Hi all,
First post here.
I am seeking some advice on basically whether or not to replace my transmission (ZF S5D 320Z). I am aware of issues it has, and I have several options but I am not sure what to do.
I have owned a 1998 M3 Sedan 5 speed for just about a year. It is my first manual car. It has 180k miles and the original drivetrain. I replaced the guibo this spring and I have not done any fluid changes on the transmission.
Since I bought the car it has been difficult to shift into 1st and 3rd gears. I thought it was just bad shifter bushings causing the difficulty but after having a mechanic who has owned and raced e36's drive it we determined the clutch pivot fork to be flattened. I have essentially been forcing it into gear for a long time, and occasionally the gears have ground when shifting into 3rd. I have been careful recently to not force it into 1st gear and shifting slowly into 3rd has worked to stop any grinding there. This week I heard grinding while shifting into 1st (one of the first times this has happened). The clutch pin is adjusted as far down as it will go. Shifts into 1st are easy when the car is off.
Is it bad to continue to use the current transmission if the pivot pin is replaced? Will any grinding continue to happen if there is already wear on the synchros? I am trying to avoid paying to have the transmission out two times, but I am willing to make it work myself if the transmission is on its way out already.
OPTION 1
To do a total transmission/clutch service at the shop will cost $$$$ because the shop recommends a pressure plate + flywheel and master cylinder since the car has been driven with a small clutch gap for so long. The clutch is somewhat worn and would be replaced then too.
If the sychros have ground a few times already, will fixing the pivot pin and other components alleviate any future strain on the transmission or should I go ahead and start looking for a replacement transmission to go in when I have the car serviced? I do not want to complete the service only to have the transmission continue to deteriorate or occasionally grind due to existing internal wear.
OPTION 2
I also have the option of putting off the major service and simply replacing the pivot pin and shifter bushings + detent pins myself. I have the skills to do this. Money is tight and the M3 is my second car so I can put off the clutch/MC service until absolutely necessary. I don't feel entirely comfortable performing the master cylinder service myself and I honestly do not have that much knowledge of the hydraulic system or how "worn" it actually is from operating with the pedal adjustment pin maxed out for so long.
Apologies for the length of this and any terminology I might have gotten wrong. I have a pretty good mechanical understanding but I might have said some stuff incorrectly.
Thanks for any advice,
Harrison
Does it do it more readily when car is warm?
Have you considered changing the clutch line and a good fresh bleed?
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
It does have a harder time when the car is warm, usually it is worse if I come to a stop quickly or if I coast to a stop in neutral and then try to put it in gear. I'll look into clutch bleeding/lines.
If you can pull the trans to change the pivot pin and do the detent bushings yourself, you can change to another trans or change the clutch and flywheel and slave and master yourself. DIY and save the labor money. You just need a better evaluation of your current trans.
I’d try changing the transmission fluid first.
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