Quick update, Gripforce delivered yesterday, pic and a link to the kit below
https://gripforceclutches.com/fx-sta...8i-e39-z3-m52/
pic keeps flipping. will post from my phone
Last edited by solimans; 12-01-2020 at 07:39 PM.
Balance the flywheel and PP together. I didn't. I'm taking mine apart again soon. Cost to balance ... about $75. Value of the job to take it apart ... $300+ ... plus the $75...
Why are you taking it back apart?
I have balanced several. The flywheel has always been perfect. It's the pressure plate that is out. None have been bad enough to have worried about, I quit checking. So if you do balance, do the flywheel first, then the flywheel and p/p as an assembly.
On a related note, I got to do side by side comparison of a stage 1 and stage 2 pressure plate. The stage 2 has a quicker action and higher force is required. How much to translates into added clamping load I can't say.
/.randy
[QUOTE=rf900rkw;30600580]Why are you taking it back apart?
I have a vibration that is exactly correlated to engine rpm. (It was smooth as silk before the clutch job: JB flywheel, stock Sachs PP/sprung hub disc) It's always there, regardless of rpm, being stationary or going 60 mph. I can feel it in the whole car, and in the clutch pedal when I push, and in the shifter when traveling down the road. I've looked it over and don't see any other possible reasons, like mounts. I don't know what else to do but take it apart and get the flywheel/PP assembly balanced. I assume the advantage of doing the flywheel first by itself is that it will be balanced for any future PPs.
Last edited by zellamay; 12-02-2020 at 01:01 AM.
I can't imagine a JB being that far out of balance. Never actually checked one, but that's just not something I would expect.
Over the years I have seen two cars with a rotating vibration like you describe; one Z3M, one E46. In both instances the flywheel had been installed incorrectly. There is a locating dowel for the flywheel in the crank, coaxial to one of the bolts. The flywheel has one bolt hole that is slightly larger to pilot onto this dowel. In both cases it appears they just slapped the flywheel in without clocking it and nailed the bolts down, crushing the dowel almost flat. Amazingly they didn't shake nearly as much as I would have thought.
I take it from the price quoting you're not doing the work yourself. That will make catching and proving such a thing did or did not happen difficult.
And yes, the idea of checking the flywheel separately is to have it zero for the next clutch. But in reality, flywheels rarely come out of a worn/failed clutch unscathed.
Last edited by rf900rkw; 12-02-2020 at 10:08 AM.
/.randy
Thanks for the warning about flywheel clocking. I'll check it out at disassembly. I will be doing the work myself. I installed it, so if it's wrong, it's on me. I did know about the dowel pin, so I don't think I did it wrong, but I've made mistakes before. The $300 labor number was just a guess. I think I got that number somewhere, but not sure.
Just some additional info...
My local Indy also says they don’t balance...never have issues stock or aftermarket
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Yea, and I used to agree. I've done 2 complete clutch jobs before this one, didn't balance either one, so I didn't this time. I'll report whatever I learn.
There's a little more to the story (there always is). I bought the flywheel as part of a complete kit from a guy who had put it in his car, hated it, and took it out immediately. (He had a solid-hub disc. I sold the disc and PP, kept the flywheel). I assumed it was gear rattle that he hated. I didn't know enough back then to ask the right questions (and, to be honest, was excited about a smokin' deal). Maybe it was a balance problem. We'll see.....
Last edited by zellamay; 12-02-2020 at 03:01 PM.
I hear that. Do update.
I’m not having any luck finding anyone that will do a balance.
What kind of shop does this?
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Any hotrod / race machine shop should have a balancer. Being an inline six cylinder, we take a neutral balance. easy peasy.
/.randy
Could you be so kind as to measure the step on that SAC flywheel? I thought I had that number somewhere.... but no can find now.
And as an aside, I'll see your shiny new parts and raise you 50000 miles of boosted hooliganism.
IMG_20201203_083606696.jpg
Not pictured is the shredded center support bearing. And a clicky u-joint.
/.randy
Mostly used up. But even at the point, it wasn't causing any issues. And to think people panic over light cracking in the outer skin.
/.randy
Not sure I got it. From top pic to bottom. Let me know if you need something different.
26mm
37mm
12mm
7mm
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That flexdisk looks like road kill
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Thanks. I should have been more specific. The step is the distance from the clutch surface to the pressure plate mount surface. It needs to be measured with a depth mic to within a couple of thousands.
/.randy
Roger that. Don’t own a depth mic, unfortunately
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If I find a shop that’ll balance, I’ll have them measure it
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Don't go out of the way for this. I will get a chance to get the number again. The early up through the M/S52 is 0.125". The SAC is close to an inch, as you show, and I'm remembering the number is more convenient in metric. 24mm?
/.randy
Hey Solimans! Got it in yet?
‘98 Z3 2.8 roadster, Montrealblau/tan 5sp, M50 manifold, AFE intake, SuperSprint catback, Bilsteins, BAVAuto sport springs, Style 42 BBS
All parts have arrived. Now I just need to get over my procrastination (fear and pick a weekend...without rain. We get rain in the winter months.
Going to put this bad boy in out on the driveway...garage space is too tight.
You know I’m going to get lots of pics!
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Hey Solimans, any update??
‘98 Z3 2.8 roadster, Montrealblau/tan 5sp, M50 manifold, AFE intake, SuperSprint catback, Bilsteins, BAVAuto sport springs, Style 42 BBS
Got caught up with the holidays and traveled a bit to visit family. Back now and champing at the bit to get this in! Shooting for this month
Happy new year!
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