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Thread: Bad mass air flow sensor

  1. #1
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    Bad mass air flow sensor

    Hi all. Long time since I’ve checked in. This afternoon my car started to shut the engine down a every time I came to a stop. It started up easily enough and I was able to get home but I checked the code which was P0101 or bad MAF. It said the best remedy was to replace. So, my question is should I buy the OEM MAF or maybe a slightly less expensive one from continental etc. my gut says OEM, but I wanted to get some input from the forum members.

    Thank you in advance

    K.
    TC KLINE FULL EXTERIOR ADJUST KONI shocks with H&R sport springs. ECIS intake, Stromung Exhaust, RE clutch stop, JTD underpanel.

  2. #2
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    Before you plunk down your hard earned cash for a new MAF that may or may not fix your problem, do some basic troubleshooting.

    1. Don’t bother cleaning the MAF as it doesn’t help.
    2. Check the connector at the MAF to make sure the male pins (on the MAF) and the female sockets (in the engine harness) are clean and tight. Cleaning both sides of the connector with some electrical contact cleaner wouldn’t hurt.
    3. Get the OBDFusion app for your smartphone or tablet. Then search this forum for threads on OBDFusion as you’ll need a communications adapter that plugs into the obd2 port under the dash. Read up on how to use it. It’s a very capable app.
    4. Once you have the app and the adapter, check the short and long fuel trims and the MAF data (set the app up to read grams/second). Your profile doesn’t say which model and engine your have. Typically the MAF ob a 3 liter engine will show ~3.7 grams/second of air at normal idle.
    5. Check the throttle body and the idle control valve for cleanliness. The idle control valve is responsible for engine speeds up to about 1700rpm.
    6. The only MAF to buy is one made by the supplier to BMW.

  3. #3
    dworthy's Avatar
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    +1

    Also to add, VDO or Seimens is typically the OE provider for that part.

    Sometimes vacuum leaks can kick that code up too, so take a look at the big black rubber boot that goes from the MAF to the throttle body for any cracks, rips or tears.
    Darin
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  4. #4
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    And in the future, if you're going to post a code, always post the description of the code, word for word. Otherwise it's just useless numbers. It will definitely help those more experienced help you get to the root of the problem.
    ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician

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    Quote Originally Posted by checkflag View Post
    Hi all. Long time since I’ve checked in. This afternoon my car started to shut the engine down a every time I came to a stop. It started up easily enough and I was able to get home but I checked the code which was P0101 or bad MAF. It said the best remedy was to replace. So, my question is should I buy the OEM MAF or maybe a slightly less expensive one from continental etc. my gut says OEM, but I wanted to get some input from the forum members.

    Thank you in advance

    K.
    What y/m vehicle?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

    Same thing that will make you smile will make you cry. Was that a piston?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by H3adBussa View Post
    What y/m vehicle?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    99 m3 s52.
    TC KLINE FULL EXTERIOR ADJUST KONI shocks with H&R sport springs. ECIS intake, Stromung Exhaust, RE clutch stop, JTD underpanel.

  7. #7
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    I should also add that for a few days before the failure of the he MAF when I started the engine it revved pretty high for a minute or so and that has never happened before. Thanks for all the advice. I will check those things that were mentioned before I go and buy a new one. Again, thank you.
    TC KLINE FULL EXTERIOR ADJUST KONI shocks with H&R sport springs. ECIS intake, Stromung Exhaust, RE clutch stop, JTD underpanel.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by White94RX View Post
    And in the future, if you're going to post a code, always post the description of the code, word for word. Otherwise it's just useless numbers. It will definitely help those more experienced help you get to the root of the problem.
    P0101 Mass or Volume airflow sensor "A" circuit range/performance.
    TC KLINE FULL EXTERIOR ADJUST KONI shocks with H&R sport springs. ECIS intake, Stromung Exhaust, RE clutch stop, JTD underpanel.

