540i M-tech "mechanic special"

[Jayfabs]

OK now I'm starting to get annoyed with all the while your in there items. I made 4 orders this weekend at FCP and each time I thought I had everything. Now I'm seeing I need to look into the vanos oil distribution piece. I don't feel Like even looking since I will have to replace that gasket also.

[capebmw]

Jay-there really isn't anything to the distribution piece other than the gasket and the little one way valve(sic) behind it. As was discussed, unless there is scoring inside where the 3 rings are, you can just leave them alone. It does get frustrating with all the little pieces that are part of the whole engine. It will be worth it in long run. And what else did you have to do on a sunday night but shop at FCP!!

[Jayfabs]

Jay-there really isn't anything to the distribution piece other than the gasket and the little one way valve(sic) behind it. As was discussed, unless there is scoring inside where the 3 rings are, you can just leave them alone. It does get frustrating with all the little pieces that are part of the whole engine. It will be worth it in long run. And what else did you have to do on a sunday night but shop at FCP!!

I have read about the scoring but I have to remove it to check which means an other gasket and an other shipping charge. I even contacted FCP if I could get them all combined in one shipped and they could not. ugg. I spend most of yesterday cleaning bolts i since they were dirty.

[BMW540san]

Great work so far and nice cleaning job too!
I'd suggest using silicone vacuum lines as they're not much more expensive and will last much longer than rubber and I've been using this for last 5-6 years on many different jobs and haven't had a leak since:
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/VZ-559...SABEgL_B_D_BwE

[Jayfabs]

Great work so far and nice cleaning job too!
I'd suggest using silicone vacuum lines as they're not much more expensive and will last much longer than rubber and I've been using this for last 5-6 years on many different jobs and haven't had a leak since:
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/VZ-559...SABEgL_B_D_BwE

Thanks. I did order silicone hose to replace the vacuum lines. So that is good. Did you use that on the valve cover gaskets to help seal them?

[capebmw]

A little tip I hesitate to put in writing for fear of it disappearing. Since you are in Cali-I am closer to FCP than you. I always do the "free shipping" option. I think they have a minimum for this service, but I always get my items within 3 days at the longest, even though their estimate is usually 7-10 days. Try it on something insignificant and see what happens. The shipping costs do add up, so I get it.

On another note, are you going to clear coat the timing covers per Jim's suggestion? I was thinking of doing it to mine last week but got impatient. Wondering how it would look and how durable.

I have read about the scoring but I have to remove it to check which means an other gasket and an other shipping charge. I even contacted FCP if I could get them all combined in one shipped and they could not. ugg. I spend most of yesterday cleaning bolts i since they were dirty.

[Jayfabs]

A little tip I hesitate to put in writing for fear of it disappearing. Since you are in Cali-I am closer to FCP than you. I always do the "free shipping" option. I think they have a minimum for this service, but I always get my items within 3 days at the longest, even though their estimate is usually 7-10 days. Try it on something insignificant and see what happens. The shipping costs do add up, so I get it.

On another note, are you going to clear coat the timing covers per Jim's suggestion? I was thinking of doing it to mine last week but got impatient. Wondering how it would look and how durable.

I will try that. I just wanted to get this car done.

I'm not planning on the clear for the front cover. Its been exposed for 20 years. This is going to be a driver its not perfect.

[BMW540san]

Thanks. I did order silicone hose to replace the vacuum lines. So that is good. Did you use that on the valve cover gaskets to help seal them?

Only small dabs on half moons and front section per TIS.
I agree with Philly about M62 eventually leaking no matter what you do. I believe the cause is mix of design, crappy magnesium covers and possibly VC's becoming slightly warped over time due to endless heat / cold cycles.
But in my experience this stuff outperforms Permatex.

[Jayfabs]

Only small dabs on half moons and front section per TIS.
I agree with Philly about M62 eventually leaking no matter what you do. I believe the cause is mix of design, crappy magnesium covers and possibly VC's becoming slightly warped over time due to endless heat / cold cycles.
But in my experience this stuff outperforms Permatex.

I'm worried if I get the valve covers powder coated they will warp more.

