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I have just recently purchased a 1999 328i--and I am madly in love. It drives like a sports car and I love driving a stick. It has 254k kilometers(or 157k miles, it's a German spec model) on the odometer. I live in Germany right now(I'm an American), and I was hoping I could get some advice since this is my first Bimmer:
1- What is the best synthetic oil to use? Also, for regular driving(including 140-150 mph stints on the Autobahn) what is a good change interval? It's a regular climate here near Ramstein AFB, nothing out of the ordinary. I have researched 5W-30 versions of Mobil 1 Euro, Royal Purple HPS and Amsoil. I don't mind spending the money, my concern is getting as many miles as possible out of this car.
2- I want to upgrade my audio system. I do not have the Harmon-Kardon system, and there are only 2 speakers in my front door(nothing in the rear doors). Nothing overly fancy, just replacing the 6 speakers( 2 in front door and 2 in the back deck), the head unit, possibly a small subwoofer, and a really good multi-channel amplifier. What is a good amp brand to use and what is a decent way to add a subwoofer without filling my trunk with a box?
Thanks for any input, I am glad to have joined the family.
shade tree mechanic
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Moved to E36 forum.
your vehicle Fabricat BMW (EU) Model 3er-Serie, E36 (1990-2001) Type 328i (1994 - 1999)
In Germany Ravenol is very popular and reasonable prices, 5W30 is fine, summer 15W40, volume 6.5 liters, change interval: according to the BMW service interval info in the cluster check control
complete oil guide from Ravenol for all fluids on your E36, including transmission https://www.ravenol.de/en/oil-guide/...12b22f08036a00
here you have a English user manual for the E36 for download http://www.e36.lt/docs/E36_Owners_Manual.pdf
see page 126. There it is shown 5W30 in cold climate, 15W40 for warmer temps.If you use SAE 15W-40 engine oil in low temperatures below 145F (-10 6) the engine may become difficult to start.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
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Use a "full" synthetic brand, if your winters are fairly harsh use a 5w-40 year round, if your winters are mild (above 20F) then use a 10w-40. Don't use 30w oil.
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Ravenol has 5 different 5w-40's to choose from, I'd go with this one.
https://www.ravenol.de/en/applicatio...hcs-sae-5w-40/
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What is the best synthetic oil? Ask 10 people with 10 different results.
Solution? Go to Walmart, Get Castrol Synthetic 0W-40 or 5W-40 and change it every 3K, you can't go wrong. About $22-25 5 quarts.
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Can you recommend a good brand of brake pad/rotor for me? Or should I go to the dealership?
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The dealer would be super expensive. In the US we have RockAuto online that has a very large selection. You can now get rotors that are coated so they don't rust. Have you found any good online stores for car parts over there? Akebono is an excellent brand for pads. Don't forget flushing the brake fluid DOT4 LV, Pentosin or ATE.
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1. Schmeidmann is a German based parts supplier that has a decent amount of aftermarket parts as well. Engine isn't too picky with oil and a 5W40 or 10W40 can be used all year round, and full synthetic will do.
2. More than likely the stock speakers have rotted away as they are simple paper cone. Replace all except tweeters with a modern equivalent name brand. The most noticeable difference will be a subwoofer. A 10" or 8" will bump good enough, you don't need 1000+ RMS watt system. Something 300rms paired with compatible sub. A modern headunit will have a built in crossover, I like Pioneer HUs. Replacing the main amp will give you the least return, I wouldn't waste the time or money.
Since you're at RAFB ask around for shops that people prefer. Someone has probably been in your situation for 30+ years and I bet there are many good shops around to assist. I am not sure the level of DIY you're able to do, as I know Germany is a bit stricter than US.
Vielen Glucke!
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Amsoil all the way, I change my oil once a year or 15k miles and my 323is just passed 225k on the odometer
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do you have a link to some replacement modern speakers for the e36 that replace the stock ones and don't need any modification on the car?Originally Posted by ZEKTI
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If you’re US based cruthfield.com will show you sizes and offer products. None of their products are poor so betting is good.
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i'm in canada but thanks, will look into it.
edit: for the rear it brings up square shaped ones, and even some with three mounting holes. i thought the stock shape is oval.
Last edited by importbanana; 11-21-2020 at 07:04 PM.
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If you're driving at 150 mph I suggest that you check to see if suspension has been overhauled recently. Ditto with brakes. In Germany obey all traffic rules and stay to the right unless passing and use your signals.
