Putting in cam locking blocks before releasing cam intake/exhaust screws?

[E0339]

This is for the timing chain guide job, after where you have put the engine in TDC, removed the crank pulley, crank bolt, and removed the lower timing cover. The next step is to secure the cams.

I'm a little stuck though. I'm finding information with both schools of thought:

1) Loosen cam intake and exhaust sprockets before putting on the locking blocks

• Source 1: TIS from newtis
• Source 2: Guide from GAS (Go to step 15)

2) Put on the locking blocks first, then loosen cam intake and exhaust sprockets

• Source 1: Glenn 350S on YouTube
• Source 2: Guide from Besian

I personally feel like I should lock the cams before loosening anything because this is more precise (Plus, it is easier to rotate the intake cams slightly to fit inside the locking block by the T55 screw, instead of the cast hex on the cam because the oil lines do not have to be removed. I don't think I can accomplish this if I loosen the bolts first).

What's your opinion though?

Why would someone put the cam locks on first before loosening the intake / exhaust sprocket bolts?

Why would someone loosen the intake / exhaust sprockets first, before putting on the cam locks?

What are your thoughts?

Thanks

[osc911]

Which engine

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[scubajim20]

I locked the cams first and used a large wrench to support the cams while removing the sprockets. I didn't have any issues. I did use the G.A.S. kit.

[E0339]

Which engine

M62TUB44

I locked the cams first and used a large wrench to support the cams while removing the sprockets. I didn't have any issues. I did use the G.A.S. kit.

Great! This is the method I am leaning towards. How were the GAS tools in terms of ease of use, and accuracy? Any codes after you fired up the car?

[dtw]

I loosen the sprockets first when I do this job, as I do not want to risk deforming/damaging the cam blocks. Taking the oil lines off takes seconds.

[bighman209]

I locked the cams first and used a large wrench to support the cams while removing the sprockets. I didn't have any issues. I did use the G.A.S. kit.

This is how I did it too. Make sure the torq bit is all the way in and seated into the bolt. Of the 4 bolts that have to be loosened, 1 was on extremely tight and deformed 3 torq bits. I used the cheap eBay chinese kit, but I'd invest in the GAS kit or if you can rent it. I had no codes from the use of the kit, just some codes that were due to a vacuum leak and a knock sensor that went kaput.

[Deadwake]

I bought the G.A.S. kit and followed their instructions with mostly no issues.

[MotorMouth93]

The GAS kit makes the process easy if you can follow directions. I've used it a couple times with no issues.

Loosen the sprockets first, the kit is expensive and the aluminum blocks aren't meant to hold that kind of torque.

[E0339]

I loosen the sprockets first when I do this job, as I do not want to risk deforming/damaging the cam blocks. Taking the oil lines off takes seconds.

Ohhh. I didn't even think about this. Loosening the sprockets without the cam locks to not damage them makes sense...

This is how I did it too. Make sure the torq bit is all the way in and seated into the bolt. Of the 4 bolts that have to be loosened, 1 was on extremely tight and deformed 3 torq bits. I used the cheap eBay chinese kit, but I'd invest in the GAS kit or if you can rent it. I had no codes from the use of the kit, just some codes that were due to a vacuum leak and a knock sensor that went kaput.

Wow! Was it one of the exhausts? Did using the wrench keep the cam locks from being damaged?

I bought the G.A.S. kit and followed their instructions with mostly no issues.

Great to know! What were the issues that did happen?

The GAS kit makes the process easy if you can follow directions. I've used it a couple times with no issues.

Loosen the sprockets first, the kit is expensive and the aluminum blocks aren't meant to hold that kind of torque.

That's so wonderful to know! I love the GAS guide. I read through it a few times I got it, makes sense. Thank you

[JimLev]

Why take a chance of messing up the cam lock blocks? Hold the cam with your 27mm open end wrench like your suppose to, then loosen the torx bolts that hold the sprocket on.....no brained.

[E0339]

Why take a chance of messing up the cam lock blocks? Hold the cam with your 27mm open end wrench like your suppose to, then loosen the torx bolts that hold the sprocket on.....no brained.

Yeah, I was planning on holding the cams whenever I torque or loosen cam bolts. I was just trying to figure out if I should have the cam blocks on first, before loosening, or after the bolts are broken loose

[E0339]

Is there any chance to mess up the timing if I loosen the intake / exhaust cams without having the cam blocks attached, or would the impact on timing be the exact same if I were to loosen these bolts with the cam blocks attached?

