2002 BMW M3 – Build Thread, From the Grave

[dworthy]

I would just replace the power steering reservoir, as there is a filter built into that cannot be cleaned or replaces. Another suggestion is to take the high pressure lines to an Airfield, for most of them will have a hydraulic machine shop that can replace those lines for less then half the cost of a new one normally.

[flemm2]

I would just replace the power steering reservoir, as there is a filter built into that cannot be cleaned or replaces. Another suggestion is to take the high pressure lines to an Airfield, for most of them will have a hydraulic machine shop that can replace those lines for less then half the cost of a new one normally.

I did order a new reservoir after taking a closer look inside and finding the integrated plate/filter at the bottom. And good idea man, didn't think of that. I'm afraid they're going to leak after cleaning, but I've been hesitant to buy all new ones. Silly expensive.

Not sure what an Airfield is though? I'll call some local machine shops.

[dworthy]

An Airfield is also an Airport, most of regional airports are call airfields.

[flemm2]

An Airfield is also an Airport, most of regional airports are call airfields.

Haha, oh literally. I gotcha. Thanks d, I'll let you know what I find.

[Braymond141]

But no, I'm not good with it at all.. still working out a path forward. I'll get it sorted out. I don't want a color match if it's not the genuine color is the thing. I might hold off for now on the paint and finish the rest of the car.

I hope you get it resolved.

Update –

Started on the front/rear suspension and steering. Dropped the subframe and removed the power steering stuff (it was disgusting).

• Cleaned up the power steering rack, reservoir, hoses, etc. I'll reuse all the power steering hoses for now; if they're leaky after I reinstall/test, I'll replace them.
• Removed rust and refurbished the subframe
• Removed the larger wheel arch liners and other trim pieces currently off the car; cleaned them up and visually inspected inspected
• Cleaned up the washer fluid reservoir and pumps; cleaned and visually inspected the pump gaskets; tested pump functionality; removed the headlight washer fluid lines and nozzles (from the headlight mounting bracket)
• Cleaned up the horn assembly
• Removed the halo/angel eye jank wiring that was causing short circuit faults
• Um... I'm starting to lose track a bit. I think that's it.

Noting: "Cleaned up" – degreased or washed with mild soap/water and rinsed. Inspected for damage. Metal parts wire brushed, rust removed (chemically, as applicable, fortunately, there's not much rust on the car) and plastic stuff brushed/rinsed, welded (as appropriate), and treated. Electrical contacts, sockets, and housings, brushed, rinsed, and sprayed with IPA; housing gaskets inspected. All that is 'as applicable'.

Waiting for some hardware to come in, oh, and I forget to order the steering flex joint, so waiting on that too. I'll get everything reinstalled and do a test run before proceeding with the rear axle stuff. Rear bushes and hardware is starting to arrive. Still need to get a parts list together for servicing the differential seals/gaskets and doing a drain refill. Need a parts list for the drive axles too, should just be boots and hardware (diff. flange to drive axles and driveshaft to diff.). I'll do the rest of the driveshaft ('guibo’/flex-disc, center bearing, etc.) when the engine/trans comes out.

• Thinking about swapping in a BMW motorsport ring and pinion set too, what final drive, though? Still working that out. Any thoughts in general welcome

I really suck at taking good pictures.

https://ibb.co/album/0pSBKf


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Those bolts you wire brushed will rust immediately as-is. Were you planning to have the original ZNS3 reapplied or at the very least traditional zinc plating?

[flemm2]

I hope you get it resolved.


Those bolts you wire brushed will rust immediately as-is. Were you planning to have the original ZNS3 reapplied or at the very least traditional zinc plating?

Thanks man. Visited the collision shop last week to drop a couple small things off (outside mirrors/mirror coverings, trunk grip trim, and 'under' headlight coverings) and to discuss the paint situation. I do trust these guys - but would love to see another E46 M3 in Topaz Blue Metallic in person (highly doubt there's one local, but I'm willing to drive. PM/message me on Instagram! Pictures may suffice).

Path forward - when I take the car in for them to repair the roof they're going to gauge it (flatness, between areas of 'what appears to be original paint', i.e., under the glass trim, to 'looks a little to different to just be a result of aging/poor maintenance') and check if variation exists. Apparently, if it varies even 5-6 mils it's safe to assume it's been repainted. So, leaves two options (in my mind)

1. If it's not original/the car was repainted (and poorly, would also explain the clear coat issues) - I'll have to bend and fork it out to get the car repainted back to original/bmw certified. Won't have it any other way.

