540i M-tech "mechanic special"

[Jayfabs]

Hey guys, I just picked up a 2003 540i M-tech with 197k as a mechanic special with chain guides being the reason. I was actually looking for a car for my son and found another car for me. I have always wanted an m5 in this body style but figured I would be happy with this car. The idea is to fix it plu other small issues and keep it as weekend car.

I have watched pretty much every video I could find on replacing the guides and how to time the valvetrain. Everything seems easy enough. I did pull the oil pan and have confirmed pieces of guide material and a loose chain. Last night I took the radiator out and removed most the items on the front of the engine. Also "Jesus bolt" who? LOL that took two seconds with a milwaukee 1/2" 18v impact.

I have ordered everything for the guides plus tools from GAS. I also ordered the vanos seals and tool from Beisan Systems. Now I am over on FCP ordering a valley pan kit/ CVV plus pipe/ oil separator/ oil pump chain. I think all in it is going to be $1500. That doesn't seem bad considering I'm doing the work but am I going overboard? Is it even worth it? I would love to get an other 50k on this motor if possible. the body is straight. I can only find one dent. There is rock chips in the front and the headlights need to be restored and there are some other items that need to be replaced but the car seems solid other than that. I know the front end has new bushings in it.


540i.jpg

[BMW540san]

Congrats on your purchase and no, you're not going overboard as long as engine is still healthy and you may want to consider rebuilding Vanos since you're there already.
Is it cost effective so you will make ton of money if you decide to sell it at some point? Probably not.
But too many people forget that as long as you have fun in process, learn a lot and enjoy the car, it's hard to put a price on that.
I will never understand people who suddenly are 70 years old and have a big collection of cars and hardly enjoyed them.
They comfort themselves with the fact they made this xxx amount of money on this and that car.
Good memories with family and cars are more important than money IMO.

[Jayfabs]

Congrats on your purchase and no, you're not going overboard as long as engine is still healthy and you may want to consider rebuilding Vanos since you're there already.
Is it cost effective so you will make ton of money if you decide to sell it at some point? Probably not.
But too many people forget that as long as you have fun in process, learn a lot and enjoy the car, it's hard to put a price on that.
I will never understand people who suddenly are 70 years old and have a big collection of cars and hardly enjoyed them.
They comfort themselves with the fact they made this xxx amount of money on this and that car.
Good memories with family and cars are more important than money IMO.

Thanks, I did buy the rebuild kit for the vanos. I do plan to enjoy this car. The only downfall I see is that it is an automatic.

[BMW540san]

Thanks, I did buy the rebuild kit for the vanos. I do plan to enjoy this car. The only downfall I see is that it is an automatic.

Well, if you really have desire, knowledge and funds, manual swap is not extremely expensive if some luck is involved.
What I mean is that crappy ad on craigslist turned into me getting healthy S52 engine and 5 speed manual combo for $2k which is quite good deal. Few other things and voila:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...swap-on-my-528

Considering that there were plenty of 540 manual produced you could keep an eye on donor car at junkyard or whereever.

[JimLev]

Welcome to the forum Jay.
$1500 in parts is fine, hope they are BMW OE parts.
Have fun replacing the vanos o-rings, hope you bought a spare teflon ring, that’s the one that first timers usually mess up.
Do you have a big well mounted vise? Pressing the vanos that last 360º will test your vise and workbench.

[Jayfabs]

Well, if you really have desire, knowledge and funds, manual swap is not extremely expensive if some luck is involved.
What I mean is that crappy ad on craigslist turned into me getting healthy S52 engine and 5 speed manual combo for $2k which is quite good deal. Few other things and voila:
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...swap-on-my-528

Considering that there were plenty of 540 manual produced you could keep an eye on donor car at junkyard or whereever.

I will have to look into that some more. I did a quick search a couple days ago ant it seemed like a lot of items! I have the skills and tools.

[Jayfabs]

Welcome to the forum Jay.
$1500 in parts is fine, hope they are BMW OE parts.
Have fun replacing the vanos o-rings, hope you bought a spare teflon ring, that’s the one that first timers usually mess up.
Do you have a big well mounted vise? Pressing the vanos that last 360º will test your vise and workbench.

Most of the parts are BMW OE I got the guide kit from GAS and they said either OE or OE suppliers. For the other parts I’m looking at they are OE.

I have a 4” Wilton attached to a 3,000lbs fabrication table. It that won’t hold I can grab some big vises at my brothers. I also have a nice impact which I could probably do the job with. I did not buy the extra seal. I feel comfortable though. Hopefully I will not need it.

