540/6 speed manual has been in a field for 6 years it is being taken to a junker. If anybody wants that Getrag transmission gonna have to come to Lyndborough New Hampshire within 2 weeks. I have no means to remove it very tragic loss it's going to probably be crushed if nobody takes it.
While I would normally expect about $700 for this transmission I'll take $200 if you take the whole car.
Not much else of value on the car perhaps some body panels glass doors the interior is not really usable and has a set of 4 true BMW 17" wheels not sure of the style #
PM me if you have any questions I just learned about this today the guy said it's going in 2 weeks
Attachment 680027
Last edited by jehu; 10-23-2020 at 10:24 PM.
Hey whats up buddy, do you mind slling me the seat backs from your sport seats? Attached is a picture as an example.
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They are parchment. Let you know what I can do I was planning on taking the passenger seat which is in so so condition and I've already taken the back off of the sport seat to use in my other 540 I think I put the other older back that I swapped in a closet at home I make sure I have them both and let you know give me a zip code in PM
Last edited by jehu; 10-17-2020 at 03:52 AM.
One More week for this piece of BMW history... I am weeping ..
Are you able to help me with those seat back panels?
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that's a generous offer, I'm surprised no takers.
Cats are worth several hundred in scrap, gearbox is saleable as are the rest of the swap components
Post it on local Craigslist or similar it'll bring more
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Good idea but I harvested the clutch pedal recently.. driveshaft is good however and of course the main support bracket for the pedal assembly... I have a TIG welded clutch pedal but was concerned it was slightly off enough to cause the master to separate
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where is the manage attachments option? I can't upload images?
I have found a local shop who will dismantle the Getrag and driveshaft and possibly the fuel tank and differential. Depends on AAA towing it. I'll update if I can get this brown down.
So to update the way has cleared to take this to a shop next Thursday November 5th and remove the Getrag Six Speed and driveshaft. Once its out I will post a separate thread selling that but it looks like this classified board has disabled uploading attachments and I may have to do that over on the main classified board. Anyway I would probably start asking $800 for the two items plus shipping.
The rest of the car will need to be taken from the shop in short order. It has good doors in the highly coveted Oxford Green and Parchment would be a shame to lose them but again I have nowhere to store things that would not cost me as much as they'd be worth to sell so act fast if you want the body.
I would also mention the front end steering suspsension parts are also in fine shape. I have proposed having everything taken out together; Strut tubes springs strut inserts and the control arms and tie rods all usable but at $80/ hr it has to look worthwhile with my lack of cost free storage.
Hi mate, if it still has the plastic undertray that covers part of the gearbox, I need that. Also if it has the correct mounting bracket that holds the O2 sensor plugs at the rear of the gearbox I also need that Please let me know via PM
Done more than I can count. I'm not a fast wrench-turner and it takes me about an hour and a half in junkyard conditions to pull one. The pedal assembly and steering column bracket are held together with an Impossibolt, which requires a cutting wheel to remove. They can however be removed together as an assembly. Nine screws to remove the knee and kick panels. Six bolts - four at the firewall, two at the column - holding the column/pedal bracket assembly to the body. A few different ways to separate the steering shaft. A bit of wiring. A throttle cable, a clip for the brake pedal pushrod. The throttle pedal can be finagled off the bent pedal shaft, or unclipped from the floor. The hardest part is the clutch master cylinder line, which is just hard to reach. In a junkyard, I usually yank the whole assembly inwards and cut the hydraulic pipe.
Does removing the steering column related part leave the car without steering or is the actual shaft connection unaffected? I expect even if I were to go for this when it gets down to the shop it would need at least to be able to be turned to get it on the removal flatbed. I already removed the clutch pedal, accelerator arm/pedal and master cylinder and saw the several bolts holding the bracket so if the steering can still be used and we're not disengaging anything or if I can re assemble steering connection I could give it a shot.
