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Thread: NJ looking for Shop to do my 6speed swap

  1. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Central NJ
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    02 540 Touring, 2010 650
    Not able to get trans to move, not sure how to run clutch line for the the slave cylinder, cannot find the opening.

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  2. #27
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    Sundance Mesa, NM
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    00 540/6, '16 Highlander
    Got your PM.
    I've never done a 6 speed swap as I have a 6 speed.
    There are plenty of others here that have so if someone can correct or confirm please do.
    This pic shows the slave hose going up to the firewall. Your car must have a plug in the firewall hole.
    The clutch master cylinder is inside the car on the other side of the firewall. Look at the top of the carpet behind the clutch pedal locarion.
    You should see something there.

    DSCN1871a.jpg

  3. #28
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    02 540 Touring, 2010 650
    Okay, I found two holes but there is a third hole next to the accelerator pedal, maybe that's the one.

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  4. #29
    Join Date
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    Central NJ
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    02 540 Touring, 2010 650
    Found it, it was location at top right corner. Thank you

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  5. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Central NJ
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    02 540 Touring, 2010 650
    Update

    Last night I completed 90% of the wiring, only thing outstanding is how to wire the clutch switch. I'm only seeing DIY for the old style switches. I have the harness adapter that goes into the clutch switch, with two additional connectors. Not sure what to do with connectors.

    Tranny install got delayed by two days waiting for flywheel T60 tool.

    I forgot to purchase the cap for the alternator, can I start the car without this part? Planning code car this morning while I wait for parts to be delivered



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  6. #31
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
    Join Date
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    00 540/6, '16 Highlander
    There should be a few, if not more, clutch switch info here, probably on a Blackknight530i post.
    The cap on the back of the alternator? All the coolant will get pumped out of the engine without the cap.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Kentucky
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    247
    My Cars
    1998 BMW 540i/6
    Keep this up, I am interested to see the end product! Great posts so far

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Central NJ
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    02 540 Touring, 2010 650
    Remember I had my rear main seal replaced few months ago. I don't understand why I'm seeing oil sweating. Still waiting for flywheel tool.


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  9. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Central NJ
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    My Cars
    02 540 Touring, 2010 650
    It's currently raining dogs and cats in my neck of the woods.

    I waited all day for this tool, it was finally delivered after 5pm this evening.

    A few lessons learned, this pass week.

    1) buy ALL your tools ahead of project start date
    2) no need to rush, take your time. Do it right the first time
    3) Don't be afraid to break your own car
    4) Don't be afraid to start a major project
    5) Paying to get work done does not mean it will be done right, no matter what they cost to get it done.

    Just a bit sour about my finding as I was removing transmission. Missing bolts, leaking gasket, in an area that was recently worked on. I called the shop to express my dissatisfaction.

    So happened I did not need a transmission jack, I use a 2x4 about 20" long to support the trans, once the it was disconnected from the car, I slide it off the jack and connected tow straps to the back of the transmission and pulled it from under the car. It was quick and painless, car had to be lifted another 4" for the transmission to pass under. For installation I plan to use same technique, but will strap it in place on the jack.

    For the transmission cooling lines I saw them off closer to the transmission, no major leakage. I'm having a hard time removing lower radiator hose that goes the trans cooler. I've twisted it 90 degrees but it would not move when I pull down.

    Manual flex disc uses I think 18mm bolts compare to 21mm on the automatic disc.

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  10. #35
    Join Date
    May 2018
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    Austin, TX
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    00 M5 | 03 540i | 94 NSX
    Excellent progress! I'm glad you opted to tackle this yourself rather than pay someone else a ton of money to do it poorly.

    The rear main seal doesn't look like it's leaking in that photo but what is the red stuff dripping down from above?

    If you haven't already, it might be good to do the 3 transmission seals and replace the shifter bushings while everything is easily accessible.
    Last edited by MotorMouth93; 11-12-2020 at 06:16 PM.

  11. #36
    Join Date
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    02 540 Touring, 2010 650
    Yea, main seal is in good condition. Weather has been bad last two days, I really wanted to investigate the dripping, need to find source before installing flywheel.

    Don't know why, but I always thought automatic cars had pilot bearing.

    I did replace output and shaft rod seals. I had a difficult finding the 36mm deep socket with thin walls.

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  12. #37
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    02 540 Touring, 2010 650
    Just put in another 90minutes of work tonight. I really dislike the pressure plate bolts, they too soft for my liking. I have trans prepped and ready to install.

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  13. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Central NJ
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    02 540 Touring, 2010 650
    Update

    So transmission is installed, but two major problems. I was Unable to get the right size bolt top right on the transmission. Second, one of the four bolts broke on the transmission bracket, would that create a problem?

    In addition to the above, I removed transmissions cooler, discovered my water pump bearing was shot, alt. Pulley was also bad. Waiting for delivery of those parts.

