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Thread: S50B30US NA rebuild for track car

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Talperian View Post
    The other is for my road race car "race engine", 89.6mm crank, 14:1 87mm bore (E85), CNC-ported head, 13.5mm lift cams, etc...
    This keeps getting better.... What cam are you using?

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allona View Post
    This keeps getting better.... What cam are you using?
    I'm starting with the 298/290 set, I have that on the shelf. I am working on a custom set from Cat, the intake cam is about 298 degrees in advertised duration, but 32 degrees from 0.1mm to 1mm of lift. 13.5mm peak.

    Fyi, at 36mm base circle you cant get much more than 12.5mm lift without the lobe hitting the cam tray. So 30.5mm is your max overall cam radius before you have to start relieving the tray.

    I am also not using the solid lifters with shim caps that go over the valves for my solid lifter conversion. I am using stock 35mm lifters that are converted to solid by using stackable machined shims that you install inside the lifter piston after you removed the spring/check valve guts of the factory lifter, made by my friend Perry.

    No machining involved, the shims are made in varying thicknesses so you just stack the right combo to get your desired valve lash clearance.
    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Talperian; 12-11-2020 at 12:19 AM.

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by Talperian View Post
    I'm starting with the 298/290 set, I have that on the shelf. I am working on a custom set from Cat, the intake cam is about 298 degrees in advertised duration, but 32 degrees from 0.1mm to 1mm of lift. 13.5mm peak.

    Fyi, at 36mm base circle you cant get much more than 12.5mm lift without the lobe hitting the cam tray. So 30.5mm is your max overall cam radius before you have to start relieving the tray.

    I am also not using the solid lifters with shim caps that go over the valves for my solid lifter conversion. I am using stock 35mm lifters that are converted to solid by using stackable machined shims that you install inside the lifter piston after you removed the spring/check valve guts of the factory lifter, made by my friend Perry Hubbling.

    No machining involved, the shims are made in varying thicknesses so you just stack the right combo to get your desired valve lash clearance.
    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
    I’d be a little worried going with Car cams considering the recent issues with s54 cams grenading
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
    ― George Orwell

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Talperian View Post
    I'm starting with the 298/290 set, I have that on the shelf. I am working on a custom set from Cat, the intake cam is about 298 degrees in advertised duration, but 32 degrees from 0.1mm to 1mm of lift. 13.5mm peak.

    Fyi, at 36mm base circle you cant get much more than 12.5mm lift without the lobe hitting the cam tray. So 30.5mm is your max overall cam radius before you have to start relieving the tray.

    I am also not using the solid lifters with shim caps that go over the valves for my solid lifter conversion. I am using stock 35mm lifters that are converted to solid by using stackable machined shims that you install inside the lifter piston after you removed the spring/check valve guts of the factory lifter, made by my friend Perry Hubbling.

    No machining involved, the shims are made in varying thicknesses so you just stack the right combo to get your desired valve lash clearance.
    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
    Solid Lifter Conversion


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluptgm3 View Post
    Solid Lifter Conversion


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Correct.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by GG///M3 View Post
    I’d be a little worried going with Car cams considering the recent issues with s54 cams grenading
    I haven't heard of the issues. Have a link? What was the cause of failure?

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Talperian View Post
    I haven't heard of the issues. Have a link? What was the cause of failure?

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
    https://youtu.be/pqIquM5BDrE
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
    ― George Orwell

  8. #108
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    This is the best NA thread I've seen in years! Wow!... the possibilities!

  9. #109
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    Yeah, good stuff ... there is lots of good knowledge floating out there for sure!

    Haven't heard of any issues with Cat cams ... but we do only have experiences with 2 sets so far!
    Check out the 8legs Racing page: https://www.facebook.com/8legsRacing/


  10. #110
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    A friend of mine helped me stop worrying. 11.5:1, .020 off the head & block, stock cams... what are you worrying about? You got a programmable ECU... the tuner will make sure it runs. So yeah, I'm good now.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimmerboy318 View Post
    A friend of mine helped me stop worrying. 11.5:1, .020 off the head & block, stock cams... what are you worrying about? You got a programmable ECU... the tuner will make sure it runs. So yeah, I'm good now.
    Which exhaust setup will you be running on this again ?
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
    ― George Orwell

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by GG///M3 View Post
    Which exhaust setup will you be running on this again ?
    OBD2 exhaust manifold, OBD1 mid-pipe, UUC cat back. Not ideal. But long tubes and the custom fab work that goes with them are not in my budget this year. Is there a better bolt on solution?

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Talperian View Post
    I'm starting with the 298/290 set, I have that on the shelf. I am working on a custom set from Cat, the intake cam is about 298 degrees in advertised duration, but 32 degrees from 0.1mm to 1mm of lift. 13.5mm peak.

