Tensioner Pulley / Tensioner Roller (water pump side) torque value?

[UsernaM3]

I’ve been digging around the Bentley manual for 20 minutes or so and been googling but I cannot find the torque value for the tensioner pulley on the driver’s side belt. Anyone have that information by chance?

[bluptgm3]

Basically, using the pulley attach bolt to compress the tensioner, to install the belt, tightens the pulley attach bolt sufficiently.

See www.newTIS.info

E36 6 cylinder alternator bolt(s) tightening torques

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[UsernaM3]

Basically, using the pulley attach bolt to compress the tensioner, to install the belt, tightens the pulley attach the bolt acceptably.


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Awesome, thank you!

[sirhodjibob]

This is off the E46, but E36 should be similar:

Idler pulley bolt - 28 lb-ft
Tensioner bolts (this is for those with the 13mm head) - 18 lb-ft
Tensioner pulley bolts - 28 lb-ft

[TostitoBandito]

I wouldn't worry a ton about torque values on those. As tight as you can reasonably get it with a 3/8" ratchet in a confined space is typically the answer, which usually works out pretty close to the values stated. As long as you don't go crazy with a giant breaker bar or anything you'll be fine.

[UsernaM3]

Thanks everyone for the input and help!

A few more things here: doing some research and after removing the tensioner pulley I have found I have a mechanical tensioner on my motor: I am getting conflicting information though as some people say the pulley can be replaced (and well, technically it can because I just took the bolt out and swapped the pulley, part numbers on the pulley match up fine), and others say the entire tensioner needs to be replaced. Is that the case? Would it make sense to upgrade to the hydraulic tensioner in my case or should I just run this as I have it for now? I don’t want to cause any issues if just replacing that pulley was a no-go for whatever reason.

secondly, I do not have the idler pulley and I’ve seen plenty of others that have the same belt setup — is this something I could/should add without issue? The alternator definitely has a spot for it, but there’s a bolt which I’m sure I’d need to replace with something longer.

edit: as far as my second question goes, I have found a review on a mechanical tensioner conversion kit on turner where someone said you do indeed need to add the idler pulley, but I’d rather get an opinion from the great minds here than just go off of some random review.

[bluptgm3]

Review www.realoem.com.
Review this diagram for the parts required for the hydraulic/compression spring tensioner and idler. The (longer) idler attach bolt replaces the upper alternator pivot bolt.

Note, your belt length will most likely change.

Use the last seven characters of your VIN in realoem to review your current configuration and the diagram cited above.


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[UsernaM3]

Review www.realoem.com.
Review this diagram for the parts required for the hydraulic/compression spring tensioner and idler. The (longer) idler attach bolt replaces the upper alternator pivot bolt.

Note, your belt length will most likely change.

Use the last seven characters of your VIN in realoem to review your current configuration and the diagram cited above.


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Thanks for the reply.

what I did start to do earlier today was find the rest of the pulley part numbers to make sure I have the same numbers as realoem’s diagram since my current setup is obviously an odd one (of course the belt drive pulley was off by one number but realoem redirects to the correct 129mm. Just my luck that it’s a weird setup lol). I just want to make sure I don’t cause any accidental over or under drive because of something I’m not aware of in the earlier belt system that exists on my car.

I’ll probably get under the hood tomorrow to check P#s on the AC and PS pulleys to make sure before purchasing anything further. If the rest of the system matches up, [strikeout]I’ll probably grab the idler out of an abundance of caution.[/strikeout] the idler is looking more and more necessary.

[Braymond141]

Yes you can swap just the pulley on the mechanical tensioner. BMW does not sell the pulley only, so you have to buy an equivalent from Gates, Dayco and possibly INA. This is why people say replace the whole thing, because BMW does it this way.

Yes you can convert to the idler. Just get the matching bolt, idler and cap.

Hydraulic tensioner setup is ideal in my opinion. It’s also required for s/c setups as the mechanical version is not supported. You can more cheaply replace the pulley come time too.

[UsernaM3]

Thanks everybody. I have everything I need on order. Only $85, too — not bad.

[bluptgm3]

Review this diagram for the parts required for the hydraulic/compression spring tensioner and idler. The (longer) idler attach bolt replaces the upper alternator pivot bolt for the idler pulley.


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[UsernaM3]

Looking much better. My mechanical tensioner had a ‘94 date code on it! (Barf). It was time for that thing to go.