[philly98540]

Mine did not warp from the powder coating process. I had them pre-baked at 450 F, and baked for the powder coat. Still flat as new. Have them mask off the gasket grooves and inside surfaces. I did have them powder coat the outer surfaces where the oil fill cap and bolting rubber donuts go, but I carefully sanded those sealing surfaces with 600 grit after to remove the PC crinkle bumps/texture so I get a good seal. No leaks. Don't over think it, but finding a shop that knows how to prep magnesium VC's correctly is important.

I think there must be some capillary action along the casted metal surface that allows the oil to slowly seep past the rubber gasket. IMO the sealing bond eventually breaks down and the oil eventually leaks as the sealing pressure from the rubber starts to degrade when the rubber shrinks and hardens up with age. You can add some of these washers pretty easily if they start to slow leak in the future. It works and is easy to add later.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...mprove-sealing

I wonder if some of that internal engine coating stuff could be added to the insides of these covers to prevent leaks? I just be afraid of it peeling off.
https://www.eastwood.com/glyptal-red-brush-on-1-qt.html
Or something better that sprays on a flows smooth....

[MotorMouth93]

I don't think I'd use any Eastwood product inside of an engine.

[Jayfabs]

Mine did not warp from the powder coating process. I had them pre-baked at 450 F, and baked for the powder coat. Still flat as new. Have them mask off the gasket grooves and inside surfaces. I did have them powder coat the outer surfaces where the oil fill cap and bolting rubber donuts go, but I carefully sanded those sealing surfaces with 600 grit after to remove the PC crinkle bumps/texture so I get a good seal. No leaks. Don't over think it, but finding a shop that knows how to prep magnesium VC's correctly is important.

I think there must be some capillary action along the casted metal surface that allows the oil to slowly seep past the rubber gasket. IMO the sealing bond eventually breaks down and the oil eventually leaks as the sealing pressure from the rubber starts to degrade when the rubber shrinks and hardens up with age. You can add some of these washers pretty easily if they start to slow leak in the future. It works and is easy to add later.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...mprove-sealing

I wonder if some of that internal engine coating stuff could be added to the insides of these covers to prevent leaks? I just be afraid of it peeling off.
https://www.eastwood.com/glyptal-red-brush-on-1-qt.html
Or something better that sprays on a flows smooth....

I have an industrial powder coating shop I've used for years. I honestly don't think there will be an issue but you never know. These gaskets are probably just ones that will need to be replaced every now and then.

[R Shaffner]

Forgive me if this was covered already. I strongly recommend replacing the water pump while you're at it. (I've had 2 fail without warning on 2 different 540s.) And I really like my 88C thermostat. I'd add those to your list.

[MotorMouth93]

If you switch to an 88c thermostat the DME will likely need to be coded to avoid a P0128 CEL on a 2003, at least mine did. It's not too hard to DIY if you're savvy with such things.

[Jayfabs]

Forgive me if this was covered already. I strongly recommend replacing the water pump while you're at it. (I've had 2 fail without warning on 2 different 540s.) And I really like my 88C thermostat. I'd add those to your list.

I don't know how new the water pump is but it was replaced recently. It has the metal wheel. I think parts like that I rather wait on on because this is getting way more than I expected. I'm ok with spending money but in small chunks you don't notice how much you spend lol. I can easily replace external parts quick. I literally have several projects going on at a time. I always have something to work on other wise I get really bored.

[JimLev]

Jay,
Don’t bother removing the distribution unit, the check valves are behind the vanos solenoids.
You wont have any scoring on the inside of the distribution unit either. Starting in 2000 the ID where the cam rings seal to were teflon coated.

[Jayfabs]

Jay,
Don’t bother removing the distribution unit, the check valves are behind the vanos solenoids.
You wont have any scoring on the inside of the distribution unit either. Starting in 2000 the ID where the cam rings seal to were teflon coated.

Well I can confirm there is no issues with the distribution unit!! Yep I removed it and now I get to wait for more gaskets to come in. To bad fcp wasn’t as fast as Amazon. So hopefully this car will start going back together in a week or so.

