Front suspension refresh/replacement. Help with sequence.

[Green95M3]

This week, I am going to be replacing just about everything on the front suspension: shocks, control arms, FCAB's, tie rods/boots, stabilizer links, stabilizer bushings, flux capacitor etc.

I am trying to plan my attack and I'm not sure what order to do things in. I am planning to do one side at a time, unless that is ill advised.

It probably doesn't make sense to take every thing off before replacing parts because then the hub will just be hanging.

Here's what I'm thinking:

1. remove & replace strut & related parts (spring seats,bump stops etc.)
2. remove & replace control arm & FCAB
3. replace stabilizer links & bushings
4. replace tie rods

Does this sequence work or should I do it differently?

Would any of these parts be easier to replace with a specific other part removed? For example, would the tie rods be easier to replace with the control arm off? That kind of thing.

Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks

[82bmw633]

I would disconnect the tie rod from the hub, then remove the sway bar links, then the control arm, and then the strut. Installation would be the reverse.

I did a complete front end refresh on my E39 and this was pretty much the process I used.

[bluptgm3]

I would do the strut replacement first so that the spindle/King Pin is stable during attachment of spindle-to-strut.
Then your choice of tie rod or FLCA/FLCAB.
New FLCABs need to be pressed into the ‘lollipop’, then ‘lollipop’ installed on FLCA, I have done it with a deep socket and dead blow hammer, but now use a tool to pull them into place.

Use new paper body gaskets p/n 31331094288 and Securing Plates for Tire Rods p/n 32111140464.

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[Mless5]

Jack up the nose of your car and place jack stands under both corners - don't try to lift and work one corner at a time.

[bluptgm3]

Jack up the nose of your car and place jack stands......don't try to lift and work one corner at a time.

Ya, otherwise you fight the sway bar the whole time.


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[Green95M3]

Thanks for all the replies. This is all very helpful.

I've been preparing for this for a long time, looking forward to getting it done.

The front shouldn't be too bad, not really looking forward to the rear! That'll happen later.

Thanks again!

[bluptgm3]

For the rear shock installation use the rear shock mounts (RSM) from Lemforder for the E46M3 Convertible, p/n 33526779670 Guide support.
Get the OE/OEM paper body gaskets, p/n 33526772864 Washer-gasket.
Use any one of the aftermarket RSM Reinforcement Plates.
Also OE Bump Stops and Dust shields.


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[Green95M3]

I finally finished the job. I planned on 2 days, and it took 3.5. Can't say I'm really surprised. Here's the order I went in: Remove & replace strut, then control arm, then tie rods.

When I removed the struts, I made a shocking discovery (pun intended): the bump stops were completely GONE! I'm guessing they dried up and crumbled off. Has anyone heard of this before? I may start a thread about this. Also, the pistons in the old Sachs struts had almost no resistance at all. They were completely shot.

Also, I measured the old tie rods and set the new ones to the exact same lengths, but the alignment was WAAAAAY off. The steering wheel was off 30° driving in a straight line to the alignment shop. Fortunately, the alignment took care of that. The front end feels great, just like it did 25 years ago! I'll tackle the rear in a couple weeks.

Here is the carnage:
OldParts2.jpgOldParts.jpg

Here are some shots of the new stuff:
NewParts.jpgNewParts2.jpg


Thanks again for the input!

[bluptgm3]

Not uncommon for the bump stops to be failing (or non existent.)

I will buy your old control arms if they are straight?
bluptgm32 -@- gmail.com

And your OE strut casings should be valuable to some one - Koni ‘Cut-n-Gut’.
Drill a 1/8” diameter hole in the bottom of strut casing to release the remaining fluid and cut the tops off (just past the crimps) with a Leslie 31500 exhaust cutoff tool to remove the guts and reduce the bulk/weight for shipping.




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[ax77]

I finally finished the job. I planned on 2 days, and it took 3.5. Can't say I'm really surprised. Here's the order I went in: Remove & replace strut, then control arm, then tie rods.

When I removed the struts, I made a shocking discovery (pun intended): the bump stops were completely GONE! I'm guessing they dried up and crumbled off. Has anyone heard of this before? I may start a thread about this. Also, the pistons in the old Sachs struts had almost no resistance at all. They were completely shot.

Also, I measured the old tie rods and set the new ones to the exact same lengths, but the alignment was WAAAAAY off. The steering wheel was off 30° driving in a straight line to the alignment shop. Fortunately, the alignment took care of that. The front end feels great, just like it did 25 years ago! I'll tackle the rear in a couple weeks.

Here is the carnage:
OldParts2.jpgOldParts.jpg

Here are some shots of the new stuff:
NewParts.jpgNewParts2.jpg


Thanks again for the input!

I'm currently installing a koni and eibach setup. My bump stops are almost gone and my oem original struts are pretty shot with 68k miles. I also found no trace of that gasket that goes in between the strut tower and the reinforcement plate.

[bluptgm3]

I also found no trace of that gasket that goes in between the strut tower and the reinforcement plate.

The original intended location of the paper body gasket (p/n 31331094288
Washer-Gasket) was between the Guide Support/Strut Mount:
1995M3 p/n 31332228345 L/R Guide support;
1996+M3 p/n 31332227897/31332227898 L/R Guide Support)
and the underside of the Strut Tower.

Looking at an early build 1995M3, the Reinforcement Plate (31312489795 Front Spring Strut Tower Reinforcement) was not included, even retrospectively.
I would use them to preserve the strut towers, especially if stepping to stiffer springs.


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[Scott M]

Just did the same job on my new-to-me car and my bumpstops were also gone. Car feels great now

[Green95M3]

Thanks for the post and congratulations.

I gave myself a week to enjoy the new front suspension, now I'm doing the rear. The front is a picnic in comparison.