp installation kit has thick diameter read wire and I fear it may be a pain unless someone here can suggest something.

I am currently in the process of a complete audio replacement. I originally tried to keep as much original wiring as possible but ran into problem after problem. I wasn't getting a full signal from the OEM wires so I ran RCAs under the center console to the amp. Then I wasn't getting a signal to the front driver kick panel speaker so I decided to run all new speaker wires. I said screw it and just cut out all the original audio wires.

As far as running power wire to the trunk, I would just run a 4 AWG wire from the hood along the right side of the car under the carpet to the back. You will need a 120-150 watt fuse to protect the 4 AWG wire. Behind the passenger seat is a grommet that passes through to the trunk, unless yours doesn't have it. If not you can run it through a grommet to the back.

My carpet is currently removed so I would be happy to take pictures and show you the path.

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[cyberman]

As far as running power wire to the trunk, I would just run a 4 AWG wire from the hood along the right side of the car under the carpet to the back. You will need a 120-150 watt fuse to protect the 4 AWG wire. Behind the passenger seat is a grommet that passes through to the trunk, unless yours doesn't have it. If not you can run it through a grommet to the back.

Thanks, and I have to figure out where to go through the firewall (with grommet) from the engine compartment. I really hoped I could fish the RCA cable under the center console without entirely removing it as I saw a guy do that on YouTube. But I doubt that stiff power cable could be easily fished. I hope I can use the OE front kick panel speaker wire in the trunk, and should know this weekend when I do a test wiring with RCA and power lines not buried. The Jenson amp specifies a fuse within 18" of the unit so the power line will have fuses on each end. Adding to the pressure, a 60 deg day just popped up on the forecast. But its a phantom now as any forecast more than a few days out here in the Midwest is pure conjecture:

conjecture.png

[RX7ames]

The Jenson amp specifies a fuse within 18" of the unit so the power line will have fuses on each end.

I've never heard of a requirement to put a fuse within a certain distance from the amp. Instructions usually specify a certain distance within the battery. You should put your fuse as close as you can to the battery. Any additional fuses will not offer more protection.

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[cyberman]

You should put your fuse as close as you can to the battery.

Thank makes sense to me. Now my issue is not one of any unsurmountable technical nature. It isn't even the PITA of the job. It comes down to age of my body and having to work under the dash and twist myself around with all the associated cramping that comes with being a 65 year old office worker. Thirty years ago, I wouldn't think twice although I would suffer some after effects, but now:

I plan to take power off the fuse box on the drivers side and then fish an 8 Gauge power wire through, either an existing grommet or punch a hole and put in a grommet. I checked gauge vs. distance charts and given the distance and amp requirements I should be okay. BUT, and its a big but for me that means working under the dash and twisting myself into unnatural and painful positions. Once through the firewall, I plan to fish the wire up and over and down through the center console along with (but separated from) the RCA wires. I've read threads that one can go through the firewall somewhere near the footrest. Then add to the pain (again for me) getting the carpet out of the back to go through a grommet into the trunk. Again, not a problem for a young buck, but it was painful last time I pulled the carpet to get to the shock mounts (a couple of months ago).

Is there a question in all this? Yes, I read Pelican's writeup on "removing the center console and it involved removing the driver's side "submarine" plate, among other painful under dash work. But I've seen videos where just the front screws are loosened, well my question is can I avoid some work just to get the center console up sufficiently to run my wires? So reading between the lines, what's the least painful way to do this?

In the end, this job is turning out to be a lot bigger pain than I originally anticipated and I'm just trying to cut my losses.

[s8ilver]

As per console removal, it's actually easiest to just remove it first since the "ears" of the glove box and driver's side panel tuck under it. The most fiddly bit of the console removal is getting all the switches out without breaking anything and getting the opening to clear the e-brake, unless you remove it (I didn't). Otherwise it's just screws. I didn't touch the crash plate. IMO Pelican tends to go a bit overboard.

[RX7ames]

Why don't you just run your power wire under the side of the carpet next to the door seal? That would be much easier.

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[RX7ames]

By the way, here is the routing of the factory power wire. I would do something similar and avoid the center console.

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[RX7ames]

I've also been thinking about your wiring. You said you will get power off of your fuse box. Most people come straight off the battery. Are you planning on using one of those plugs that you plug into an open fuse slot and get power off of that? It may not be enough.

Also, 8 AWG sounds good enough for your current amp. 125x4 at 2 ohms is more like 60x4 into 4 ohms. But if there is any chance for upgrading in the future you may want to go with a 4 AWG wire. But maybe that's just me overbuilding stuff.

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[cyberman]

Re RX7ames: I've also been thinking about your wiring. You said you will get power off of your fuse box. Most people come straight off the battery. Are you planning on using one of those plugs that you plug into an open fuse slot and get power off of that? It may not be enough.