2. If it's just faded due to aging/poor maintenance - they'll do the front/rear bumper again and take it a shade or two darker (i.e., match, but not really a match? I guess BMW uses a different approach. Let me know if you want details). Roof, mirrors, misc. trims I've replaced will also be redone to match. And obviously anything they don't repair/refinish will be at least compounded, maybe sanded - TBD (will need to mess around with some different compounds and check results).

And eh, we'll see. I use a corrosion inhibitor. Never had any issues with rust (I live in a really dry place).

But regardless, I'm replacing all the hardware (front/rear axle stuff) in a later phase of the rebuild/build. Any hardware that's COTS will be Zn-Al or zinc yellow-chromate.

[flemm2]

Hey hey –

Got the front/axle (listed below) stuff finished over the break/holiday.

• Finished the subframe refurbish
• Replaced the control arms, control arm bushings/brackets. Getting the new bushes/brackets onto the control arms was a significant pain (w/o a puller). I couldn’t slide the left bushing/bracket on far enough (to spec, 299 mm +/- 2 mm .. ) just using soapy water and a heavy mallet. Ordered a press tool from @ECSTuning, so I will finish that off when it arrives.
• Cleaned up the headlight aim control sensor
• Installed front coilovers and rear spring/struts and replaced the mounting gaskets and upper/lower spring pads in the rear. I was told by @BCRacing that everything to install (BR Series coilovers) was included .. gaskets were not included and the springs in the rear had an excessive amount of play (freedom to shift/move around) w/o the OEM spring pads (lower control arm pad and upper pad) installed. Need to call them again to verify .. upper/lower pads were provided by BC Racing, but they seem to be designed to work in conjunction with the OEM spring pads (fit perfectly)
• Replaced the tie rod assemblies (inner tie rod, outer tie rod)
• Cleaned up some misc. trim pieces, the front carrier, and pusher fan (disassembled, serviced the motor, etc.)

Will finish putting the steering rack and power steering stuff in soon, then get the front carrier, washer fluid reservoir, horn, etc., back on. All the parts to rebuild the headlights are finally in .. what a mess. The one and the only thing I dislike about the e46 3 series, especially the M3 – the turn indicator/headlight design/setup. Made a costly mistake when taking things apart .. details in my next post.

Hope everyone had a good holiday!

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https://ibb.co/album/rv3KRH

[flemm2]

Started a parts list for the engine rebuild. Haven't searched the forums yet - is anyone familiar with the differences between the standard S54 and the S54 that's in the M3 CSL?

[dworthy]

Started a parts list for the engine rebuild. Haven't searched the forums yet - is anyone familiar with the differences between the standard S54 and the S54 that's in the M3 CSL?

The CSL will have a different intake, otherwise AFAIK there is no difference in the motor itself. Take a look at the Alpha N tune, and intake as that would be the closest you will get to the CSL, as it removes the MAF and puts a MAP sensor in it's place, and of course a different tune.

Now the Euro version of the car has the cats down by the mid-pipe, while the U.S. version is on the header pipes, that alone is worth somewhere around 10 BHP with the euro tune.

[Kevin2772]

That CSL intake sure is pretty, but sweet jesus is it expensive....

[flemm2]

The CSL will have a different intake, otherwise AFAIK there is no difference in the motor itself. Take a look at the Alpha N tune, and intake as that would be the closest you will get to the CSL, as it removes the MAF and puts a MAP sensor in it's place, and of course a different tune.

Now the Euro version of the car has the cats down by the mid-pipe, while the U.S. version is on the header pipes, that alone is worth somewhere around 10 BHP with the euro tune.

That doesn't sound too bad, thank you for providing some insight. I'll read into MAF vs. MAP and Alpha N Tune. Do you happen to know what the advantages of using a MAP sensor opposed to a MAF are? And are you familiar with the CSL SMG Flash?

I've been cross referencing part numbers in addition to searching the forums - looks like the intake/exhaust camshafts may be different? That's the only discrepancy I've found so far, but only half-ish way through the engine diagrams. I'm putting a detailed/complete list together, adding some stuff to my check list based on your comments. I'll post when I finish!

[flemm2]

That CSL intake sure is pretty, but sweet jesus is it expensive....

Yeah, bigly expensive man! Which one are you eyeing? And that's just how it goes, name of the Bm game - paying for the pedigree, but ultimately we get what we pay for (that really applies to everything). Unfortunately I am already through most of my original 'budget' for the car.. whatever. No stopping now.

