1995 M3 Time Attack build (on a budget)

**skrimshaw90** · 02-17-2021, 10:47 PM

Been doing HPDE for a couple of years and decided that this year its time to get into some competition. Starting out with a local series, MIDIV so this car is being built around their rule book. Little back ground on myself, this is my first BMW. Came from a C5 z06 and before that i had a Subaru STI and Turbo'd BRZ. Ive built a bunch of cars (mainly Subarus) and stripped down a couple E46 M3s for partout reasons (I run a dealership and sell parts) but this is my first actual build. German engineering is quite different then the JDM stuff im used to but so far im a fan.

Decided to go for a M3 because theyre cheap, i can buy 17" tires for cheap, brakes are cheap, engines are cheap ect.ect.

Build List:
The car came with a roll bar and all reinforcements already done
Also had full suspension bushings done
UUC shifter
UUC exhaust
Koyo radiator

What ive done so far:
Full engine refresh
VAC rod bearings
S54 oil pump with VAC upgrade
ARP studs
OEM gasket kit
Vanos rebuild
New chains/tensioners/guides

ARC wheels with Pirelli slicks (ill be running hoosier R7s for competition)
Hoosier wets with K1 wheels

Stoptech C43 brake kit with DTC 70 pads
Hardmotorsports brake ducts
Stock rear calipers with DTC 70 pads

Fortune Auto 510s w/swift springs 10k front 12k rear
Adj rear control arms
Front turner sway bar
ADJ end links

JBR aluminum flywheel with M5 clutch
Shift detents all done when the trans was out

Bimarco Halo seat
Momo wheel

Im probably forgetting a ton of stuff

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**skrimshaw90** · 02-17-2021, 10:55 PM

The original bearings still looked really good
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New VAC bearings
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S54 oil pump with VAC upgraded internals
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- - - Updated - - -

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**skrimshaw90** · 02-17-2021, 11:04 PM

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**bimmerboy318** · 02-18-2021, 07:08 AM

Sub’d

**aeronaut** · 02-18-2021, 09:47 AM

I love gearhead stuff, sub'd! Looking good so far.

**skrimshaw90** · 02-19-2021, 04:38 PM

The current issues im still having:

When i engage abs and let off the brake pedal the car will not release the brakes until i come to a stop and hit the brake pedal again. Already tried a new pedal travel sensor and swapped out a couple wheel speed sensors to no avail. I have no abs light, but i just got a scanner so im going to plug it in and see if anything comes up.

The clutch is engaging super low, to the point where i had to take out the clutch stop in order to get enough travel to release the pressure plate. I went ahead and ordered a new clutch fork, pivot ball, release bearing guide and a couple other things to try and solve this issue. Ive also got a spare m5 clutch with another release bearing so hopefully i can figure out what the issue here is. (i have bled the slave numerous times to no avail-slave and master are also new)

**skrimshaw90** · 02-27-2021, 09:23 PM

Ive done this input shaft seal on the transmission twice now, both with oem seals and it continues to leak. What on earth is going on here???

**aeronaut** · 02-28-2021, 09:06 AM

Do you protect the seal when you slide it over the end of the input shaft?
Lateral play of shaft in spec? (I can't remember what it is, but I think it's listed in Bentley.)

**skrimshaw90** · 02-28-2021, 10:31 AM

The innper lip of the seal isnt touching anything upon installation and is in the correct position (didnt get folded over or nicked)

The cam seal on turbo subarus is the exact same seal. Ive built a ton of those so i have installed these seals more times then i can count.

I guess when i pull the trans AGAIN ill check the play, although im not sure that would be an issue since the pilot would prevent the input shaft from having any play?

**skrimshaw90** · 02-28-2021, 09:18 PM

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**aeronaut** · 03-01-2021, 10:31 AM

Originally Posted by skrimshaw90

The innper lip of the seal isnt touching anything upon installation and is in the correct position (didnt get folded over or nicked)

The cam seal on turbo subarus is the exact same seal. Ive built a ton of those so i have installed these seals more times then i can count.

I guess when i pull the trans AGAIN ill check the play, although im not sure that would be an issue since the pilot would prevent the input shaft from having any play?

