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Thread: E39 Radio Harness adapter issues and fuse issue, Help!

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    2002 BMW 530i

    Angry E39 Radio Harness adapter issues and fuse issue, Help!

    I have a 2002 530i bmw, I got it for a steal from my neighbor because he upgraded to a 04 540i and let this one sit for two years. Unfortunately the radio in it does not work it has power but only the backlight comes on, and fuse 56 in the trunk consistently blows the second you put it in.

    Initially I figured the head unit had a short in it so I did some research ordered a new head unit and what I thought was the correct harness adapter, as you can see in the picture I was wrong.
    The harness on the car does not match the adapter I bought and I cant seem to find the correct one anywhere! If someone could link me to the correct adapter along with the antenna adapter that would be awesome. My main question is does this mean I have a dsp or an amp? I don't have a dsp button but there is a button that says dsc does this matter ? Also even with the radio out the the radio fuse in the trunk still blows so maybe there's an amp that's bad ? and the connector on the side of the head unit piece that has the audio knob aka not the cd changer half has this connector.

    It says amp and a bunch of numbers on the side so idk what this is for or if I need to reuse it maybe its connected to the main radio connector or an amp even if there is one?

    Any help is greatly appreciated!

  2. #2
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    ignore this info ->From what I remember, If your amp is non-painted metal, it's non-dsp. If it's painted black, it's DSP. Just google image search "non-dsp e39 amp" or "dsp e39 amp" <-ignore this info

    Here are the wiring items I bought for my 2003. I had the non dsp system.

    Harness
    https://www.crutchfield.com/S-ruFlMe...g-Harness.html
    Antenna adapter
    https://www.crutchfield.com/S-IqMGaWXJJmq/p_12040EU10/Metra-40-EU10-Antenna-Adapter.html



    Here are wiring diagrams for the radio.
    https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ation-systems/
    Last edited by waters17; 09-22-2020 at 08:35 PM. Reason: bad info
    2003 540i/6

  3. #3
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    99 528iTA
    My amp is black and is non DSP

  4. #4
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    Have you unplugged the 12 pin Amp connector and the connector to the cd changer in the trunk to see if the fuse stops blowing? That 30A fuse powers those also.
    Last edited by JimLev; 09-23-2020 at 08:30 AM.

  5. #5
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    There is no cd changer in the trunk the cd player is part of the head unit, and by 12pin amp connector do you mean the one that went to the lower snap in piece of the radio or is there another one I dont know about. if there is an amp where would it be located I can start by unplugging it and see if that fixes the fuse issue. I have tried swapping the fuse since taking out and unplugging the head unit but it still pops. P.s. i found the correct adapters finally just now have to sort out accessory power.

  6. #6
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    So I did some digging and found this
    021D29A1-7F25-4E6F-AE96-F79801C45722.jpg
    What I'm assuming is the amp, I disconnected the connector on the left and tried replacing the fuse but no luck. The fuse continues to blow, I could not get the connector on the right out so it maybe still causing the short. Tomorrow I'm gonna get some help removing it and see if that stops the fuse from blowing, if so can it be bypassed or replaced and dose that mean this car has a dsp?

    Also I got the correct adapters for the harness in but I've run into a slight issue as you can see in this photo.
    62A90AF1-03DE-47E8-8899-C0FE6F30E55E.jpg
    This adapter has the switched aka ignition power pin removed and separated, as its also for some Audis and vws which don't have that wire. But it includes a power wire with pin to be inserted. so I need to figure out which pin it is, I did some reading and it says that it is pin next to ground below the 12v constant wire and on the BMW its a purple wire. But I checked when I went looking for the amp in the first pic, and the wire there is purple and white. Plus I did not have my keys on me so I could not check with my voltmeter, I will next time though but I don't know if it will be any use as the 12v constant wire had no power when I checked it with the voltmeter. I assume due to the blown fuse, unless 12v acc/ignition gets power regardless.

    Other that this fuse issue and the 12v acc/igntion the radio is ready to go in, I just want to make sure everything is going to work first.

  7. #7
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    The 12 pin connector that you couldn’t pull out is the one that powers the amp. Squeeze the ends together, rock it back and forth to pull it out. Use pliers if you have too.

  8. #8
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    Im messing with that one right now on the plus side I tested the switched power and I Was correct it is the purple and white one that is switched power it has 14v when the car is switched on.

  9. #9
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    The white wire is the switched power that turns the amp on.
    The Red/Grn wire is the constant 12 volts.

    Amp2.JPG

  10. #10
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    Great news!!! I got the other connector out, after chewing it up with channel locks. I pried the connector tab loose with a flathead.
    42F76518-A9A4-46B2-9510-78AFD2775115.jpg
    So I went ahead and put a new fuse in the 56 spot and bingo no more short the fuse no longer pops. Just to confirm I checked the 12v constant rail on the radio harness and sure enough 12v!

    Side note I had my keys with me so I checked the 12v acc/switched wire and it was in fact the one I thought. The purple and white wire so now I know to stick the 12v pin there.

    So now my question is can I bypass the amp my buddy said something about bridging the speaker wires? Or do I have to use an amp and if so where should I go to get one?

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