540i M-tech "mechanic special"

[blarf]

wow those hoses are pricey! I might just get the aftermarket hose for that.

I'm not entirely sure what RealOEM uses to come up with their prices (they don't actually sell anything, it's just a nice interface slapped on the BMW parts catalog), presumably it's just the BMW list price.

Why? I had no issues with them. I do need some water pump bolts. does anyone have a kit?

There's not enough room on there to keep a TORX bit well centered and the bolt heads seem pretty soft. Like Jim said, replace them with hex head bolts. A little box of M6 screws is cheap enough anyways. I got a box of yellow zinc coated bolts from McMaster along with some vacuum hose.

Me thinks you got lucky. The V8 does run hotter coolant wise and has 2 more cylinders.

Yeah but the valve covers themselves are shorter. The M52/54/56 valve covers are secured more securely though. Might as well pick up a cooler diesel thermostat while - but the DME will probably have to be reflashed for a 2003 if you want to pass smog.

OK now I'm starting to get annoyed with all the while your in there items. I made 4 orders this weekend at FCP and each time I thought I had everything. Now I'm seeing I need to look into the vanos oil distribution piece. I don't feel Like even looking since I will have to replace that gasket also.

FCP is expensive for BMW branded parts. Tischer or ECS are almost always cheaper.

[Jayfabs]

I'm not entirely sure what RealOEM uses to come up with their prices (they don't actually sell anything, it's just a nice interface slapped on the BMW parts catalog), presumably it's just the BMW list price.



There's not enough room on there to keep a TORX bit well centered and the bolt heads seem pretty soft. Like Jim said, replace them with hex head bolts. A little box of M6 screws is cheap enough anyways. I got a box of yellow zinc coated bolts from McMaster along with some vacuum hose.



Yeah but the valve covers themselves are shorter. The M52/54/56 valve covers are secured more securely though. Might as well pick up a cooler diesel thermostat while - but the DME will probably have to be reflashed for a 2003 if you want to pass smog.



FCP is expensive for BMW branded parts. Tischer or ECS are almost always cheaper.

I noticed RealOEM had prices but I didn't pay attention to them.

I'll look into a 6mm kit. Probably not a bad idea to have!

I have crossed checked a couple parts from FCP to ECS and FCP was cheaper. I can not remember if they were BMW brand though.

[BMW540san]

The best place to buy BMW genuine parts is mybimmerparts.com which is BMW dealer.
You have to spend $99 to get free shipping but they do not charge sales tax, at least to me in TN. If you have to buy under $99 they have a coupon which cuts shipping 50% and it becomes quite affordable.
They probably won't be the cheapest all the time but rarely I've seen it cheaper elsewhere.
They also have quite good customer service and I've bought quite a few parts in last few years.

P.S.

I strongly advise to follow JimLev advice on hex bolts instead of torx. You may not had issues but it doesn't take much to strip one of them.
I just finished oil change on 2011 BMW M3 and BMW in their infinite wisdom decided to make drain plugs in tor (yes, there are 2 of them) and one was stripped.
I do understand if manufacturer installs torx bolts if there is limited space but in this case or in M62 case, it's simply complicating something unnecesarilly.

[Jayfabs]

The best place to buy BMW genuine parts is mybimmerparts.com which is BMW dealer.
You have to spend $99 to get free shipping but they do not charge sales tax, at least to me in TN. If you have to buy under $99 they have a coupon which cuts shipping 50% and it becomes quite affordable.
They probably won't be the cheapest all the time but rarely I've seen it cheaper elsewhere.
They also have quite good customer service and I've bought quite a few parts in last few years.

P.S.

I strongly advise to follow JimLev advice on hex bolts instead of torx. You may not had issues but it doesn't take much to strip one of them.
I just finished oil change on 2011 BMW M3 and BMW in their infinite wisdom decided to make drain plugs in tor (yes, there are 2 of them) and one was stripped.
I do understand if manufacturer installs torx bolts if there is limited space but in this case or in M62 case, it's simply complicating something unnecesarilly.

I will check them out. I'm sure I will need more parts.

I just ordered a SS 6mm flange bolt kit.

[blarf]

I just ordered a SS 6mm flange bolt kit.

They're not flange bolts, just regular cap screws. I'm pretty sure you won't have room for a washer/flange.