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Steering can be reassembled properly or just enough to get it onto a flatbed. FWIW, I've rolled cars that not only had no steering, but the front tierods not even connected to each other. Just have to wrestle the front wheels a bit.
Proper reassembly would entail removing the Impossibolt, and putting the column bracket back on the car. Sloppy reassembly would be just slipping the wheel-column-pedalbracket assembly back onto the column splines, without bolting it to the body. Could also disconnect at the large splines and put vicegrips on the stub at the firewall.
Please save as much of the following as you can:
Trans and shifter linkage (lever, carrier, selector)
Trans crossmember
Driveshaft
Diff
Axleshafts
GM
ECU
Shifter interior parts if half-decent
The pedals are still available new, inexpensive (I paid ~40 for a clutch pedal brand new from Germany), and BFc member TheStigg makes a reasonably-priced add-on clutch pedal spring perch that I can vouch for. The spring itself is however rather expensive.
Last edited by moroza; 10-31-2020 at 02:27 PM.
I want to buy the clutch reservoir bottle bracket if it is not already sold or spoken for. Please let me know. Thanks
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How is the front bumper, nose panel, pass side front turn signal and headlight and hood? My oxford green 530i had a run in with a deer and I’m looking for some clean panels
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Removing the entire pedals assembly entails removing a ridiculous "security bolt"*. It has an essentially flat surface as the fastening part breaks off with sufficient tightening torque at the factory. Cutting it off, cutting a groove into it for a flat blade screwdriver and using a sharp chisel and hammering around the perimeter are all methods used to remove it. Access is poor especially if you are adverse to the contortions needed for working way up under the dash.
Once that bolt is removed it's easy peasy.
Steering remains intact
* I hear it called that but wonder it's true purpose. Removing that bolt would be no contribution to stealing the car.
Last edited by ross1; 11-03-2020 at 05:44 PM.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
I removed only the Getrag Six speed transmission and the front 540 sport sway bar the rest is going to a junk yard tomorrow or the next day.. the driveshaft rear CV joint was destroyed by the weight of the differential when it dropped out .. it was bent and broken so it remained on the car. Sadly the fuel tank I got from Germany in 2011 was leaking upon arrival so we drilled a hole in it and drained the 18 gallons of Shell 93 V power that was still in it [2014 prices over 3.00/ga.] Goodby to another Oxford Green/Parchment 1994 e34 540 Sport [not M Sport] RIP in pieces.. Interesting to note the car was built in Dingolfing in November of 1994. It was eligible this year in NH to run Antique plates if it wasn't a daily driver.
Last edited by jehu; 11-06-2020 at 12:04 AM.
The diff broke loose? Was it the rear bracket? Was it the alu or steel version?
Both the rear bracket and the mounting location were rotted. There wasn't much left of the bracket and larger than half dollar sized holes where it mounted. Looking as the red rust it has to have been steel. It was probably starting when I had the parts from a wrecked 540/6 donated into it but they mounted the diff at that time and I drove it almost three years till it one day dropped while driving.
The fenders? They have some rust at the wheel corners as does the hood which had been repainted at one point shows a few bubble so the doors and the trunk lid appear clean on the surface. Took this last week; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0OS2Lck6WLI
When I remark the fenders are "good I just meant they were not crumpled ... they'd bear a repainting for those corner issues.
Last edited by jehu; 11-06-2020 at 12:56 PM.
Have you sold the sport seats? I cant find a set to save my life haha.
The passenger seat in in there and I have one back and base with the base somewhat disassembled but the upright left bolster has crumbled foam and a face sized hole so a new section would need to be made.The junk yard won't be looking at it till Monday now so the passenger seat in unbolted yet I was unable to get it off the tabs. I'd probably need to replace the general/relay modules and get a battery pack to open the passenger door becasue though I have the key and can open the drivers door. I locked the passenger door and it won't open again so its difficult to get a good position to work the front off the tabs. PM me an offer bearing in mind the substantial weight, size and distance would make shipping these expensive.
Do you have the Rear brake calipers/ brackets?
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