Project: 'Barn Find' - 1995 Avus Blue M3

[jaysonx]

Happy New Year everyone! I received a delivery today which is too cool not to share. Being that I decided to replace the bearings and hubs at all 4 corners - and that I greatly prefer wheel studs to bolts, I decided to have some pressed-in studs courtesy of Core 4 motorsports w. MSI hardware (commonly run by IMSA teams/others). The bullet nose on this hardware is super duper nice. Can't wait to install.

[JitteryJoe]

Pretty cool. I guess the questions is, which last longer, the studs or the bearings. Maybe it doesn't matter as they will both outlast the owner.

Love the car. Thanks for posting!

[jaysonx]

Pretty cool. I guess the questions is, which last longer, the studs or the bearings. Maybe it doesn't matter as they will both outlast the owner.

Love the car. Thanks for posting!

If I still have the car, ill update in 25 years.

[E85STI]

I love seeing nice new shiny parts like these

Been busy lately but I need to get back to my project car soon.

[Johal E32]

Nice! Tom and the guys at Core 4 are legit. I just installed a set of their MSI Studs/hubs on my car recently and I love the build quality.

Did you opt for the floating collar lug nuts or standard lug nuts?

[jaysonx]

Nice! Tom and the guys at Core 4 are legit. I just installed a set of their MSI Studs/hubs on my car recently and I love the build quality.

Did you opt for the floating collar lug nuts or standard lug nuts?

They are out of stock on the lugs at the moment - but the floating collar ones are really darn cool. I got a little bit of time to decide.

[Veleno]

Happy New Year everyone! I received a delivery today which is too cool not to share. Being that I decided to replace the bearings and hubs at all 4 corners - and that I greatly prefer wheel studs to bolts, I decided to have some pressed-in studs courtesy of Core 4 motorsports w. MSI hardware (commonly run by IMSA teams/others). The bullet nose on this hardware is super duper nice. Can't wait to install.

I know the answer to this but thought I'd ask anyway. Did you (or anyone else) consider a different bolt pattern on the new hubs, say 5x114 to get more options for wheels? I came across a guy who offers this service and wondered if anyone has done it (search came up with very few leads).

[jaysonx]

I know the answer to this but thought I'd ask anyway. Did you (or anyone else) consider a different bolt pattern on the new hubs, say 5x114 to get more options for wheels? I came across a guy who offers this service and wondered if anyone has done it (search came up with very few leads).

Interesting Q. Wasn't a consideration for me as I love the DS1's. However, I am trying to see what brake kits I can squeeze in there without having to run too ridiculous of a spacer.

[scoobiedoo2029]

I know the answer to this but thought I'd ask anyway. Did you (or anyone else) consider a different bolt pattern on the new hubs, say 5x114 to get more options for wheels? I came across a guy who offers this service and wondered if anyone has done it (search came up with very few leads).

any competent machinist could do this, but without machining a whole new hub its kinda a cluster%^#@, the costs will be higher then a set of wheels that fit, and you can replace wheels.


what i am surprised ive never seen is machining low offset wheels to high offset by hacking off the hub face. of all the stupid things people do with wheels, i havent seen this, i always thought about this when i saw e39 style 5's on e36's. if someone just hacked off around 15mm from the center they could fit normal tires.

[jaysonx]

Just a few quick winter updates from the arctic northeast. Been refinishing some parts in my spare time (indoors).

Completely disassembled and refinished the rear trailing arms and front knuckles. This took way more effort that I would have anticipated, but the end results are worth it.




Both front door cards have finally arrived, after quite a long wait




Axle rebuild has been a fun side project


I'll start the reassembly process on the arms & knuckles here soon. Currently pondering some brake kit options which could have implications on what I end up doing w the dust shields. More to come!

[RBNetEngr]

I know you said you didn’t want to cut speaker holes in the door panels (I waited a few months, to get up the nerve), but when I was ready to do it, I bought this to cut the holes:

https://www.harborfreight.com/carbid...ter-68117.html

It’s nice because the size is infinitely adjustable, so you can get the exact hole sizes that you want.

I used one of my old door panels to cut some practice holes, to know what to expect. When I cut them, I did them from the back side, after marking the center of the holes, where the drill is centered.

For the mirror control, I drilled several holes around the perimeter of the rectangular hole, then used this bit with my Dremel to cut the hole:

https://us.dremel.com/en_US/products...se-cutting-bit

I found the Dremel bit at Home Depot:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1...g-561/20226317

-rb

[sirhodjibob]

Can't beat fresh door panels. Looks great.