[flemm2]

*Spoiler, mostly ranting/complaining. Finished rebuilding the headlights. It was a big PITA. The tabs on the housing are fragile; it’s cumbersome, required a lot of manipulation/reorientation to disassemble/assemble, the mounting tabs for the turn signals (wtf? What a crap design, one of few.. but it’s crap/chintzy and impossible to reinforce), had to backtrack several times, but anyway.. spent like >30 hours on them. I didn’t get many in-process pictures (I wasn’t really pleased with how things were going at any point). But yeah, whatever. Both came out great.

During disassembly (removing the reflector assembly from the housing), I kind of lost my patience and broke the level gear retaining clip (yellow clip behind the reflector assy., holds the vertical level adjustment gear/sprocket in place, very rear of the housing). The part isn’t sold individually and doesn’t work without it. New xenon headlights are $1300.. each. Would’ve replaced it, but I’d rather allocate cash to engine parts right now.

Solution – purchased a used Xenon headlight (Genuine BMW, same P/N, but mounting tabs broke off) on eBay ($235 shipped); took it apart and retrieved the clip; cleaned everything up and reassembled. Worked out nicely, but essentially paid $235 for a little ****ing plastic clip. Tried to restore the lens, but they were beyond repair and wouldn’t seal (I was getting condensation build-up after the first wash). Parts list below –

Genuine BMW	Rubber Windshield Buffer	BMW-51311925433	$1.75	2	$3.50	Lighting
Genuine BMW	Headlight Cover Strip	BMW-63128384489	$29.00	1	$29.00	Lighting
Genuine BMW	Headlight Cover Strip	BMW-63128384490	$29.00	1	$29.00	Lighting
Genuine BMW	High Beam Cover	BMW-63128384492	$13.95	2	$27.90	Lighting
Genuine BMW	Headlight Bulb	BMW-63217160781	$12.43	2	$24.86	Lighting
Genuine BMW	Halogen Headlight Lens Right	BMW-63128382192	$114.33	1	$114.33	Lighting
Genuine BMW	Headlight Lens Gasket	BMW-63128380210	$30.40	1	$30.40	Lighting
Genuine BMW	Xenon Headlight Lens	BMW-63126929565	$85.40	1	$85.40	Lighting
OE Supplier	Turn Signal Assembly	MAR-LLD631	$48.52	1	$48.52	Lighting
Genuine BMW	Headlight Lens Gasket	BMW-63128380210	$30.40	1	$30.40	Lighting
OE Supplier	Turn Signal Assembly	MAR-LLD632	$48.52	1	$48.52	Lighting
AF Suppler	Replacement Fogs	E46M3WJFOG	$35.10	1	$35.10	Lighting
AF Suppler	D2S 5500K XB HID BULB	B650KT	$50.00	1	$50.00	Lighting
Genuine BMW			$139.96	1	$234.55	Lighting
					$791.48

Cheaped on the bulbs. I was frustrated/stressed at the time – I’ll likely replace with genuine/OE later on. Let me know your thoughts.

https://ibb.co/album/67jzJg

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[flemm2]

So I had some the bodywork and trims (mirror coverings) surface gauged/sort of analyzed by a Bmw certified collision repair center here in town (local Bmw stealer referred me to them, same shop that did the front/rear bumper repair). Car 'repaint' (the original paint is really just sprayed over) now verified/confirmed. True quality, ducking Maako. The front and rear bumper were so badly damaged (and plastic), seems collision shop missed it too without having seen any of the other bodywork/trim.

Honestly, (in hindsight) can't believe I missed it.. LL. Inexperience with paint got me.

Everything (minus the front/rear bumper - already done; and engine compartment - wasn't sprayed over, it's original) will be repainted. I believe it's the right thing to do? It'll be done properly this time (fully stripped, repainted, top coated). Bigly bucks - but in the long run might actually have a positive impact on the value? So much for hitting the budget target.

All the paint work will be thoroughly documented. Let me know thoughts.

[dworthy]

That doesn't sound too bad, thank you for providing some insight. I'll read into MAF vs. MAP and Alpha N Tune. Do you happen to know what the advantages of using a MAP sensor opposed to a MAF are? And are you familiar with the CSL SMG Flash?

I've been cross referencing part numbers in addition to searching the forums - looks like the intake/exhaust camshafts may be different? That's the only discrepancy I've found so far, but only half-ish way through the engine diagrams. I'm putting a detailed/complete list together, adding some stuff to my check list based on your comments. I'll post when I finish!

So with the MAP sensor vers the MAF, you get quicker response from the motor is my understanding. I think it comes down to the fuel map and how the DME would have to calculate where to pull from. Also it is pulled from the air stream, which reduces turbulence in the intake runners per say.

I am not familiar with the SMG CSL flash, as I wasn't much of an SMG guy.

AFAIK the cams are the same with the CSL, but there are more aggressive cams to be had out there.