[Jayfabs]

they're not flange bolts, just regular cap screws. I'm pretty sure you won't have room for a washer/flange.

smh

[blarf]

smh

I just used 90854A139 from McMaster-Carr. These days yellow and clear zinc are more or less the same thing though. #6713 from Bolt Depot would work too (#23456 if you want 316 stainless).

[Jayfabs]

I’m still waiting on some key items to come in but I was able to get the new valley in. I put new gaskets and o rings in the head cross over manifold in the back. The intake was fully cleaned and installed the new CCV. On the back of the CCV there is a bigger vacuum line that goes to a Y. I added a picture. The y seems to pop apart. That doesn’t seem normal.

594BF025-785F-4B70-9B97-712A6AD9E40E.jpg


80707417-F4D5-4659-AB55-219B972D8FC0.jpg

[JimLev]

The Y is the vacuum part that connects to the brake booster and to the intake tube in front of the throttle body. If you can’t fix it (glue?) get a new one.

[Jayfabs]

The Y is the vacuum part that connects to the brake booster and to the intake tube in front of the throttle body. If you can’t fix it (glue?) get a new one.

Might try the glue first. It also seems like one of the two short brake hoses that comes off the ABS unit has a leak. The paint has gone bye bye on the frame rail right there. I can see some corrosion on the fittings. Any good replacements? I believe I will have to bleed the ABS if I disconnect those. Any write ups on how to do that?

E43A2C77-B6F7-42A8-BF1C-932667523658.jpg

[JimLev]

That’s more common on an i6 than the V8. There are better braided stainless hoses available, don’t remember who sells them, FCP, ECS, or some other supplier. I’m sure someone will chime in with a link.
INPA will allow you to bleed the ABS unit. Those two flex lines go to the rear brakes so if you aren’t able to bleed the ABS you could just bleed the rear calipers.

[Jayfabs]

That’s more common on an i6 than the V8. There are better braided stainless hoses available, don’t remember who sells them, FCP, ECS, or some other supplier. I’m sure someone will chime in with a link.
INPA will allow you to bleed the ABS unit. Those two flex lines go to the rear brakes so if you aren’t able to bleed the ABS you could just bleed the rear calipers.

I need new brake rotors and pads out back so I can do them together. I found new replacements on FCP.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Yeah, get the braided steel lines from FCP, they were less than $90 for all six, you might as well change all the lines out, get much better brake feel while you are at it. I got all fancy back in October and ordered the Goodridge braided steel lines from Tire Rack for one of my wagons, had ordered new Hawk Talon rotors, ceramic pads and new Michelin AS3’s when they got phased out for the new AS4’s, smokin deal, went ahead and got the Goodridge lines even though they sell for $168. They’re a great brand name, been around forever, I use them on my motorcycles, but they are just like the $90 generic set from FCP. Problem is, as I found out, Goodridge has gotten lame in their supply vs demand chains, and was back ordered till the week before Christmas. It wasn’t like I was in dire need for replacement lines, so I said screw it, they’ll come when they come. But I did find out that this is becoming a constant trend with Goodridge.

So, they finally came, the lines look identical to the FCP lines, but ooooh, the Goodridge lines have their letter G laser etched unto the metal end couplers, but, the good part, the two lines that connect to the rear lines from the ABS box? They come with fiberglass heat shields wrapped around them, $168, yep! What a bargain. You can buy fiberglass wrap and wrap the two lines yourself for less than ten bucks, use stainless safety wire to tie down the ends. Rubber lines get dry rot on those two lines early due to BMW’s placement of the lines, right above the cats, had to be a Chris Bangle thing, that stupid moron. ECS has a set too, but you might as well take advantage of FCP’s warranty.

[Jayfabs]

Yeah, get the braided steel lines from FCP, they were less than $90 for all six, you might as well change all the lines out, get much better brake feel while you are at it. I got all fancy back in October and ordered the Goodridge braided steel lines from Tire Rack for one of my wagons, had ordered new Hawk Talon rotors, ceramic pads and new Michelin AS3’s when they got phased out for the new AS4’s, smokin deal, went ahead and got the Goodridge lines even though they sell for $168. They’re a great brand name, been around forever, I use them on my motorcycles, but they are just like the $90 generic set from FCP. Problem is, as I found out, Goodridge has gotten lame in their supply vs demand chains, and was back ordered till the week before Christmas. It wasn’t like I was in dire need for replacement lines, so I said screw it, they’ll come when they come. But I did find out that this is becoming a constant trend with Goodridge.