Thanks for the pictures and thanks for your patience with me. I could go either way (passenger or driver's side). My fusebox is on the driver's side and the battery is on the passenger's side. The reason I thought of using the fuse box is that there's a big bolt where the battery connects and I figured I could use that for my power line (the kit comes with a big round ring connector just like the one that powers the fuse box). I'm hoping to avoid routing my power wire through the fuse box, just secure it to the side and go in under it (if I can find a path through the firewall). Some threads say there is grommet under the fusebox accessible from the inside once you remove the footrest and some of the carpet, but I'm not perfectly clear on that. The tip I read is to stick your fish in from the cabin and then you can find the end more easily somewhere under the fuse box. It looks like whatever I do, I may have to pull up some carpet, but I'm hoping not much carpet. Of course, if all else fails, sometimes the hard way is actually the easiest way.

Another reason I'm thinking of going through on the driver's side is that with AC, and a fragile glove box I don't want to remove once again, I didn't see any easy/obvious ways of punching through the firewall on the passenger's side.

I don't plan to actually use any of the existing fuse slots and have a separate fuse I can put on the new power line.

The reason I thought of routing the power through the center console is, plainly, laziest possible way (fastest and least destruction of my old body) and since I have to get the center console up, well then I avoid removing carpet and all kinds of work I've never done with this model. All simple to you or anyone who's done it, not so simple for me. Just as a reference, I've had the seats out a couple of times, and each time I end up with major pain, just from the weight and all the bending to get to the bolts. And, basically, after a winter of hard work redoing the suspension and other things, I just want to get this job done and drive. DRIVE. I'm itching to take her out now.

Reference: If I can get to about the 18-19 minute mark in this guys struggle to remove his console, I'm in like flint, assuming it would move that much without disconnecting all the heating switches.

See:

if there is any chance for upgrading in the future you may want to go with a 4 AWG wire

No chance for me. I might go for higher quality components, but not higher power.

RE s8ilver: As per console removal, it's actually easiest to just remove it first since the "ears" of the glove box and driver's side panel tuck under it.

I've watched videos on the procedure. I'm hoping I can just lift it up a bit without completely uninstalling it since all I have to do is fish the two pairs of RCA wires and, maybe, the power wire through. I've got the storage console in the rear out of the way and a big hole where the radio used to be. I have a new little 15' micro fish coming and if I can the console up maybe an inch or two, I'm pretty sure I can do the wiring.

If you can live with 8-gauge, this install kit has a very thin and flexible multi-stranded power wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And, I'm hoping this little fish will help: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 At 15', it seems ideal for automotive work.

[RX7ames]

For fish line I just use a wire clothes hanger. Maybe there's better stuff, but it's always worked.

And you really don't need to pull the console or even lift it to run RCA wires through it. I ran RCAs from the trunk through the center console all the way to the radio without pulling the console. It was very easy. I had the seats out which helped. Removing the rear subwoofer plastic piece helped too. You just slide the RCAs I to the center console from the bottem edge.

The only reason I pulled my center console and carpet is because I discovered my carpet was soaked and holding a ton of water from a previous leak. It honestly wasn't that bad though.

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[cyberman]

Thanks, I'll try, with the back of the console loosened, I see I can get it up past the shift level, but going forward and then up from there looks difficult.

[cyberman]

I'm happy to report the wires are all laid and I could start testing. For the few of you who have the early model with the battery under the hood (or for any who come later). I found an opening through the firewall as big as a barn door. It's in the "battery compartment" between the computer and the battery and low down about on line with the sill where the back of the hood mates with the body. You'll find a "plug" which with a hole cut of the middle becomes a grommet. Below is a picture with my new power wire running through it and before the "grommet" has been reinstalled.

barn door.jpg

I ran the power wire behind the glove box and into the dash, then down through the center console.

By the way, for automotive work that micro-fish I posted earlier is great. It's steel and hard enough to punch through or around obstacles, yet flexible enough to know when to give.

Now the problem I have is that the I get sound out of the big roll-hoop-mounted speakers and it's decent for the $65 I paid for them and they are wired directly to the amp. But:

In trying to use the existing wiring for kick panel speakers, the wiring diagram I downloaded makes no sense at all in regards the color coding on the twisted speaker pairs. So that's confounding, but I've tried three of the eight and can't get anything out of any of them. I'm thinking of just testing them all with a separate source to discover which one is which, otherwise there is a problem with my four channel Jensen amp, or the pioneer head unit. I suspect the head unit, since I switched the RCA pairs and still got sound, but when I fade full front to rear, nothing seems to happen. Just my luck...

[z3forlife]

You could connect a tone generator at the speaker location and tone it out at the harness or better yet meter each conductor end to end. The color codes are German that’s probably why they don’t make sense.

[cyberman]

The color codes are German that’s probably why they don’t make sense.

I don't have a ton generator, thinking of just using another radio's speaker output. I downloaded the German>English color coding (GE = Yellow and things aren't matching up to the diagram). I have a very early model (Feb 96) and maybe they had initial supply issues on the wiring. My larger is issue is to figure out which of the new components, the head or the amp isn't working, but I've got a plan.

[s8ilver]

Another way to test speakers is to just use a battery...like a AA. Just a quick tap with a wire on each end and the speaker will give a little feedback letting you know what's what.

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