Oh right, the input shaft at the seal is larger OD than where the splines are.
The pilot bearing would prevent lateral movement if the lateral play is in spec. I could imagine a case where the lateral play is severely out of spec (EG, the internal bearing is shot), and the shaft moves enough to quickly destroy the seal. I know it's a long shot, but if you're removing the trans again anyway, check the lateral play.

**skrimshaw90** · 03-01-2021, 01:13 PM

Will do, my buddy worked on a bunch of bmws in the past and he said i can just double up on the seal. Drive the current one all the way back to the cir-clip and then install the new one in front of it. Seems like a good and idea.

**skrimshaw90** · 03-04-2021, 08:13 PM

Dropped the trans again today (3rd time), getting pretty quick at it.

I replaced the entire clutch and finally got the right engagement, so i can check that nasty booger off the list.

For the seal, i think i had driven it in too much. I belive it was making contact with the circlip and distorting the lip on the seal which would obviously cause a leak. I installed a new one completely flush this time so time will tell!

**skrimshaw90** · 03-05-2021, 08:38 PM

Got an alignment done today and im sitting at 4.5deg of caster.

It has offset power flex bushings with meyle control arms. What can i do to gain some caster? (did some searching but havnt found anything definitive)

**bjh102** · 03-05-2021, 10:39 PM

Originally Posted by skrimshaw90

Got an alignment done today and im sitting at 4.5deg of caster.

It has offset power flex bushings with meyle control arms. What can i do to gain some caster? (did some searching but havnt found anything definitive)

Camber plates if you don’t already have them.

**skrimshaw90** · 03-06-2021, 09:57 AM

My fortune auto 510s came with camber plates and theyre maxed out.

**olemiss540** · 03-06-2021, 06:49 PM

Could use slr adjustable fcabs. Nice pieces and will put caster wherever you want it.

**bjh102** · 03-06-2021, 10:41 PM

Originally Posted by olemiss540

Could use slr adjustable fcabs. Nice pieces and will put caster wherever you want it.

Aren’t there also control arms that come with more caster? I forget if it’s 95 or 96-99 that add more.

**skrimshaw90** · 03-07-2021, 09:06 PM

The ADJ fcab will be the route ill go, unless someone else can chime in?

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some pics from todays shake down

**FastFabM3** · 03-08-2021, 12:08 PM

Originally Posted by skrimshaw90

What can i do to gain some caster? (did some searching but havnt found anything definitive)

Reducing the KPI will help with the caster in regards to turning the car (weight jacking and camber while turning). You can check out my build thread here, where I go deeply into the front end geometry effects about two or three posts down: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...rmance-project

You should also update the front end to 96+ spec components, while retaining the offset lower control arm bushing geometry from your '95. That will bump it up, because the '95 uses standard base model geometry arms and such, while the later cars used a more advantageous increased caster geometry, but with base style bushings. So combining the two years puts the caster at a greater level than they ever came from the factory with and it will be noticeable on the track with increased turn-in response and cornering power.

**skrimshaw90** · 03-08-2021, 01:01 PM

In order to use the 96+ control arms i would need the 96+ knuckle as well correct?

**bimmerboy318** · 03-08-2021, 01:32 PM

Originally Posted by skrimshaw90

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Do you have a mods list to accompany this?

**skrimshaw90** · 03-08-2021, 05:22 PM

3.5 maf
21.5lbs injectors
turner chip
cats removed
uuc catback

the rest is completely stock

**olemiss540** · 03-08-2021, 08:06 PM

Originally Posted by skrimshaw90

In order to use the 96+ control arms i would need the 96+ knuckle as well correct?

No. It will all bolt up. Check out some Google searching on the difference in geometry between the arms.

The reason I recommend the adjustable fcabs are you can set them exactly as you want so less trial and error.

**aeronaut** · 03-09-2021, 06:37 AM

Originally Posted by skrimshaw90

Dropped the trans again today (3rd time), getting pretty quick at it.

I replaced the entire clutch and finally got the right engagement, so i can check that nasty booger off the list.

For the seal, i think i had driven it in too much. I belive it was making contact with the circlip and distorting the lip on the seal which would obviously cause a leak. I installed a new one completely flush this time so time will tell!

Hilarious, I actually thought of this the other day, and forgot to come back here and post. Yea, that seal doesn't really have a "seat' to set against. I had to pull a new one and re-do it. That's almost certainly it!! Excellent!