New 1994 740i owner here. Questions, and plans for the car.

[ParkeyOh]

Hey all, so I just picked up a 1994 740i oxford green on tan. 109k miles one owner car. Has possibly been sitting upwards of 15 years. Got it at an estate auction for $1400. The cars exterior is very nice for its age, few chips here and there and a couple scratches. But never been in an accident and the paint and clear are awesome other then the small flaws. The interior is all there, needs a good cleaning but it'll look great when done, no tears rips or cracks in the leather. Car runs drives and stops. Will eventually need full suspension refresh, brakes, fluids. Car has some rust on the usual parts underneath like the fuel tank, subframes, axles, diff but the body is straight and rust free. Fuel tank will need replacing eventually down the road but it holds fuel for now.

So I just got the car Saturday. Today I started with an oil change, fuel filters, and plugs. Well not surprising at all there's a good bit of oil in the spark plugs area. So I know I'll need valve cover gaskets. My question is what other maintenance should I do as I do the valve cover gaskets? I am leaning towards doing water pump and fan clutch as my fan has some wobble. And if I am in there doing all that I guess valley pan cover and gasket? But what else would be best to get done while all this stuff is taken off the top end?

I have the interior soaking in the leatherique to restore the seats and doors. Going to pull the seats out when they are done so I can shampoo the carpet real well. Overall the interior will be very nice when done, needing only a couple of the wood trims that have some cracks, and new floor mats.

I picked up my first e34 like 6 months ago and started a bunch of work on it but lost steam due to seeing how much work it was really going to need to be "my car". There's a lot more rust on that car then I could see from the get go and I just stalled not knowing if it was worth it to fix it all being it was a 525i/5. Then this car popped on my radar and the body is just great for the age. So I am thinking I'll finish putting most of my parts in to the e34 and drive that while I get this thing back up to my standards. Sell the e34 and bank that money for the future of the e32.

[shogun]

if the car has been sitting for 15 years, I would change all hoses, fluids, filters. Basically an inspection II, here copied:
f the car is new to you and there are no records, you could do a check now, the official list:

BMW E32 INSPECTION II SERVICE SCHEDULE – Check List

VEHICLE RAISED ON HOIST:- Engine at operating Temperature
Remove Engine shield.
Drain engine oil and replace oil filter and sump plug washer.
Check transmission for leaks including coolant line of final drive.
Drain Automatic Transmission oil (except 5hp30).
Refill automatic transmission (transmissions without dipstick only).
Change manual transmission oil all models (except E36[M40,M42,M50]E34[M40,M50,M60]and E31[M70] engines which are to be changed every second inspII service).
Replace rear axle oil (E38 Every 2nd inspection II).
Replace oil in transfer box and front axle final drive (4WD).
Check clutch driven plate for wear, every 2nd Inspection II.
Renew main fuel filter: Petrol engines every 2nd Inspection II.
Check P.A.S system for leaks.
Check radiator bottom hose for leaks.
Check driveshaft gaiters for leaks.
Check Steering for freedom from play.
Check condition of track rod and front axle ball joints.
Check steering box for leaks, check UJs couplings and flexible gaiters.
Check all connections and lines on braking system for leaks, damage and correct position including
handbrake cables and bleed nipple covers.
Check Fuel pipes, tank and connections for leaks, damage and position.
Check condition, position and mounting of exhaust system
Inspect underside of body for corrosion/underseal damage etc (every 2 years except E30).
Refit engine shield.

LOWER VEHICLE TO HALF-WAY POSITION
Remove road wheels.
Remove brake pads/linings, clean and check for wear.
Check wheel cylinders and dust seals for leaks.
Check brake disc/drum surface.
Check handbrake lever travel, movement of handbrake cables and adjustment.
Check on rear disc brake models, handbrake lining wear.
Grease wheel centring spigots for alloy wheels.
Check shock absorbers for leaks.
Check torque of wheel air deflector E34/M5 1st inspection II only.
Refit road wheels.
Check condition of tyres if uneven wear recommend wheel alignment check.
VEHICLE ON GROUND
Inspect bodywork for corrosion, stone chips, damage or contamination (every 2 years except E30).
Check fluid level concentration of screen wash reservoir.
Refill engine oil.
Refill automatic transmission oil.
Remove spark plugs.
Check and adjust valve clearances. Replace rocker cover gasket.
Renew spark plugs.
Lubricate door mechanism hinges.
Replace Micro-filter and active carbon filter (if applicable) in heating/air con system.
Replace air recirculation filter: Every 2nd inspection II (if applicable).
E31 only: Clean intake-air separator in front of intake air silencer.
Renew air intake filter.
Check P.A.S hose clips for tightness & P.A.S fluid level.
Check brake system connections including ABS for tightness and positioning.
Lubricate throttle linkages and gate mechanisms on Carburettor models.
Check clutch hose connections for tightness and positioning.
Check clutch fluid level.
Check brake fluid level (renew fluid every 2 years, 750i annually).
Check battery acid level.
Carry out battery condition check, use battery test report.
Check condition/tightness coolant hoses.
Check tension/condition of all V belts (except M70 engine).
Replace all V belts E34/M5 only (S38 engine).
Check coolant level and consentration (renew every 3 years)(M3/M5 every 2 years).
Self levelling suspension: check fluid level.
Check spare wheel condition.
Check wheel stud torque and tyre pressures.
Check intensive cleaner level.
Check correct operation of lambda probe.
Replace fire extinguisher cartridge annually.
E36 M3 only: Renew throttle valve potentiometer.
ADDITIONAL ITEM EVERY 36000 MILES OR 3 YEARS
Replace toothed cambelt M20 & M40 engines.
ENGINE TEST
Cars with distributor; check the dwell angle and adjust ignition timing if necessary.
Call up information on defects stored in diagnosis system.
Check EML safety path circuit.
Check idle speed except on vehicles with idle speed control.
Check CO reading (except catalyst version).
CHECK OPERATION OF LIGHTS WITH ASSISTANT
FRONT
Side lights.
Dipped beam.
Main beam.
Headlight flasher.
Foglights/Driving lights.
Indicators and side repeaters.
Hazard warning flashers.
Parking lights.
Check beam settings.
REAR
Side lights
Number plate light.
Brake lights.
Reversing lights.
Fog lights.
Indicators.
Hazard warning flashers.
Boot interior lamp.
INTERIOR
Interior and reading lights.
Ashtray lights.
Glovebox light.
Panel lights including dimmer.
Clock light.
Switches and heater control lighting.
Check all warning lights including Active check control.
Check operation of heater/vent controls and blower.
Check operation of door mirrors.
Check horn all segments.
Check operation of sunroof.
Check operation of convertable roof. (Mmmmm).
Check condition, operation of seat belts.
Check wipers, blades, jet aim on windscreen and headlight washer systems.
Check engine compartment light.
Check door, bonnet & boot locks and striker plates adjustment and lubrication.
ROAD TEST
Check engine operation.
Check clutch operation.
Check transmission operation including EH gearbox.
Check steering operation.
Check steering wheel alignment.
Check foot brake operation.
Check handbrake balance-on cars fitted with rear discs: bed in handbrake.
Check wheel balance.
Check propshaft balance.
Check speedometer operation.
Check distance and trip recorder operation.
Check engine revolution counter operation.
Check temperature gauge operation.
Check fuel gauge operation.
Check fuel consumption gauge operation.
Check heater/air conditioning operation.
Check on-board computer operation including head-up display.
Check for wind noise, rattles etc.
FINAL ITEMS
Check ATF level
Activate Service interval indicator
Ensure handbook service record is completed.
Comments
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I oersonally would also change the ATF and the filter in the 5HP30.

