Failing manual M3 gearbox

[snaponbob]

I know that the Getrag 6 speed in the E46 M3 is not known to be rugged. Here is a question --- what are the first symptoms of impending failure? I have seen/heard how Getrag 260s die, and IF a ZF320 lets go, it is usually a massive internal failure -- but rare. I am having issues with a friend's gearbox after a clutch failure at an SCCA TNiA event. This is what I sent to a friend;

Clutch friction material separated from disc at Heartland TNiA.
Still driveable, but 1st and 2nd now stubborn and 1st is grinding
Replaced flywheel, clutch kit, master, and slave with all new LUK parts -- same as removed. Replaced the pivot with a bronze one, and new clutch fork.
All assembled properly and torqued to specs.
Pressure bled the system. Pedal low. Hand pumped the slave and reinstalled. Better. Had helper pump the pedal to assure no air in the hydraulics.
Pedal starts to slowly engage about 2" off the floor.
My M3 (three months older 04 model) engages about 3" off of the floor.
I know these are "glass" gearboxes compared to ZF320s. I know how E30 five speeds fail, and know the symptoms and sounds the exhibit. However, I have no clue as to how determine if the 6 speed is failing or not.

Any input will be appreciated.

BTW, I have been working on 30s, 36s, 46s, and a few other models for the past 12 years, and hardly my first clutch job.

[asianvenom]

This sounds to me like you still have bleeding problem...takes me a few bleeds to get pedal feel back...what I found works is 2 man bleeding procedure...push pedal, bleed the valve, close it, let go the pedal, press the pedal bleed the valve, close it and so on like a good 5 cycle. The idea is to put the clutch system under pressure, when you open the bleeder fluid rush out along with the air bubble.

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[snaponbob]

This sounds to me like you still have bleeding problem...takes me a few bleeds to get pedal feel back...what I found works is 2 man bleeding procedure...push pedal, bleed the valve, close it, let go the pedal, press the pedal bleed the valve, close it and so on like a good 5 cycle. The idea is to put the clutch system under pressure, when you open the bleeder fluid rush out along with the air bubble.

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As I said, I have done this for YEARS. If you'll reread my post, I covered this. As a matter of fact, I have been "bleeding" the system in a multitude of manners for over 4 hours. Over the years I have done scores of BMW clutch jobs on 30s, 36s, 46s, and 90s.

My bigger concern is how to determine if I am dealing with a failing transmission. First and second are exhibiting "issues" while the first are fine. That's covered in the original post. So is the pedal travel on this car and MY M3. And these gearboxes is why my S54 swapped Sport Touring has a ZF320 in it, and not the M3 six speed.

[asianvenom]

Sorry man I do feel your frustration, but I have never heard anyone with getrag in the s54 failing...clunky yes...drop out of gear due to compression spring yeah...but never any major failure

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[snaponbob]

I swapped an S54 into my 01 Sport Touring. The doner 02 M3 had lost reverse and three forward gears. I used a ZF320 because they just practically never fail.

AAMOF, a lot of people running S54s in 36s and 46s run ZF320s BECAUSE the 6 speeds fail so often.

[asianvenom]

I know you're solely after what's the indication of failing tranny. One thing you didn't mention but worth looking at is your pedal. My e36 m3 had low engagement problem no matter how I bleeded. The pedal hole where the master cylinder mount to weared out the pedal into an oval hole causing my low engagement grinding problem.

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