[JimLev]

Think about it......
Your putting the cam blocks on to put the cams in the proper position.
Your OVER thinking everything.

[E0339]

Think about it......
Your putting the cam blocks on to put the cams in the proper position.

Well, after I put the engine to TDC, the exhaust cams would be in the proper position. The intake cams would be a little canted clockwise due to the valve spring load and vanos timing advance.

So then it looks like the role of the cam locks is to hold the position of the intake cam steady during the remainder of the job, considering the exhaust cams don't really want to move anywhere, and just stay where you put them. I think the only times that both exhaust and intake cams could be moved during the timing chain guide procedure would be when you tighten / loosen the intake / exhaust bolts. But considering you counterhold the cams with the wrench each time you touch one of the bolts, and that the intake cam is the only one that fights back, in an imperfect world where you don't have enough cam locks, would it be a safe assumption that really the only cam you need to lock down is the intake cam, or am I missing something about the exhaust cam?

Your OVER thinking everything.

Oh absolutely. Haha, can you imagine what hell i would create in the "Which oil should I use?" thread? But, I like fully understanding something before jumping in. I've also chosen to not trust myself for the first little while of working on my car but rather double check parts of the job with other more skillful people like yourself because I have zero experience in mechanics, and I want to keep my car alive. There were already a few times I thought I could do something my way, and after reading the instructions I was hugely mistaken, so this lets me bypass at least some beginner mistakes I may make. Imagine how precise of a guide I can write for this job if I overthink things to this level.

[dtw]

Here’s what you should over-think: making sure you slide the crank lock into the actual TDC-1 hole, and not just some random void in the flex plate. Use the inspection hole to inspect.

As far as cam bolts go, relax. Re-read the procedure one more time, then get to work. I can assure you that the loosening of the bolts is a drama-free experience. If you’re still uncomfortable, heck, you can slide the intake cam lock into place while you still have a wrench on the cam hex. But, I think you’ll instead have an “ah ha!” moment.

[E0339]

Here’s what you should over-think: making sure you slide the crank lock into the actual TDC-1 hole, and not just some random void in the flex plate. Use the inspection hole to inspect.

As far as cam bolts go, relax. Re-read the procedure one more time, then get to work. I can assure you that the loosening of the bolts is a drama-free experience. If you’re still uncomfortable, heck, you can slide the intake cam lock into place while you still have a wrench on the cam hex. But, I think you’ll instead have an “ah ha!” moment.

I appreciate the tip! I'll make sure I double check this. I'm excited to finally dive into the engine (And for the upcoming "ah ha" moments). Good to know it's drama free

[dtw]

You got this. You have more than enough healthy, cautious apprehension to keep from committing a colossal f$&@-up. The GAS procedure is very well written with the DIY person in mind. Print a copy and keep it handy as you progress.

[E0339]

Will do, thanks!

[JimLev]

Watch this.....
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...a-540tu-engine

[scubajim20]

Also use the Beisan instructions with the GAS procedure. There is additional information that is useful.

[Chedley]

And do not reinvent the wheel...
Follow to the t that video posted above -in particular the first picture-, and you'd be fine.

[E0339]

Thanks Jim. Yes! Jim's video is what I was planning to follow for timing. The original question for this thread was simply for one part of the timing chain guide procedure. As scubajim20 mentioned, one guide doesn't really have everything, and as he suggested I'm compiling the Besian, and GAS procedure together. There are a few questions I've written down that I will verify before starting the job.

I'm fairly new to the forums. Would it be better to make one thread per question, or make one thread per "questions about the timing chain guide" procedure?

Thank you for all your help thus far. It makes me feel like I have a team behind me

[JimLev]

You should make one thread and keep asking your question on it, that way everything will be in one thread, not scattered all over the forum.
My video is just about timing, taking it apart to replace parts and putting it back together is the easy part.

Don’t forget that failure is part of the learning process to success.

[E0339]

Sounds good. I appreciate the inspiration. For the crankshaft oil seal: What is the go-to method to put a new one in there? I've searched around a bit and haven't found anything that really gives an answer. Thanks.

My lower timing cover will be on

[JimLev]

Its better to install the front crank seal after you install the lower timing cover. That way you won’t catch the lip of the seal which will let the spring slip out and cause the seal to leak.
Like I said In the post above to you, you learn from the mistakes you make.