My 2008 535Xi was very slow to start this morning unlike normal. Drove it for ~10 miles to the grocery. Would not start. After fiddling around with the info sources I thought I'd check oil level. It showed red and only in the oil pan with the 'add a quart' message. I just checked it yesterday or the day before and it was completely full. No oil traces on the ground anywhere including my garage. So I'm pulling the battery to have it checked; AutoZone is half a mile away. Taking some oil with me. I'm not a big fan of dipstick-less cars.
Not sure why I'm posting, maybe that I'm hoping the oil reading is an anomaly... perhaps from low battery voltage. I didn't think to check the battery voltage via ODB. I did check coolant temp - 177F. I know that's not proof-positive that no damage could be done, but just FYI.
Crossing my fingers...
JT
You were able to check the oil with the car not running? Mine only lets me check it when it running.
I had a recent hard-start on my '07 525xi (among other issues), and it was a faulty crank position sensor.
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I first tried to check it but got the message "oil level check only available with ignition on" or something like that. So I pushed the 'start' button and waited, then the oil level was shown. I'm skeptical if that was a true measurement. I'm now trying to find an Interstate battery dealer that will honor the warranty and will do so without requiring the battery in the car. So far, Costco and Precision Tune don't honor Interstate warranties unless you bought it from them and one Firestone dealer said the battery must be in the car. The Exxon dealer I bought it from isn't open today. Shaking my head....
Had the battery checked at AutoZone. Results were 'good' battery needing a charge. Charged battery at home then put battery back in car. No go. No starter noise, no solenoid click... nothing. Got a AWD and DSC malfunction message. Disconnected the IBS just to see if that was the issue; no change. Now searching forums for tips.
My E60 is the first car I've owned without a dipstick, and I'm not a fan.
I honestly don't trust it, after the first oil change I did on it after I bought it, I put in the specified quantity of oil, checked it via the dashboard dipstick, and it read low. I checked after it had sat a while, and it was fine.
I recently had my car in for service, and the mechanic added oil because it was low. On the way home, I got a low-oil message, stopped for 2 quarts to be safe, checked again, and it was fine.
It seems like I get random results every time I check it, even on the same drive. Low, mid-stick, normal.
Give me a steel dipstick any day of the week. And don't get me started about checking the trans fluid.
Hope you find some answers.
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First the battery needs to be load tested, a surface test tells you nothing, if you get dash lights with no noises try another key
The AutoZone test was for load. I also know that these cars can be finicky when it comes to batteries so I may take it to the service station where I bought it to have a second test and maybe get a pro-rata replacement. I will take my second key to try; thanks for the suggestion. I'm also taking a set of 'small' jumper cables to try an alternative block to chassis ground in case my passenger side block to chassis cable is compromised. I'll also do a more thorough check of voltage from critical points and also check the start relay.
I found the problem... the ground cable from block to frame is burnt/corroded near the motor mount end. I took a set of jumper cables with me (car is stranded away from home) and made a temporary ground - car cranked up and ran fine. So I'll return with a 2nd driver, put a smaller temporary ground cable in for driving purposes, just so the DME won't whack out and drive it home.
So I'm not sure how easy the frame end of the cable can be installed. I'll search for threads. If it's too tough, I may just take it to the shop and also have them install the Bank 1 upstream O2 sensor that I had planned to install this weekend.
Glad you found an answer. Hope it's simple to remedy.
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Got the car home with the temporary ground using jumper cables. Got to the frame ground stud fairly easily; just remove the pass. wheel and one small wheel well panel. On to the motor mount end. That's a real toughie. There's a gap between the motor and heat shield that's about 2" wide. I tried every combination of socket, crows foot, normal and wobble extension and universal to get it off. There's a hard pipe about 2-3" above the nut so you can't come in straight. So I'm going to get a flare crows foot tomorrow; I think that's my only chance besides removing a boatload of components.
Is there another location you can attach a different ground strap permanently and bypass the original ground?
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I don't see any good studs, bolts etc. that would work. I've now tried a swivel socket and a flare nut crows foot. There's just no space to get any type of socket to slip on the nut far enough to get good purchase. I'm going to try a 'short' 13mm socket. If that doesn't work, I'm throwing up my hands and taking it to a shop.
Just to close out this thread, I took it to the shop. $60 parts & $150 labor later, all is well.
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