Hello, I have a 2012 BMW with a failure of the windshield washer. Has anyone experienced something similar? Details:
- Wipers come on
- No sound from the washer pump
- Pump is new
- Car is throwing Junction Box fault code A6D3, wash front, signal or value below threshold
- Car is not blowing fuse 48
- Replacing fuse does not help, though fuse block terminal socket shows some signs of corrosion (difficult or impossible to clean)
So, yes, in some ways this may seem obvious what's wrong. Curious if the issue really is the Junction Box or maybe the fuse block.
Thanks!
Welcome to the Forum!
So what brand of pump did you use? Also what are you using to scan for codes?
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Okay, sounds good, for I have seen non-oe/oem parts fail right out of the box.
Can you command the pump to run? That way you can check for power at the plug, and if there isn't any, work your way back up the wiring harness to look for breaks, ect. Also would be worth looking at the ground side too.
And this is assuming that he cleared the code and it comes right back, and you have checked fuses.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
If I put 12V on the pump it pumps just fine. When I pull the stalk on the steering wheel column the wipers come on but no sound from the pump. The #48 fuse is good, though research suggests that fuse only applies to the headlamp washers.
The wiring in the engine bay looks intact and immediately goes into the firewall.
I would also check F-25 under the hood, for me it shows F-48 as the seat heater for the driver's side. I think what you are looking for is part the circuit breaker block located down by the driver's side kick panel, and for some reason it's not kicking on. I would have to do more research to see where exactly the wires run to and how they are powered.
So as you never identified the vehicle and the "My cars" say a Z-4, I am going to go off the 2012 328i here, do let me know if it's something different, or you posted in the wrong spot?
Last edited by dworthy; 10-26-2020 at 11:31 AM.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
Hey don't sweat it for there are forums that don't get much traffic at all, and I don't visit all of them anyway. I just tend to stick with a the 3-series and the General Mechanical Help ones.
I will take a look in ISTA+ to see what it shows about the functions and wiring diagrams and get back with you about my thought on what to do next.
Darin
Current:
16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
Past:
95 318is Montreal Blue Met (297)/Beige(K1SN) RIP, killed by an Idiot.
84 M535i gray market Burgandy Rot Met/Black Leather Lowered by Intrax on bilies, poly everywhere, B&B cat back system, K&N, and a hitch! Da Beast - Still running w/400k+!
91 316i euro Tizianrot/Gray cloth - E-36 w/M-40 RIP, but great on gas! Best was 38 MPG
82 528i euro Saphire Blue Met/Blue Leather RIP
79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
79 318 Silver/Black - The first one that got it all started
M-Flight Member
I can confirm the problem was fixed with a new Junction Box. For anyone searching who finds this post, note that the Junction Box must be programmed / paired to the vehicle.
- - - Updated - - -
I was amazed to find out that it is possible to have the original Junction Box repaired. The cost of repair was $225. A new Junction Box is $400. I decided to go with a new Junction Box. There are worse failures with this unit than a failed wiper washer and mine was eight years old.
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