I have the same cover, and noticed the same issue as you.
When I put the cover on now, I pull it farther back so the tabs are actually in the trunk, not the drip rail, and tuck the cover under the drip rail. This seems to have solved the problem for me - and is a lot easier then redoing the top.
I usually avoid driving in the rain, and only noticed water in the trunk after heavy rains anyway. The cover tucked in as above has taken care of it.
Joel
I've already started the process of sewing in 2 more tabs. It's a little extra work but I'll post pics when I'm done. It's a much better design. You would think a nearly $200 cover would not have such a major design flaw.
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That headunit looks awesome! I was able to pick one up from Crutchfield which matches the rest of the dash lighting which I was very happy about, but man! I might have to pull the trigger on one of those Blaupunkts!
I agree it's a lot of fun going through a car and fixing what's been neglected or mickey-moused.
I just got done w/ My suspension (3 chapters) a few days ago and it makes OH SO MUCH of a difference.
Zed's dead baby. Zed's dead.
Wonderful. Which suspension setup did you go with?
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Here are the improvements to the cover. Soft top coverage is complete with two more straps securing the cover at the trunk lid. It should have been this way from the beginning.
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This is about to happen. Helix V Eight DSP. I have a Helix 3-way setup going in the front and one Kicker 6.5 sub for the stock sub location. I just need this rain to stop. I really could use a garage.
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A lot has happened since my last post. My interior is almost completely removed after discovering a very wet carpet. While everything is out and carpet is drying I've decided to clean up some problems, mainly broken plastic tabs.
I picked up a plastic welder at Harbor Freight today. I fixed all of my broken mounts on my glove box and trim under the steering wheel. I had no idea you could do this until I saw a video on YouTube last night. I was thinking I was going to do something similar with fiberglass but this was way easier, faster, and cleaner.
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DIY/Project Links:_TC Kline D/A & Suspension Refresh_|_Oil/Engine Cooling Options / Install_|_
Dinan/Fikse FM-5 Build_|_Stereo Install_|_HID Retrofit_|_
The harbor freight kit comes with wire mesh and plastic. It's super easy to use.
https://youtu.be/RUlbaDOnY_o
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Yeah, I wish I had known about this a long time ago.
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I have walked by that plastic welder so many times!!! Now I'm buying one!
Zed's dead baby. Zed's dead.
What is the thread title supposed to be? My first BMW and the plans? I keep reading it and thinking who the heck is Andy?
I can fix it for you just let me know what it should have said
Going into my TENTH YEAR of providing high quality reproduction BMW fabrics!
PRICE CUT on ALL FABRICS
Offering the best prices on the best quality reproduction fabrics!
DIY/Project Links:_TC Kline D/A & Suspension Refresh_|_Oil/Engine Cooling Options / Install_|_
Dinan/Fikse FM-5 Build_|_Stereo Install_|_HID Retrofit_|_
What kind of silicone was that -- was it this flowable sealer?
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8173.../dp/B000BKEBO0
How did you apply it -- just relax the top a bit, slip your hand down past the body, and put the tip of the tube on the sealing frame?
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
Well this is embarrassing. I can't remember exactly what sealant I used. I got it off the shelf at Home depot. It wasn't anything too special. It was on the more expensive side. Around $8-10. I just tried to find the most extreme silicon caulk I could find. I think it said it could even be applied to wet surfaces.
As far as application, I only cut the tip off leaving a smaller hole, but a thin tip. I relaxed the top slightly and removed the top rubber seal. The area you want to focus on is not the side that touches the convertible top. It's between the sealing frame and the trunk. Jam the tip of the caulk as far in the crack as you can between the trunk lid and the top of the sealing frame. Be careful because if your sealing frame is too brittle you could break it. You put a decent amount of pressure on the sealing frame where the top rubber seal sits. Then just dump in as much caulking as you can.
I'm positive that whoever replaces my convertible top in the future will reveal my silicon job and think I'm an idiot. It's not the right way to fix this leak at all, but it worked... at least for now...
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Something like this. I used a whole 10 Oz tube. More is always better right?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Ultr...8388/306389477
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Well, I'm done with the physical installation of my sound system. I need to tweek the subwoofer box, eventually figure out how to fasten the broken lid, clean up the wiring in the trunk, then figure out how to reinstall the carpet in the right side around the amp.
I also have a lot of playing around to do with the DSP, which is something I have never done before. So far I only have the crossovers set so nothing goes boom. I have a long way to go to tune everything and get the sound right. I have a lot of learning to do with this one. I'll throw some pictures up here. I think I'll start a new thread on all the specifics for more details.
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Nice work dude...I’m living vicariously through you right now (no time to get out and work on the z these days...)
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1%er here. I’ve had to remove the original Velcro and sew new back on after it quit holding. It looks like the trunk carpet should be close to fitting around the amp. You may want to consider future access but once you get it adjusted hopefully you won’t need to touch it again. If you can’t get the lid back on the sub you can always swap in a 8” and problems solved.
There are no adjustments on the amp. Everything is digital through a laptop. But yes, it may be hard to fit the carpet around it. I will most likely have to cut the top of the carpet leaving a part of the amp peaking out. I'm not too worried about it. I'm not trying to get this thing to a full original restoration.
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