- - - Updated - - -

This is about 4hrs in. The top guide is completely gone but there seems to be minimal aluminum damage on the front cover and the guide doesn’t feel to have wear in it. I’m waiting on the timing kit to come in. It’s going to take more time to clean this engine than anything.





8FCD630A-03A2-455E-8BC8-44CFA2B0452E.jpg

[BlkzhpWoG]

Nice pick up, and I agree you aren't going overboard at all. I did what you're doing about 6 years ago. Valley pan, guides, all the timing gaskets, just about every other "gasket" around there, new vanos seals and everything. It's a lot of work but none of it is particularly hard. Beisan has a great DIY procedure for all of it. I used a 4ft pipe over my breaker bar for the heavy stuff-made it easy. Breaking the torx bolts loose from the cams was actually the part that took the most force, especially considering you're counter holding it.

When you go to put it together and time it-just watch out for the "trigger wheels" that actually tell the computer if the motor is timed. I found the tools in the timing kit left a lot of wiggle room when setting them. Given the tolerance of the system, you could absolutely dial it in with the tools, but miss and get codes. Angular math helped me when that happened 10k miles after the job...

[JimLev]

I was using a 3.5” vise however after doing 8-10 vanos the lower base plate cracked, I welded it and then sold it. I then bought a 5” Wilton.
So you have a 3000lb fab table, you must be a welder?
Your impact will probably do it. Put a big washer on the bolt (with grease) that goes thru the press tool so it will be the part that gets chewed up when you are torquing it.
Pull out the vanos solenoids so you can get at the small check valves behind them, make sure they don’t have any gunk in them. They pull straight out.

Yup, cleaning always seems to take longer than the job you are doing.

[Jayfabs]

Nice pick up, and I agree you aren't going overboard at all. I did what you're doing about 6 years ago. Valley pan, guides, all the timing gaskets, just about every other "gasket" around there, new vanos seals and everything. It's a lot of work but none of it is particularly hard. Beisan has a great DIY procedure for all of it. I used a 4ft pipe over my breaker bar for the heavy stuff-made it easy. Breaking the torx bolts loose from the cams was actually the part that took the most force, especially considering you're counter holding it.

When you go to put it together and time it-just watch out for the "trigger wheels" that actually tell the computer if the motor is timed. I found the tools in the timing kit left a lot of wiggle room when setting them. Given the tolerance of the system, you could absolutely dial it in with the tools, but miss and get codes. Angular math helped me when that happened 10k miles after the job...

Thanks. It’s a bunch of stuff and I’m hoping to get years of fun with this car! My Milwaukee impact is rated at 1400ft-lbs I might try that on the Torx bolts. It makes this super easy and doesn’t really put any force in rotating the item. It took that “Jesus bolt” off and I didn’t have to hold the engine in position. Now when I put the new bolt in I will have to make a tool to hold the crank.

I’m believe your talking about the GAS tool for the trigger wheel. Should I not use those? I know the cam locks are supposed to be great. I was wondering about the cam trigger tools though.


I read through beisan’s guide. I’ll read it again.

[BlkzhpWoG]

Sorry, you should use the GAS tools (or whichever preferred timing tool set) for the trigger wheels. I was just noting that when you put them on, you'll see that it's not near as positive for setting the wheels properly as the cam blocks are for the cams (or as much as you'd expect). The trigger wheels will also bed in a little too. I didn't get any codes initially and then after about 10K I got sporadic "advanced" codes on one side. They gradually got more frequent. wasn't too hard to correct- only had to go as deep as valve covers.

[Jayfabs]

I was using a 3.5” vise however after doing 8-10 vanos the lower base plate cracked, I welded it and then sold it. I then bought a 5” Wilton.
So you have a 3000lb fab table, you must be a welder?
Your impact will probably do it. Put a big washer on the bolt (with grease) that goes thru the press tool so it will be the part that gets chewed up when you are torquing it.
Pull out the vanos solenoids so you can get at the small check valves behind them, make sure they don’t have any gunk in them. They pull straight out.

Yup, cleaning always seems to take longer than the job you are doing.

yeah I don’t know if my small vise will do but I can grab a big one. I don’t want to brake the Wilton. I like the smaller one.