    Fyi, at 36mm base circle you cant get much more than 12.5mm lift without the lobe hitting the cam tray. So 30.5mm is your max overall cam radius before you have to start relieving the tray.

    I am also not using the solid lifters with shim caps that go over the valves for my solid lifter conversion. I am using stock 35mm lifters that are converted to solid by using stackable machined shims that you install inside the lifter piston after you removed the spring/check valve guts of the factory lifter, made by my friend Perry Hubbling.

    No machining involved, the shims are made in varying thicknesses so you just stack the right combo to get your desired valve lash clearance.
    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
    Reusing the hydro lifter and using stacable shims seems a lot easier method for adjusting valve lash, thanks for sharing.

    Keep us posted on the custom cam you are working on. Seems you will reduce the overlap and increase lift, so you will increase dynamic compression?

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimmerboy318 View Post
    OBD2 exhaust manifold, OBD1 mid-pipe, UUC cat back. Not ideal. But long tubes and the custom fab work that goes with them are not in my budget this year. Is there a better bolt on solution?
    I have been running ebay long tubes for years in my race car, happy with the performance on my 2.8L engine, 264hp on Mustang dyno (with 1.23 correction to mimic a Dynojet per the shop owner). That said, I plan to buy new headers for the new build....any budget consious suggestions from the group? I am on the loookout for used Kromerkrafts....
    Last edited by Allona; 12-10-2020 at 09:03 AM.

  15. #115
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    S50B30US NA rebuild for track car

    Quote Originally Posted by bimmerboy318 View Post
    OBD2 exhaust manifold, OBD1 mid-pipe, UUC cat back. Not ideal. But long tubes and the custom fab work that goes with them are not in my budget this year. Is there a better bolt on solution?
    I’d suggest raceland euro m3 SS reps, and ecs has some crazy sales on euro m3 SS midpipes (25% off), and if you can swing it the race muffler . My last s50 made 245whp and 240wtq without cams.
    Last edited by GG///M3; 12-10-2020 at 10:17 AM.
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
    ― George Orwell

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by GG///M3 View Post
    I’d suggest raceland euro m3 SS reps, and ecs has some crazy sales on euro m3 SS midpipes (25% off), and if you can swing it the race muffler . My last s50 made 245whp and 240wtq without cams.
    What intake setup and injectors were you using?

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimmerboy318 View Post
    What intake setup and injectors were you using?
    Afe intake euro maf, and 24lb injectors
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
    ― George Orwell

  18. #118
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    "I’d suggest raceland euro m3 SS reps"

    I get lost in the naming convention.

    The raceland site has one set of E36 headers,
    https://raceland.com/product/bmw-e36...haust-headers/

    So, are these considered "euro M3 SS reps"?

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by aeronaut View Post
    "I’d suggest raceland euro m3 SS reps"

    I get lost in the naming convention.

    The raceland site has one set of E36 headers,
    https://raceland.com/product/bmw-e36...haust-headers/

    So, are these considered "euro M3 SS reps"?
    Correct
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
    ― George Orwell

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by GG///M3 View Post
    Correct
    Thanks, I might add this to my to-do list, that's now 3 months long. lol.

  21. #121
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    By far the best bang for the buck on those headers ... we have the real SS ones as well as the Raceland, and other than some small "because china" issues, they are a perfect copy. They also make great power for a tack engine in higher RPMs.

    Get a nice Y collector into a 3" pipe, add in a Magnaflow 4x10 muffler at the end, you're good to go. Do not put the muffler in the middle. It does fit, but it does not last ... too much pressure and heat, so it get blown out and becomes a metal rattling can, lol.

    Another edit: The flanges on the headers suck. We cut them off, then use a slip joint on the Y collector, with some header springs from a motorcycle shop ... works perfectly, and takes 2 minutes to remove the exhaust.
    Last edited by ScotcH; 12-11-2020 at 10:56 AM.
    Check out the 8legs Racing page: https://www.facebook.com/8legsRacing/


  22. #122
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    Awesome! Thanks.
    Currently running BW Y-pipe to 3" custom with resonator and some random magniflow muffler. So, yea, Y collector to a 3" is what I'd do.
    Love the idea of slip-joint with the old 2-stroke-collector springs idea!!!

  23. #123
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    Let's talk about gall plates... you know, the giant washer like disc for aluminum flywheels? Do I need on my ClutchMax lightweight steel flywheel? Or really just for the aluminum ones?

    01AFF7C5-7FCA-4C16-8229-85B0C9FA698D by D S, on Flickr

  24. #124
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    S50B30US NA rebuild for track car

    Can’t hurt, however it is typically to prevent damage to the (softer) aluminum FW during installation/application of torque of the attach bolts to prevent galling of the aluminum surface.


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    Last edited by bluptgm3; 12-17-2020 at 12:24 AM.

  25. #125
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    We don't use one on out tilton steel flywheels
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