[marek]

I know you said you didn’t want to cut speaker holes in the door panels (I waited a few months, to get up the nerve), but when I was ready to do it, I bought this to cut the holes:

https://www.harborfreight.com/carbid...ter-68117.html

It’s nice because the size is infinitely adjustable, so you can get the exact hole sizes that you want.

I used one of my old door panels to cut some practice holes, to know what to expect. When I cut them, I did them from the back side, after marking the center of the holes, where the drill is centered.

For the mirror control, I drilled several holes around the perimeter of the rectangular hole, then used this bit with my Dremel to cut the hole:

https://us.dremel.com/en_US/products...se-cutting-bit

I found the Dremel bit at Home Depot:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1...g-561/20226317

-rb

I 2nd using the adjustable hole saw. I did the same on my new door panels and it came out perfect

[jaysonx]

I know you said you didn’t want to cut speaker holes in the door panels (I waited a few months, to get up the nerve), but when I was ready to do it, I bought this to cut the holes:

This is super helpful. In retrospect, one oversight I made was not running dedicated wiring and provisions for an enhanced audio system when I had the interior and dash out. I should have tucked away an amp somewhere (hidden) in the trunk, ran all new speaker wire, and complimented it w a nice speaker setup from JL or Focal, all driven via a Blaupunkt Bremen SQR (which you can still find on Ebay). It would have been a great stealth setup that sounds MILES better than the OE audio. A nice stereo is part of the driving experience for me. Oh well - perhaps in the future.

Can't beat fresh door panels. Looks great.

They really do! Glad that I was able to snag them, as I suspect these will be NLA pretty soon. Crazy that it took so long for them to get to me though!

[ChuckDizzle]

This is super helpful. In retrospect, one oversight I made was not running dedicated wiring and provisions for an enhanced audio system when I had the interior and dash out. I should have tucked away an amp somewhere (hidden) in the trunk, ran all new speaker wire, and complimented it w a nice speaker setup from JL or Focal, all driven via a Blaupunkt Bremen SQR (which you can still find on Ebay). It would have been a great stealth setup that sounds MILES better than the OE audio. A nice stereo is part of the driving experience for me. Oh well - perhaps in the future.




They really do! Glad that I was able to snag them, as I suspect these will be NLA pretty soon. Crazy that it took so long for them to get to me though!

That Blaupunkt would look great in the E36, it almost looks a factory replacement.

[E85STI]

This is super helpful. In retrospect, one oversight I made was not running dedicated wiring and provisions for an enhanced audio system when I had the interior and dash out. I should have tucked away an amp somewhere (hidden) in the trunk, ran all new speaker wire, and complimented it w a nice speaker setup from JL or Focal, all driven via a Blaupunkt Bremen SQR (which you can still find on Ebay). It would have been a great stealth setup that sounds MILES better than the OE audio. A nice stereo is part of the driving experience for me. Oh well - perhaps in the future.




They really do! Glad that I was able to snag them, as I suspect these will be NLA pretty soon. Crazy that it took so long for them to get to me though!

I really like the look of this head unit.

[jaysonx]

Question for the experts here. I just finished pressing in all the bushings/ball joints on my rear trailing arms. Regarding the RTAB, is there a specific specification for how much of the metal sleeve should be sticking out on either side? These newer bushings are a different design than the bracketed type that I took off (and I neglected to measure the 'gap'). Should they just be as centered as possible? I'll be doing the proper preload procedure on reinstall and obviously, the entire rear end is going to need an alignment regardless. Thoughts appreciated!

[RBNetEngr]

I checked Bentley, and it says to draw the RTAB in to the same depth/position as the one that was previously in there. Not very useful!

I installed Bimmerworld trailing arm bearing set rather than rubber bushings. One big benefit is not needing to deal with bushing preload.



https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensi...aring-Kit.html


-rb

[jaysonx]

I checked Bentley, and it says to draw the RTAB in to the same depth/position as the one that was previously in there. Not very useful!

Yes, I saw the same, what a cop out! lol. That bimmerworld part looks nice - more robust and no added NVH. Hrmmm.

[bluptgm3]

I checked Bentley, and it says to draw the RTAB in to the same depth/position as the one that was previously in there. Not very useful!
-rb

Right. The TIS instruction images below highlight what I believe is the flanged RTAB in a non-“M” RTA.
Bentley manual mirrors the TIS instruction. As I recall the non-“M” bushing boss is not as tall or thick as an “M” arm. The flanged RTABushing was fully seated on an “M” RTA ‘boss’. As I recall there is/was a gap between the flange of the RTABushing and the narrower/thinner non-“M” RTA ‘boss’ in several of the R-n-R installations I have accomplished. The last one I have done was a set of the new style non-flanged RTABs into M3 RTAs, we had to do it at least twice in order to get the position correct for the alignment.

