My driverside window on my 94 325i convertible moves up and down in about 1 inch increments. Motor seams to move swiftly when it is moving and doesn't sound like it's dragging or scraping on anything. Based on my electrical knowledge from school it sounds like an issue with increased resistance, maybe bad wires or just a heavily worn motor? Not sure if it's anything else. Pretty new to BMWs
If you do a quick search of the issue on the forums you might come up with a couple people with a similar issue.
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Your window is lost.
When you operate the window switch, you should notice that it has a detent (click) in the middle of its travel. Before the click is manual operation of the window, after the click is automatic operation (the window goes to full up or full down without you touching the switch again). You should experiment with the feel of the switch with the power off.
Put the window full down. Then using the switch before the detent, hold the manual mode until the window goes to full up. The window control needs to know where the window is so that it will move to full up or full down, otherwise it goes an inch or so. Be sure you move the window with the switch before the detent so that it moves manually to the bottom, then repeat until it gets to the top. The window control counts how far it has to go to get to full up, and if there is a current rise in the future that happens before the count value is reached, the control assumes an obstruction (child) and the window reverses direction.
I thought you'd also have to press the button completely (automatic operation) for 5 seconds once it is fully up and down using manual operation. At least in some other cars it works that way and I've done it that way in the e36 and it always worked.
After long bouts of research, the best I have narrowed this down to is a worn microswitch in the motor/gear assembly. These early cars do not have a body module and the function is controlled within the motor. After hours of analysis of the operation, it seems when it only moves in small increments, the motor interprets the button press as a door open signal and does the comfort close operation. On mine, the malfunction is intermittent. It will work fine for several days then start the inch-by-inch thing, then go back to normal after a few days. Anyway, I've been told the only fix is a new motor and the early ones aren't cheap.
Edit; 94 I think was the first model year with a body module. Try JD's solution, but none of the little "reset" operations worked for my 93.
Last edited by h82crash; 01-05-2021 at 10:51 AM.
Tom
Currently 1995 M3 manual coupe, 1993 325is
Past cars
2003 530i
1998 528i
1995 530i
1988 528e
1988 535i
1987 2.7i
1972 2002
if there's no microcontroller, then you have too much friction in the guides. There's rubber channels lined with felting that's likely worn off to bare rubber, causing too much friction for the window motor to overcome. Could also be kinked/jammed, or the regulator arms could be bent slightly causing binding.
You need to take the door panels off and get your hands in there to find out which is the issue.
A temporary fix may be spraying the guides with silicone or dry graphite lube.
When this happened to me I had to replace the electric motor and it fixed it.
I asked a guy at a shop a while ago about an similar issue with a right rear window on my E46 cabrio. He said the same thing about the guides and too much friction. Difference with that one and the E36 - it wasn't going up partially and stopping, as is what I am also seeing on my E36 coupe. It was just making a lot of noise and going up/down slowly. For the E36, I think that the motor might be getting worn/not being in the best shape due to friction and/or age. It's not consistent and mildly annoying. I have noticed many times the guides/track get dried out and aren't smooth, with dried-out grey lubricant. I normally replace the two plastic guides and metal clips.
'86 E30 325i coupe, euro
'94 E36 318is coupe (Undergoing M52B28 swap)
'95 E36 325i sedan
'97 E36 328is coupe
'83 Porsche 944
'11 E90 328i sedan (soon)
'18 F31 330i touring
Check the positioning of the magnet on the motor shaft. Move up the shaft to the sensor
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