    Should I pause and extract bolt?

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    Last edited by pietern740il; 11-17-2020 at 12:20 PM.

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    Lansdale, Pa
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    98 540 6, SC'ed, 16psi
    I would extract it and get a new bolt.
    98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!

  15. #40
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    Central NJ
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    02 540 Touring, 2010 650
    I'm not comfortable with just three bolts, found bolt extractor on Home depot website, will try it this evening.
    Looking at the pic, I will increase the bracket opening as well.

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    Last edited by pietern740il; 11-17-2020 at 02:43 PM.

  16. #41
    Join Date
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    98 540 6, SC'ed, 16psi
    https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Hanson-...40&sr=8-7&th=1

    or similar. Make sure you center punch the bolt first so the drill goes in dead center.
    98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!

  17. #42
    Join Date
    May 2018
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    Austin, TX
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    00 M5 | 03 540i | 94 NSX
    Quote Originally Posted by philly98540 View Post
    https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Hanson-...40&sr=8-7&th=1

    or similar. Make sure you center punch the bolt first so the drill goes in dead center.
    Those extractors are cheap crap. If the bolt head snapped off, it's almost guaranteed that the half as wide and twice as hard extractor is just going to snap too and leave you with something you can't even drill through. If you absolutely insist on using an extractor like that, use the ones with the straight flutes.

    I would put the car back together without that bolt for now then drive it to someone who can weld a nut to the remaining threads and remove it properly. Or if you have a buddy who can weld see if they can do it.
    Last edited by MotorMouth93; 11-17-2020 at 03:07 PM.

  18. #43
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    98 540 6, SC'ed, 16psi
    Quote Originally Posted by MotorMouth93 View Post
    Those extractors are cheap crap. If the bolt head snapped off, it's almost guaranteed that the half as wide and twice as hard extractor is just going to snap too and leave you with something you can't even drill through. If you absolutely insist on using an extractor like that, use the ones with the straight flutes.

    I would put the car back together without that bolt for now then drive it to someone who can weld a nut to the remaining threads and remove it properly. Or if you have a buddy who can weld see if they can do it.
    I've had decent luck with those, but the straight ones are better. You had a bad time from the sound of it LOL.
    98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!

  19. #44
    Join Date
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    Central NJ
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    02 540 Touring, 2010 650
    Thanks for the suggestions, I will remove bracket after work tonight, and make one attempt to extract. If it fails I will continue to put car back together and address it later



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  20. #45
    Join Date
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    02 540 Touring, 2010 650
    Made good progress last night, I was able to drill through the broken bolt, but all bits are not removed as yet.

    I was able to reconnect drive shaft, pic shows me reducing the thickness of my 18mm wrench, to help with locking bolt on the drive shaft.


    I really would like to install these subframe bushings, was thinking to cut the bottom part of the bushing off, then use sedan subframe bushings tool to remove the remaining piece. Then to install soap and water and jack into place.

    More delays, turns out the shifting arm I received, is too long, it came out of 530. New part will be here in two days.

    Additional parts arrived will tie up front end tonight, I plan to use 745 clutch fan.

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  21. #46
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Central NJ
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    02 540 Touring, 2010 650
    Update

    I have the engine back together, transmission mounted, pedals installed.

    BUT forgot about drive shaft. What's the solution for the touring. It seems I received the wrong drive shaft.

    What drive shaft do I need? Or do I need to get the auto shaft modified?

    The part I received ends with 1229415

    In pic shows auto drive shaft shorter

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  22. #47
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Central NJ
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    02 540 Touring, 2010 650
    Got car started, just need to resolve drive shaft issue. I was able to source front section of E39 M5, spline is different, M5 has 34 teeth, 540 only has 32.

    When the car started I noticed my brake like was on, not sure why, maybe I need to swap brake switch from my old pedal.

    I have not installed exhaust, was thinking to gut front cats, not sure it would yield any benefits. But I do have the 97 down pipes, which would allow me to do away with those front cats.



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  23. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Central NJ
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    02 540 Touring, 2010 650
    I complete swap earlier today, car does feel more agile. Discovered my parking brake needs some adjustments.

    Overall it was a very good experience.

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  24. #49
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    00 M5 | 03 540i | 94 NSX
    Congrats! That was a big undertaking!

    Parking brake adjustment is pretty easy on these cars, you don't even need to take the rear wheel off, just remove one of the lug bolts. (but it is much easier to see what's going on if you take the caliper and rotor off)

  25. #50
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    02 540 Touring, 2010 650
    Thanks, as for the parking brake. My driver side rear wheel hàs none of the hardware installed. A buddy of mine had replaced my rear calipers and rotors to M5 style. He removed the parking hardware and to install cover, but forgot to reinstall. So I need to purchase these hardware.



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