Regarding the RTAB, is there a specific specification for how much of the metal sleeve should be sticking out on either side? These newer bushings are a different design than the bracketed type that I took off (and I neglected to measure the 'gap'). Should they just be centered… obviously, the entire rear end is going to need an alignment regardless.

You will certainly know during alignment, good opportunity for feedback.




Also seems like standard, ‘sport’ and “M3” ride heights would require different installation RTABushing Body Bracket installation orientation angle.

Section 330-11 mentions the use of BMW Circolight lubricant. I found this note -

P-80 Emulsion Temporary Assembly Lubricant alternative to BMW Circolight.
Used this to help install my BMW's differential and subframe rubber bushings. It really helped reduce the force needed to install and I know they're seated without damage. I used this in place of what BMW calls "circolight" in the TIS. They suggest using it on several bushings and it's not possible to find. This seems like a great alternative.

[jaysonx]

OK, I was able to dig up this old thread:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...87#post2170687

Note: Here’s what I found after doing 12 E36s: the 93-95 E36s had about a 1/16” gap where as the 96-99 E36s had no gap i.e. the RTAB flange was flush with the trailing arm.

Since this bushing design is now different, I have no idea how that translates. Maybe I am just overthinking it all (quite possible). However, if that data is to be used, I am thinking I should press the bushing in a bit more.

[RBNetEngr]

Well, there are some aftermarket RTABs (like Rogue Engineering, but there are others) that provide either a centered RTAB mounting, or one that can be shifted inward or outward a bit. The description claims that it allows you to add more or less toe range, depending on the offset.

The RTABs I removed (originals, from a 10/94 build ‘95) had a lip on the outside, so they could only be removed in one direction. And the lip was fully seated against the trailing arm.

If you can’t find any specifics numbers, I would think it is safe to seat the RTABs centered in the trailing arm. The range of toe adjustment you will need can be accomplished via the front trailing arm mounts. If the RTABs are shifted to the outside, that would reduce static toe, and shifting them inward would add more static toe. This is in addition to the toe range provided by the front mounting brackets.

If you read the detailed description for the Rogue RTABs:

https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...TAB_p_303.html

It indicates that a centered RTAB is standard.


-rb

[jaysonx]

If you can’t find any specifics numbers, I would think it is safe to seat the RTABs centered in the trailing arm. The range of toe adjustment you will need can be accomplished via the front trailing arm mounts. If the RTABs are shifted to the outside, that would reduce static toe, and shifting them inward would add more static toe. This is in addition to the toe range provided by the front mounting brackets.

I agree, I think the 'guideline' for the spacing was just to ensure you didn't throw the toe too far out of wack from the factory setting. I suspect that as long as the bushing is in the approx vicinity then the range of toe will still be adjusted via the eccentric bolts. I'll be doing a rough 0 toe calibration in my garage using string/jack stands after the install, then will take it to get a proper alignment at a euro-specific shop near me.

[jaysonx]

This week we are having milder weather, so I took the opportunity to remove the transmission. I used an engine support bar from Harbor Freight, dropped the lower subframe, and supported everything with a floor jack + lumber. I removed the front fan to ensure nothing crashed into the radiator and monitored the positioning on the rear of the engine so that it did not crunch into the firewall. With this method, I was able to get a pretty good angle to get all of the bolts undone. Even though the engine was properly secured up top + a jack underneath, there is potential to seriously break some stuff (including yourself) if you are not very careful. I don't think I would recommend this method, but the transmission did wiggle free pretty easily, with the top dowel being somewhat troublesome (seized). Some PB blaster cleared that up pretty quickly. Gravity also helped a bit. Overall it wasn't pretty, but mission accomplished. I was worried about handling the weight of the trans itself, but I found it remarkably easy to manipulate.


Maximum positive castor transmission mod...


Clutch w 170k Miles, looks like it had quite a bit left


Pressure Plate


Flywheel


Trans will get a proper cleaning




Bell housing looks good


Even the plastic pivot pin is pretty intact


No idea what this is, but it was floating in the bottom of the bellhousing


In my communication with the previous owner, he indicated that the clutch has never been serviced. The overall condition of all of these parts tells me that this car was not beat on at all. It gives me a lot of confidence in the overall condition of the engine. Since the trans is out and it will likely be a few months before I reinstall (not sitting out in the cold), I am considering having it soda or walnut blasted to clean up the exterior. If any of you guys have done similar I would appreciate any thoughts.

Oh and bonus, I ordered the July 1994 issue of Car and Driver. I actually had this new in 1994 when I was a mere high schooler - it is when I first learned about M cars.

[craigjimc]

Perhaps your "Mystery Part" is the inner piston from a blown up slave cylinder?