Where is the clutch bleeder screw located?

[zatu]

Bled the brakes, but the clutch pedal still doesn't have the firmness.

Is it easy as doing the brakes, or will I need to disassemble anything down there?

[Vintage42]

The bleeder screw is on the slave cylinder under the car.

Clutch Slave Cylinder.jpg

Clutch slave cylinder bleeding:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...4#post27417074
https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/c.../#post-6768882

[KeysCoupe]

My experience in clutch bleeding requires unbolting the slave from the transmission to turn the bleed screw facing "up" (still connected by the hose), then compressing the plunger (via clamp fixture), then bleed the air out of the line.
-Donny

[Vinci]

If you're just flushing, you don't need to take the cylinder loose. If you need to bleed for air, you need to take it off the bell housing and flip it upside down to get the bleeder on top.

If you take it loose to bleed, do not press the clutch pedal. You will blow out the cylinder. A pressure bleeder should be fine, though.

[zatu]

so
1. unbolt and flip so that the bleeder screw is facing the sky
2. press plunger/rod down and hold with c-clamp
3. attach one-man-bleeder hose to bleeder screw and flush until clean liquid and no air bubbles come through

[zatu]

got a chance to look under the car. There's only 1 bolt holding onto the cylinder?

[KeysCoupe]

got a chance to look under the car. There's only 1 bolt holding onto the cylinder?

There should be two; top and bottom, reletive to the cylinder body.
-Donny

[zatu]

Disassembled the slave and clamped the rod down. Bled the valve until clear liquid ran. Now all I have to do is reassemble it. Insanely tight fit, holy crap

I read on another forum that the rod has to hit dead-center against the metal plate inside the hole.

Is there a way to test that it's correctly aligned? I don't want to blow any seals and have to buy another slave T__T

Also, I lost the hex fastener nut that goes on top. Thing just disappeared. Is there a replacement I can use at autozone so I can have the car ready asap, or will I need to wait till Monday and go to the dealer?

PN 07129904002

[BimmerBreaker]

Just use reasonable judgement. Eyeball how it will fit in and try to preemptively adjust the rod so it sits on the plate. It naturally wants to sit in a position where it is aligned, its almost harder to not get it aligned correctly. What you read on the forums is the 3 guys who have trouble doing it, not the 100 who slapped it back in without a second thought

The nut is just a nut. Go bring it to your local helpful hardware folk and find one that matches

[zatu]

Slapped it on and got another nut at autozone. M8-1.25 if anyone wants to know.

Clutch pedal feels just like how I remember, when the PO first bought it

thanks everyone

[zatu]

Just use reasonable judgement. Eyeball how it will fit in and try to preemptively adjust the rod so it sits on the plate. It naturally wants to sit in a position where it is aligned, its almost harder to not get it aligned correctly. What you read on the forums is the 3 guys who have trouble doing it, not the 100 who slapped it back in without a second thought

The nut is just a nut. Go bring it to your local helpful hardware folk and find one that matches

What's the difference between flushing vs just bleeding for air?

If I were to just connect a pressure bleeder to the nipple and squeeze, wouldn't that get rid of all the air and clean out the old fluid?

Taking it off the mount and clamping the rod down gets rid of additional air or something?

[328 Power 04]

just bleeding for air would mean you had air in it, which is not normal

flushing would be to advance old fluid out, which should be done to the whole system, every 2 years, brakes included. This is because the brake fluid absorbs moisture and loses its properties.

[mpire]

just bleeding for air would mean you had air in it, which is not normal

You forgot the /s when it comes to these slave cylinders.