[ParkeyOh]

Oh boy, got a long time ahead of me lol.
Shogun if I am doing the valve cover gasket, water pump, fan clutch. Is there anything else I should do while doing those? I was thinking valley pan. But want to get everything done in there and not worry about pulling most of the too end again for a while.

Also I'm not sure how long the car sat, a little back story. I thought it possibly sat at least a year. Guy died 6 months ago. Last inspection was 10/2018.

I was cleaning the car a little and noticed a service sticker inside the door. 10/2004. Car had 103k miles then. So the car has 109k now. So in the past 15 years only 6k miles were put on. He bought a brand new truck in 2005. So I'm not sure if he just severely cut down on driving or what. I am going to contact his daughters to see if they may know if it was sitting for years or not.

[paulmer]

Welcome aboard mate. I'm not sure if you want to tackle the valley pan job as a "while I'm in there" kind of task. I've heard from others it isn't fun. Maybe for your sanity as a new owner, might be better to stick with purely necessary jobs. Besides..on your car, it's so easy to take off the intake manifold anyway..

Probably a good idea to stick with an Inspection II list like Shogun said above, but I would definitely make sure to flush and bleed your brakes. If the car has sat that long, I'm sure they have plenty of water in them, could be a safety hazard.

If you are doing valve cover gaskets, it is a good idea to change your ignition coil boots. There is a newer design now which seals better. The ones on your car are probably the original style..and might have cracked plastic at the end. Aside from causing problems if your VGC is leaking oil, this can also cause problems as water can get in there, and compromise the spark, leading to drivability/performance issues.

I would also advocate for pulling your intake manifold (rather easy job) and sending the fuel injectors out for a service. Then reassemble with new intake manifold gaskets, orings, etc. It will feel like a new car after!
BTW, also consider getting the billet throttle bushing pieces you see online. It's ridiculous how much of an improvement they give. And then match that up with a Dinan ECU chip & clean injectors & re-sealed intake manifold?

3x edit -- if you are going to do a water pump, make sure to change the thermostat, and all of the coolant hoses and pipes. The cooling system is definitely a weak point on these cars that has caused innumerable flat-bed tows..

[moroza]

Spark plugs: use NGK BKR6EK, not Bosch or any others.

If doing the valley pan, also do the intake manifold gaskets. Use Reinz or genuine. Inspect or smoke-test the intake and see what else is leaking; PCV plates, throttlebody profile gaskets, and especially the main intake duct can cause unmetered air leaks.

If the thermostat works, IMO there's no need to replace it. Make sure the thermostat housing is a genuine metal one - not plastic, not Uro.

Cooling systems are indeed a weak point. To do it Properly, replace everything with rubber or plastic: radiator, tank, hoses, heatercore, heatervalve, aux waterpump (which can also be deleted, though your heat will be mediocre at idle). You can replace the radiator with an all-metal E36 piece, though I recommend against Mishimoto for their frequent quality control issues.

Sitting that long takes its toll on rubber. The dual fuel filter setup is unnecessary (one big one is enough, as later and bigger-displacement cars prove) and all those tight hose bends and junctions are leaks waiting to happen. Consider preventatively replacing the rubber fuel lines. For the same reason, mentally prepare for significant suspension work before too long.

Flush the brake fluid and inspect all six hoses for cracks.

Drop the lower oilpan, check the oilpump mounting bolts, and put threadlocker on them. The M60's are known to back out.

Rust? Carefully inspect (including the upper side) of the hard brake and fuel pipes that run to the back, and prepare to replace with good used, new, or fabricated (it's not hard) ones.