[flemm2]

So with the MAP sensor vers the MAF, you get quicker response from the motor is my understanding. I think it comes down to the fuel map and how the DME would have to calculate where to pull from. Also it is pulled from the air stream, which reduces turbulence in the intake runners per say.

I am not familiar with the SMG CSL flash, as I wasn't much of an SMG guy.

AFAIK the cams are the same with the CSL, but there are more aggressive cams to be had out there.

Thanks man. Seems like MAP is the way to go.. just not sure if it's worth it when weighing the cost/gains. Still thinking that through.

I did find some time to look into the SMG TCU stuff. AFAIK for now - it's programmed to rev-match more aggressively, the the launch control rpm is a bit higher, and a couple other things that were explained to me over the phone, don't think I accurately describe the more technical bits. Sold though - a CSL TCU is inbound.

[flemm2]

Sorry guys (for anyone who is actually reading these), fell a little behind on my posts. All my energy has been dedicated to resolving a Crank – No Start issue (due to EWS faults) that popped up after washing the car last week, but I’ve got her running again so here I am (the build thread is actually 3-4 weeks behind where I’m currently at with the car, intentional).

It’s a long post, as many many things have occurred. Oh and *mostly sarcasm* I don't want to read ***t about the color match alright. I know that I ****ed that up, it'll get fixed later. It's still a sensitive topic, all other feedback welcome. Thank you for understanding.

I got the front end mostly finished and mounted the front bumper. Bunch of parts replaced, some repaired.

• Cleaned up the washer fluid reservoir, pumps and level sensor. Remounted to the front carrier
• Cleaned up the horn/brackets and contact pins
• Repaired all the wires on the grounding circuit which were exposed/damaged, though I have a feeling I’ll have to replace the housing and solder in new pigtails at some point. Some of them we severely damaged. TBD
• Completely disassembled the pusher fan, serviced the fan motor (may have covered this already) and cleaned everything up
• Replaced the front air duct
• Power steering system is back together, and new boots are installed

Parts list (does not include all the part associated hardware, like rivets, bolts, etc.)

Genuine BMW	Brake Air Duct Bracket	BMW-51717892797
Genuine BMW	Fender Liner	BMW-51712695663
Genuine BMW	Brake Air Duct Bracket	BMW-51717892798
Genuine BMW	Fender Liner	BMW-51712695664
Genuine BMW	Radiator Air Duct Rivet	BMW-51718229003
Genuine BMW	Bumper Cover Gasket	BMW-51118191149
Genuine BMW	Cover, Fog Lamp	BMW-51112695255
Genuine BMW	Fillister Head Screw	BMW-07146986938
Genuine BMW	Sheet Metal Nut (Self Locking)	BMW-07143428236
Genuine BMW	Cover, Fog Lamp	BMW-51112695256
Genuine BMW	Air Duct Front	BMW-51717893351

OE Supplier	Crush Washer	REI-417008900
OE Supplier	Steering Rack Bellow Kit	FEB-27086
OE Supplier	Crush Washer	REI-417105400
Genuine BMW	Power Steering Hose Clamp	BMW-32416751127
Genuine BMW	Power Steering Hose Clamp	BMW-32416751128
OE Supplier	Tie Rod Assembly	LEM-2711502
OE Supplier	Tie Rod Assembly	LEM-2711602
Genuine BMW	Power Steering Reservoir Cap Seal	BMW-32411128333

After finishing I took the car out for a spin. The alignment is obviously completely jacked (not comfortable going faster than 45/50 mph, haha!) – but I can already tell it’s taken a big step in the right direction. But it’s very clear now (it kind of was already) that the engine/trans mounts and entire backend is looser than your grandma.

• Scheduled an appointment at the stealership for an alignment (they’re going to do the airbag recall stuff too, surprisingly the cost is only $165). It might be hard for them to get it right with the rear bushing in such bad condition, but a rough square up will do for now
• The power steering return hose is already leaking. Overall I can tell the system is limping; the engine is definitely working harder than it should – I’m hoping it’s the leak. I do suspect the pump may be faulty though, the fluid that came out during disassembly was red? Don’t think that’s right .. but anyway, I went ahead and ordered new hoses, a new reservoir, etc. If there’s still struggle, I’ll replace the pump when the engine comes out.
• BR Series Coilover Kit. Incredibly impressed so far based on how much they cost; the ride comfort is excellent on soft settings. A good mark for BC Racing
• Changed the engine oil too – running Liqui Moli 10W-60 (4.9 qt.), Motor Oil Saver (0.3 qt.), and MoS2 Anti-Friction (0.3 qt.). Also running a can of Jectron and Valve Clean (separately, full tank cycles). It should smooth things out a little - giving me a better idea of how healthy the engine really is.