[scubajim20]

Nice job on the cleaning! I agree with Cape. The free shipping didn't take as long as they stated. Funny though, I am very close to FCP as well. I did have numerous FCP orders as people kept suggesting "while you are in there". I cant emphasize how much smoother the engine runs now that everything was replaced. Sorry, I am going to do it again, replace all the gaskets from the air filter back to and including the CCV. It will make a difference on the possible cold idle issues.

[Jayfabs]

Nice job on the cleaning! I agree with Cape. The free shipping didn't take as long as they stated. Funny though, I am very close to FCP as well. I did have numerous FCP orders as people kept suggesting "while you are in there". I cant emphasize how much smoother the engine runs now that everything was replaced. Sorry, I am going to do it again, replace all the gaskets from the air filter back to and including the CCV. It will make a difference on the possible cold idle issues.

I have a throttle body gasket coming and a new CCV with gasket plus the tube front to back and gaskets for the coolant cross over on the back of heads plus gaskets for the pipes front to back and the valley plate setup. I did not get the gasket behind the throttle body plate. I got new injector O rings and intake to heads gaskets. I really need to make a complete list on the first page.

Thanks I've been cleaning for several days. Just a little at a time. It won't be perfect but I will be 95% better.

[JimLev]

While we’re helping you spend your $$$, ditch those M6 x 1.0 x 25 torx bolts the hold the CCV on and the ones on front of the manifold. Get some hex head bolts.

[Jayfabs]

While we’re helping you spend your $$$, ditch those M6 x 1.0 x 25 torx bolts the hold the CCV on and the ones on front of the manifold. Get some hex head bolts.

Why? I had no issues with them. I do need some water pump bolts. does anyone have a kit?

[JME39]

Congratulations on your purchase, you won't regret investing the time and effort. I bought a similar car (white/tan, automatic) about 2 1/2 years ago. These are just fantastic vehicles, and frankly, the automatic doesn't bother me. With the amount of torque available at lower RPMs as well as the 3.15 rear end and the way they programmed the transmission on the M-Techs, it always seems to be in the right gear and ready to pounce. And how quiet it is, good grief it is awesome, I jokingly refer to it as my bavarian decompression chamber.

I'm getting ready to send off oil for analysis, and if it looks ok I'm going to be getting into valley pan, power steering assembly, and some other things. Yes, these dudes on here know their stuff, I think we all understand that regardless of which E39 you might have, cars like these simply won't ever be made again. The lines, the solidity, the simplicity, the lack of gimmicky digital BS, just awesome.

[JimLev]

Why? I had no issues with them. I do need some water pump bolts. does anyone have a kit?

The torx hole usually strips, with a hex head it’s very easy to take the CCV off when the intake manifold in on the car.

[Jayfabs]

Congratulations on your purchase, you won't regret investing the time and effort. I bought a similar car (white/tan, automatic) about 2 1/2 years ago. These are just fantastic vehicles, and frankly, the automatic doesn't bother me. With the amount of torque available at lower RPMs as well as the 3.15 rear end and the way they programmed the transmission on the M-Techs, it always seems to be in the right gear and ready to pounce. And how quiet it is, good grief it is awesome, I jokingly refer to it as my bavarian decompression chamber.

I'm getting ready to send off oil for analysis, and if it looks ok I'm going to be getting into valley pan, power steering assembly, and some other things. Yes, these dudes on here know their stuff, I think we all understand that regardless of which E39 you might have, cars like these simply won't ever be made again. The lines, the solidity, the simplicity, the lack of gimmicky digital BS, just awesome.

Thanks. I have not even driven the car yet. Hopefully it as fun as you say it is. I did not know they were programmed different. I have and other toy car that is a stick so I still get enjoyment from that one.

If the car is clean the job wouldn't be to bad. I think I have gone through 1 1/2 boxes of gloves already.

- - - Updated - - -

The torx hole usually strips, with a hex head it’s very easy to take the CCV off when the intake manifold in on the car.

Hopefully it will not have to come off again.

[Jayfabs]

valve covers are at the powder coaters getting a wrinkle black