transmission pan bolts on GA6L45R

[NHinNC]

Can anyone tell me what the specs are for length, thread on the transmission pan bolts? This is the "green tag 83220397114" automatic transmission.

When following an MR2 engine rebuild thread, the instructions were to purchase Socket Hex-Drive Set Screws, washers and nuts. I plan on changing the fluid a few times, and every time screws go in and out of a metal prone to galling, there is a risk. It might be wise to use this technique on this car.

[NHinNC]

I went to the junkyard today; I was looking for a hubcap for my other car, and then found a 2008 3 series with my same transmission. I pulled a pan bolt off. It is not an aluminum bolt; magnet showed that. I had forgotten my tool bag at home, but had a 3-way socket in my car and pulled the bolt off easily, which showed how little torque is put on the bolts.
Because the bolts are not put in with much torque (7 ft-lbs spec), I will simply reuse the bolts. In my earlier life, I had worked with aluminum housings, and installed helicoils due to aluminum galling, and also worked in a bicycle shop that aluminum threads are common. It seems to me that galling only happened with high torque bolts. I do not believe that bolt replacement is necessary. I am not a mechanical engineer, so not an expert. Is anybody here an expert that can tell me why I am wrong?

- - - Updated - - -

BTW, the bolts are M6X1X25mm (including the head - perhaps M6X1 X20mm.

[NHinNC]

Did the fluid and filter change today. The DIY https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...=573490&page=3 was pretty informative; I used the pipes as in post #58 (but used a 12", not 6") to remove the oring. The slide hammer did not seem to work, so I used a hammer to rap on the tee, and the oring came out. I put the front of the car up on ramps, and jacked up the rear. It would have been good to have the car bit higher, but it was sufficient.
I used the Valvoline DexronVI, about $18 each gallon, and a Harbor Freight pump (on sale for about $6, IIRC). I cut a 15/32 hole in the cap to captivate the hose in the gallon jug. After the initial fill, I saw the gallon jug was getting sucked in, so before the final fill, using the 2nd gallon, I put a small air hole in the cap too. Have a small bucket handy, to put the hose ends into after the initial fill so you don't make a mess on the floor like I did. I reused the pan bolts.
The old fluid was pretty black. Just under 70K miles. There was not much metallic sludge on the magnet, so I was pleased with that. I think I will do a drain and refill soon.
The transmission sounds a little quieter. In the cold mornings, it did not seem to like 1st/2nd gear transition much. I hope to find that gone.

[MarcoZandrini]

Yeah, the fluid and filter need to be changed at the 50k miles. This is especially true for cars that are driven primarily in stop and go traffic. At 100k miles a full fluid exchange is recommended. The exchange uses the transmission fluid heat exchanger hoses to exchange all of the old fluid for new fluid. If you have the $ you might consider Redline D6ATF. It won’t be cheap ($13 per quart) but it’s great stuff.

[NHinNC]

Yeah, the fluid and filter need to be changed at the 50k miles. This is especially true for cars that are driven primarily in stop and go traffic. At 100k miles a full fluid exchange is recommended. The exchange uses the transmission fluid heat exchanger hoses to exchange all of the old fluid for new fluid. If you have the $ you might consider Redline D6ATF. It won’t be cheap ($13 per quart) but it’s great stuff.

Thanks for the tips.
Yep, with only 70K miles after 10 years, it must have been mostly stop and go traffic.