Im actually a commercial electrician. I’ve just always been a gear head. Years ago I was building custom choppers for fun and extra money. I wanted to build a frame from scratch so I bought the table. It’s 6’x4’x1.5” solid steel with 1/2” holes drilled 4” on center. I do weld but learned when I was building the bikes.


I will use a washer on the tool! Thanks for the advice on the solenoids. Those are the ones sticking out the front correct?

- - - Updated - - -

Sorry, you should use the GAS tools (or whichever preferred timing tool set) for the trigger wheels. I was just noting that when you put them on, you'll see that it's not near as positive for setting the wheels properly as the cam blocks are for the cams (or as much as you'd expect). The trigger wheels will also bed in a little too. I didn't get any codes initially and then after about 10K I got sporadic "advanced" codes on one side. They gradually got more frequent. wasn't too hard to correct- only had to go as deep as valve covers.

I wonder if I just have to make sure I’m dead center of pin or sleeve the pin.

[mateo8]

my guides went out about 2k miles after buying my 540it, bent all but 2 valves in the engine, so new heads were ordered and installed... first euro car I have worked on (after a '06 wrangler and a '97 4Runner), but the BMW is on par with ease to repair as the Jeep and the 4Runner.

I got new VANOS from Dr. Vanos so I did not do this job, good luck

Definitely get the GAS tools, I have the Amazon and the GAS timing kits and the GAS are well worth the price. Welcome to the forum, good luck on your TCG job

[JimLev]

Yes, the vanos solenoids are the long cylinders sticking out with a comment or on the end.

Some vanos info (that you probably don’t need).
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...System-o-rings

Timing video
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...a-540tu-engine

[scubajim20]

Welcome, I just did my car this summer. I have the same car, color and all. I am a bit of a fanatic so I stuck with original BMW parts or OE only, where I could. I even replaced the solenoids at ~$200 each so I don't think you are going over board at all. This forum has some very knowledgeable and helpful people that where very instrumental in my rebuild. You can see JimLev right up front. I suggest you pick up a tube of Permatex #85420 gasket dressing and use it on every surface possible. The valve covers seem to be a challenge as they generally seep oil. I used the gasket dressing along with Felpro gaskets and cupped washers with the original washer and so far so good. IMO, avoid the Victor Reinz VCG. The cooling system is a weak point, start replacing all the hoses, expansion tank, bleeder valve (I bought the brass one) and cap. If your not sure how old the radiator is ( I think it should have a date stamp, s/b < 2 years) replace it. I purchased the hard cover repair manuals but I would say a rarely used them. Youtube videos where more useful. The Besian directions where excellent. Take some pictures along the way I was annoyed with remembering how wires and small vacuum hoses ran. Enjoy the adventure. My car really runs smooth and has better torque for sure.

[capebmw]

My 02 cents-Please don't cover every surface with permatex. Makes a mess and with the proper gaskets, you don't need sealant. Other than corners of the 1/2 moons on the VC and where the timing covers make 90degree turns. Maybe some gasket tack, but other than that just clean all surfaces and you will be good. The GAS timing kit is the best. It is very precise and there is no guess work. Follow their directions for assembly. The one thing I would add is that you replace the 4 Orings on the remote oil fill hoses where they attach to the engine. 2 on the hoses and I think 2 on the bracket that attaches to the engine that they are connected to. MUCH easier now when timing covers are off. And a common spot for leaks. There is also a procedure to check tension on your oil pump chain. Google it or JimL will walk you thru it. You don't mention intake manifold gaskets, or water pump. Cheap items that are on the "while your that far" list. You will have fun with this project!! I am jealous of your location. I am doing mine right now outside and there were some lovely snowflakes coming down while I was timing mine yesterday......Of course my MSport is on the lift inside waiting it's turn for this job....

[Jayfabs]

my guides went out about 2k miles after buying my 540it, bent all but 2 valves in the engine, so new heads were ordered and installed... first euro car I have worked on (after a '06 wrangler and a '97 4Runner), but the BMW is on par with ease to repair as the Jeep and the 4Runner.

I got new VANOS from Dr. Vanos so I did not do this job, good luck

Definitely get the GAS tools, I have the Amazon and the GAS timing kits and the GAS are well worth the price. Welcome to the forum, good luck on your TCG job

Thanks! The GAS kit should be here today.

That worries me a bit about the valves. I heard it run for 5 seconds when i bought it so I hope my valves are not bent. I doubt they are. I just checked last night and it doesn't look like it jumped a tooth.

- - - Updated - - -

Yes, the vanos solenoids are the long cylinders sticking out with a comment or on the end.