You can probably find cheaper Pentosin there, but you can't go wrong with that or Motul, Castrol, Total. You probably want 5w-40. Do an oil analysis with TBN if you want an informed analysis on oil change intervals. Modern synthetics will last at least 8k miles but depends on how severe your driving style is. Also you may want to change the oil filter in between. Btw, you might have an early e46. Guten abend!
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just get castrol, shell or whatever brand you like 5w40 from the next store, change every 10k km (6213 miles) and forget about it.
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Thanks for the suspension info-I am looking at replacing the shocks with HD Bilsteins, and of course, the front brakes(pads & rotors) are to be done soon. Would it behoove me to get anything drilled and/or slotted, or just get a good heavy duty rotor? Any other suspension bits I should be concerned with? Also, I'm not sure why the system said I have an E36, I thought it was an E46 too.
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Billy HDs are good. Stick with plain rotors unless you like cracks and vibrationsInspect all the bushings and ball joints. Chances are you will probably need to replaced fcabs, rtabs, center diff bushing, and maybe the tie rods if you have sloppy steering. Also get new bump stops. Dino oil is fine too so don't sweat it as long as you change oil and filter regularly. Also check motor and trans mounts for cracks. If you want to get further into the weeds you can replace shifter bushings.
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The car is limited by computer program to about 128 mph, EU spec cars might be higher, but I cannot imagine that it will be as high as 140 to 150 mph, and 140 to 150 kph is not even breaking a sweat for this car. This works out to, what, about 100? Having been to Germany, as a tourist, driving faster than about 110 mph is pretty rare. You are asking about running at Redline and that's never a good idea. The euro spec of oil is ACEA, which is similar to the SAE, and the oil grade you want will be A3/B3, and 10w30 or 10w40 will be fine. If you have a snow season, then maybe a 5w30 is the right choice. I found in 20 years of driving an E36 is that the car does a very good job of counting the iol change intervals. There is an Oil Change, then Service Interval 1, then an oil change, then Service Interval 2, then repeat.
For the speakers, two in the top of the door above the door handles are your mid range and tweeters, you should have two bass speakers in the kick panels on the sides of the foot wells. Look at the A Pillar where the door hinges are, just inches forward of the pillar should be a speaker. The location of the factory radio amplifier is on the inside of the trunk on the left fender. You have to remove the trunk liner from the left fender, the amp is mounted in the area of the C Pillar, just to the rear of the seat back. In the US spec cars, I think all of them have 10 speakers (the bass speakers in the driver and passenger foot wells, the mid-range and tweeters in the doors, and a set of mid-range) and they are all driven by the amp that is located in the trunk. There is also the Harmon Karden that gets another pair of bass speakers and a better amp that is speed adjustable, and that you said you do not have. The 6-speaker system was used in early production
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I would not recommend the dealership for anything. Use www.realoem.com to find the factory part numbers for whatever you want, then plug them into eBay or whatever site you like and get your stuff online. You will need nylon clippy things to hold the door panels on some day and these might only be available from the dealership, but any "normal" consumable service part is readily available on the open market. There are several that specialize in BMW parts, FCPEuro is one, AutohausAZ is another, but my experience is that you can usually go to the corner Oreilley's or AutoZone, or equivalent and get quality parts.
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My car is Euro-spec car(not sure what all that entails), but I have had this car as high as 245 kph(on a slight downhill grade) and I regularly get it up to 235-240 kph. It is a 5 spd stick, so I'm not sure if that makes much difference. It's all stock as far as I know.
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In general euro cars, especially newer models, are often limited at 155mph/250kph but the euro e36 are not limited if i'm correct. 328i e36 can do almost 155mph/250kph on a good day.
I still don't quite understand if you own a e36 or a e46. Pics?
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Nov 2020 091.jpgNov 2020 093.jpgNov 2020 094.jpgNov 2020 092.jpg
Help me out here-if I'm reading the original paperwork correctly, the car was produced in April 1999. This is it by the way.
Last edited by huntfortravel; 11-24-2020 at 06:27 AM. Reason: edit picture
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It's an e46 and therefore you're in the wrong subforum.
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Thank you.
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Too funny, later!
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That's an E46. The driver side door jamb should have a data plate attached that gives the VIN and the production date, Month and Year.
Last edited by JDStrickland; 11-26-2020 at 01:34 PM.
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