So, they finally came, the lines look identical to the FCP lines, but ooooh, the Goodridge lines have their letter G laser etched unto the metal end couplers, but, the good part, the two lines that connect to the rear lines from the ABS box? They come with fiberglass heat shields wrapped around them, $168, yep! What a bargain. You can buy fiberglass wrap and wrap the two lines yourself for less than ten bucks, use stainless safety wire to tie down the ends. Rubber lines get dry rot on those two lines early due to BMW’s placement of the lines, right above the cats, had to be a Chris Bangle thing, that stupid moron. ECS has a set too, but you might as well take advantage of FCP’s warranty.

Ok I found two complete kits on ECS. One is their name brand and the other is Tuner. I don't see a kit on FCP's website

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Hmmm, that’s f’d up, looks like they have phased out the Techna brake lines, how the hell are they gonna hold up to their lifetime warranty if I have a problem....

Anyway, I looked them up on ECS, they have their own kit, all six lines for $116 and change, but on backorder til Feb 4, same with the Stoptech kit, and the Goodridge kit, no surprise on that one.

[Jayfabs]

Ok I’m going to order those lines from ecs. I need help finding this o ring on the center stem of the oil filter housing. Mine was stretched out. I don’t see on part diagram.

37D35FF3-70AA-4CDB-B014-E2E7B73B0A15.jpg

[JimLev]

That center piece unscrews. Measure the OD where the o-ring fits on and then the diameter of the old o-ring. You’ll have to add a few ten’s of a mm to account for it being stretched out to figure out the correct size.
There are o-ring size charts on line that with show you the numerical size if you know the measurements.

[Jayfabs]

That center piece unscrews. Measure the OD where the o-ring fits on and then the diameter of the old o-ring. You’ll have to add a few ten’s of a mm to account for it being stretched out to figure out the correct size.
There are o-ring size charts on line that with show you the numerical size if you know the measurements.

I can do that but seems weird there is no part available.

[Jayfabs]

I started getting things back together today. I followed the GAS instructions for guides and I did the procedure again after rotating the engine 4 full rotations. Both times I could not get continuity either time on the pins. These are rebuilt vanos so they should be clean. I can feel a solid stop both directions and even tried to give it some good force and nope I can’t get continuity

I am also having a hard time finding that O-ring for the center support in the oil filter housing.


206C45DF-D608-4C5F-808B-F5B8A6BCE599.jpg

[JimLev]

Rebuilt vanos only have the 2 o-ring changed. They are not fully taken apart and cleaned so not all of them will give you a continuity reading. I don’t bother checking for it, just make sure the inner section is fully CCW against the stop and you’ll be fine.
Where did you get your rebuilt vanos from?
Just before you put the valve covers on oil up those cam lobes.

[Jayfabs]

I rebuilt them with the beisan kit. I’m sure they are fully counterclockwise. I’ll throw some assembly lube on them.

[Jayfabs]

I got most of the motor back together last night. I still have to install the jesus bolt but I might put the old bolt back in for a quick test run before I put the cooling system back together just inces there is something I missed. I need to make a tool to hold the crank. I don't want to buy that one.

[riverdadd]

When i was a kid, an old timer showed me a trick to "lock" any motor. preventing rotation. take a length of rope, feed it into a cylinder that's on its compression stroke ( Valves are closed) leaving a portion of the rope outside the cylinder. once rotated the rope prevents the assembly to turn, thus "locking" the engine. once whatever its tightened ( or loosened) simply pull out the rope.

I have used this method on may different types of engines. I find a fiber rope works better than a poly rope. hope this helps

[Jayfabs]

When i was a kid, an old timer showed me a trick to "lock" any motor. preventing rotation. take a length of rope, feed it into a cylinder that's on its compression stroke ( Valves are closed) leaving a portion of the rope outside the cylinder. once rotated the rope prevents the assembly to turn, thus "locking" the engine. once whatever its tightened ( or loosened) simply pull out the rope.

I have used this method on may different types of engines. I find a fiber rope works better than a poly rope. hope this helps

I had to think about this for a minute but yeah a rope in the spark plug hole to lock the motor should work great. I would be a little nervous to try it though.

[JimLev]

I got most of the motor back together last night. I still have to install the jesus bolt but I might put the old bolt back in for a quick test run before I put the cooling system back together just inces there is something I missed. I need to make a tool to hold the crank. I don't want to buy that one.

A long piece of 2” x 2” angle iron bolted it the crank flange with the other end on the ground would work.