Next up.. probably spark plugs (really just for info. Purposes, i.e., to read the plugs that are in there now/visually examine the top of the pistons), tune the ride height in (the new coilovers should be set by now), rebuild the mirrors, and fit-check the Style 58 Rondell’s (first 2, 18x10j, should be here in a couple days).

Everything (that I’m aware of) to do the rear axle bushings, differential rebuild, and drive axle stuff is in. The Tuner motorsport weld-in Rear Subframe/chassis reinforcement kit arrived – I need to brush up on my welding before tackling that. I haven’t done much research yet, but I assume the fuel tank needs to be completely pumped/empty for that?

https://ibb.co/album/pvKYpS

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[180SXTCY]

Pretty sure there is more than just the intake that is different between a regular e46 m3 and the e46 m3 csl.

The CSL engine differences that I know of are:

-intake - obvious to spot the difference
-cam profile - Pretty sure they are same lift, just a longer duration

[flemm2]

Pretty sure there is more than just the intake that is different between a regular e46 m3 and the e46 m3 csl.

The CSL engine differences that I know of are:

-intake - obvious to spot the difference
-cam profile - Pretty sure they are same lift, just a longer duration

Hey man. Yeah that's my understanding too, thinking it might not be worth it (in $) to go all the way. Thanks for the feedback!

[flemm2]

Got the wheels/tires fitted. I think it looks pretty solid, fitment is spot on too. Let me know your thoughts! Final tire sizes: 275/35ZR18, 235/40ZR18

Definitely a little burnt out – taking off for a couple weeks to visit the fam/relax. It’ll give me a chance to plan out the next bits of the project too.

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[Kevin2772]

Suprised those are only 18's. They look bigger. Any particular reason you wanted to go 18's instead of the 19 setup?

[flemm2]

Suprised those are only 18's. They look bigger. Any particular reason you wanted to go 18's instead of the 19 setup?

I can run tires with a thicker side wall and keep the ride height low, they weigh a bit less too. But also just because Rondell 58 is one of my favorites from the era, they're super rare and the set I came across was 18" so I jumped on it.

Seems like the consensus is people prefer the wheels that came with the car! Style 359 belongs on an e90/e91/e92 IMO.

[Thrifty S50]

Good read so far, I love Topaz Blue! Glad to watch it being resurrected!

A few things however, for your panels that dont match 100%, you need to make sure Glasurit Paint was used. BMW was using Glasurit back in the E46 M Era, and it is very costly but provides an amazing finish. Most of the time if you bring something in to paint match, they sample the color code, and wont use Glasurit, so its close, but never a “true” match.

Also a CSL box is definitely a nice route, but there are a number of things to understand about the conversion. Also, you will definitely be in the 2k -3k range in cost, once its all said and done. At its core, you need to re-tune, relocate IAT, and stick with MAF or convert to MAP. There are some small things needed as well, support items, like CSL dipstick, etc.

The main difference in the MAP v MAF debacle, in simple terms, is the the OEM CSL tune, or other MAP based tunes use live data to adjust values across VE tables from the MAP sensor, Vs tunes like Alpha N used a “scaled” set of values. In the real world what this means is that because a MAP based tune reads live data, it can adjust for things like altitude, for example; of which the Alpha N would not, and a change in altitude could require a re-tune.

More technically speaking, Speed density tune (load based on MAP) is typically used forced induction applications. For naturally aspirated engines, specially for independent throttle bodies, you find that an alpha N (load based on Throttle Position) typically allows for more resolution since the MAP pressure doesnt change much. The speed density does automatically account for barometric pressure altitude since injector flow rate is just dependent on the differential pressure between the fuel pressure and MAP, the alpha N could be used with a barometric pressure compensation as well to account for elevation changes, however compensating MAP is enough. From what I understand, BMW does an alpha N with a MAP compensation which compensates changes in air density but also kinda already has the barometric pressure coupled since changes in that would lead to changes in MAP.

Also like 180 said, only real difference engine wise is the cam profile, intake, and tune of course. Read as much as you can on the conversion, before diving in as it gets a little specific, if you’re trying to DIY and keep cost down. There are multiple ways to do the MAP conversion, as well as IAT relocation, so find one that works for you. I will soon be taking the plunge here shortly, as I just recently had my CSL box delivered

[flemm2]

About that time.

Does anyone know where I can buy a legitimate K+DCAN cable?

[dalecan]

I have a brand new unused one if you want to buy it. I bought two by mistake.