Some vanos info (that you probably don’t need).
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...System-o-rings

Timing video
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...a-540tu-engine

Thank you. I will check both of those out!

- - - Updated - - -

Welcome, I just did my car this summer. I have the same car, color and all. I am a bit of a fanatic so I stuck with original BMW parts or OE only, where I could. I even replaced the solenoids at ~$200 each so I don't think you are going over board at all. This forum has some very knowledgeable and helpful people that where very instrumental in my rebuild. You can see JimLev right up front. I suggest you pick up a tube of Permatex #85420 gasket dressing and use it on every surface possible. The valve covers seem to be a challenge as they generally seep oil. I used the gasket dressing along with Felpro gaskets and cupped washers with the original washer and so far so good. IMO, avoid the Victor Reinz VCG. The cooling system is a weak point, start replacing all the hoses, expansion tank, bleeder valve (I bought the brass one) and cap. If your not sure how old the radiator is ( I think it should have a date stamp, s/b < 2 years) replace it. I purchased the hard cover repair manuals but I would say a rarely used them. Youtube videos where more useful. The Besian directions where excellent. Take some pictures along the way I was annoyed with remembering how wires and small vacuum hoses ran. Enjoy the adventure. My car really runs smooth and has better torque for sure.

I know the water pump was replaced recently and it is a metal one. The radiator had lots of debri in it so I doubt it is newer. Why would I need to replace if it is not leaking? I would think that part can come out later if need be.

[Jayfabs]

My 02 cents-Please don't cover every surface with permatex. Makes a mess and with the proper gaskets, you don't need sealant. Other than corners of the 1/2 moons on the VC and where the timing covers make 90degree turns. Maybe some gasket tack, but other than that just clean all surfaces and you will be good. The GAS timing kit is the best. It is very precise and there is no guess work. Follow their directions for assembly. The one thing I would add is that you replace the 4 Orings on the remote oil fill hoses where they attach to the engine. 2 on the hoses and I think 2 on the bracket that attaches to the engine that they are connected to. MUCH easier now when timing covers are off. And a common spot for leaks. There is also a procedure to check tension on your oil pump chain. Google it or JimL will walk you thru it. You don't mention intake manifold gaskets, or water pump. Cheap items that are on the "while your that far" list. You will have fun with this project!! I am jealous of your location. I am doing mine right now outside and there were some lovely snowflakes coming down while I was timing mine yesterday......Of course my MSport is on the lift inside waiting it's turn for this job....

I typically only put permatex in the corners like suggested. I'm not sure about the 4 O'Rings your talking about. Do you have a picture? I ordered intake gaskets and the water pump is newer. I also got a new oil pump chain so I will be doing that procedure.

I'm doing this car outside and it does make it nice especially where I live. I have and other toy in the garage which is not very big just your standard two car. I wish I had a lift!

[capebmw]

Orings 10 and 15 https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_2821

- - - Updated - - -

[Jayfabs]

Yes, the vanos solenoids are the long cylinders sticking out with a comment or on the end.

Some vanos info (that you probably don’t need).
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...System-o-rings

Timing video
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...a-540tu-engine

I actually watched your videos yesterday. You did a great job!

- - - Updated - - -

Ok thanks. I will see if I can find those on FCP

- - - Updated - - -

Do I need a new CVV? I have one in the shopping cart.

[capebmw]

I actually watched your videos yesterday. You did a great job!

- - - Updated - - -

Ok thanks. I will see if I can find those on FCP

- - - Updated - - -

Do I need a new CVV? I have one in the shopping cart.

FCP usually has everything or gets it quickly. And the CCV is another thing that is easier to do with everything apart. How much oil inside your intake? That should help you determine whether or not to get the CCV parts.

- - - Updat

[Jayfabs]

FCP usually has everything or gets it quickly. And the CCV is another thing that is easier to do with everything apart. How much oil inside your intake? That should help you determine whether or not to get the CCV parts.

- - - Updat

Sorry CCV. I looked quickly last night inside the intake and didn't see puddles but my intake ports on my heads especially the driver side had a bunch of oil caked on at the top.

[Jayfabs]

I also need to find the blue strip hose and yellow strip hose that's on top of the intake. both of those were brittle. I'm not sure the part number or size?

[JimLev]

Here’s your p/n’s.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_2287

[Jayfabs]

Here’s your p/n’s.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_2287

wow those hoses are pricey! I might just get the aftermarket hose for that.