  9. #9
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    Get the OBDFusion app and a communications adapter so that you can see what the MAF us doing. Most of us bought a VeePeak adapter (I have the WiFi version) from Amazon. Make sure it sez “fulfilled by Amazon.” Then set up the app so that the MAF reading is in grams per second (g/s).

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarcoZandrini View Post
    Get the OBDFusion app and a communications adapter so that you can see what the MAF us doing. Most of us bought a VeePeak adapter (I have the WiFi version) from Amazon. Make sure it sez “fulfilled by Amazon.” Then set up the app so that the MAF reading is in grams per second (g/s).
    I have the BlueDriver, is this system better?
    TC KLINE FULL EXTERIOR ADJUST KONI shocks with H&R sport springs. ECIS intake, Stromung Exhaust, RE clutch stop, JTD underpanel.

  11. #11
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    Can Blue Driver show you how many grams/second of air is gong through the MAF? iTunes’ description is a little shirt on details.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarcoZandrini View Post
    Can Blue Driver show you how many grams/second of air is gong through the MAF? iTunes’ description is a little shirt on details.
    No, just the code. VeePeak ordered, app downloaded, please stand by for
    update in a few days. Thank you for your help, hope you had a nice Thanksgiving.
    TC KLINE FULL EXTERIOR ADJUST KONI shocks with H&R sport springs. ECIS intake, Stromung Exhaust, RE clutch stop, JTD underpanel.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarcoZandrini View Post
    Get the OBDFusion app and a communications adapter so that you can see what the MAF us doing. Most of us bought a VeePeak adapter (I have the WiFi version) from Amazon. Make sure it sez “fulfilled by Amazon.” Then set up the app so that the MAF reading is in grams per second (g/s).
    The Bluedriver shows at 2600 rpm the MAF rate to be 1.7lb per minute. (1.6 - 4.3lb) I will retest it with the VeePeak on thursday and see it that is more accurate.
    TC KLINE FULL EXTERIOR ADJUST KONI shocks with H&R sport springs. ECIS intake, Stromung Exhaust, RE clutch stop, JTD underpanel.

  14. #14
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    what does it read at idle? no accessories on.....
    can it read g/s? if not, everyone - don't forget to convert....
    '95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by shadowpuck View Post
    what does it read at idle? no accessories on.....
    can it read g/s? if not, everyone - don't forget to convert....
    that is impossible to acquiesce. If it idles it stalls. That’s the whole problem you see.
    TC KLINE FULL EXTERIOR ADJUST KONI shocks with H&R sport springs. ECIS intake, Stromung Exhaust, RE clutch stop, JTD underpanel.

  16. #16
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    ok - have you checked the hoses that go to/from the idle air control valve and the intake manifold?
    '95 325iS - auto to manual swap done!

  17. #17
    dworthy's Avatar
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    Smoke test time IMO.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
    Past:
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    84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
    91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
    82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
    79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by checkflag View Post
    I should also add that for a few days before the failure of the he MAF when I started the engine it revved pretty high for a minute or so and that has never happened before. Thanks for all the advice. I will check those things that were mentioned before I go and buy a new one. Again, thank you.
    AIR is the only thing that can increase engine speed. So, unless a faulty idle control valve I'd be looking for a vacuum leak, a big one if it won't idle. MAF ain't the trouble here.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  19. #19
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    Sorry for the absence, I can’t stand when fix it threads are left inconclusive. It was the idle
    control valve hose. It had a crack and was no longer affixed to MAF. I replaced it but attached it
    to the incorrect nib ����*♂️. Had my mechanic make a house call yesterday and he rerouted the hose
    and now all is good. Didn’t have to replace MAF thankfully so I’m grateful I spoke up and was
    educated here before I wasted $$ on an MAF I didn’t need. I thank you all.
    TC KLINE FULL EXTERIOR ADJUST KONI shocks with H&R sport springs. ECIS intake, Stromung Exhaust, RE clutch stop, JTD underpanel.

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