E32 740i part nr 90.947.00.882 heater sword

[Mark E32]

Morning ​to all I need the following part for my BMW I had her for 2424 years and she is still going. Can anyone please help me out as to wherewhere I can source this part from. Final stage blower motor regulator resistor SWORD in South Africa used parts for the car is difficult to source. No one here in my home town can recondition it. Looking for a new partpart if available. Kind regards Mark

[shogun]

Hi Mark, I will move your thread to the E32 forum. 9094700882 is a heater sword from Behr, post a want to buy here in the E32 classifieds section. I have a remanufactured one on stock, but presently cannot ship to South Africa.
But there are some on Ebay for example, search for BMW E32, E34, E32 Behr heater sword,

or repair it DIY
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Mainte...ical/Sword.htm
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/355700/
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/136145/
http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/s-heizschwert.htm
E32-34-sword-repair-info-collection http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showt...nfo-collection


Programa Inc in USA sells remanufactured ones, see here https://www.amazon.com/heater-contro.../dp/B00AUZ2M7O
for BMW e32 e34 a/c heater fan control unit Limit Switch (sword unit) blower motor
Manufacturer Part Number BMW 64118390015250,OEM Part Number 64 11 8 390 015, 64 118 390 015, 64118390015, 8390015
as long as it is made by Behr it will fit, the other maker is Siemens but they are rare.
here is one with worldwide shipping, remanufactured by Programa https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/641114684...7607#vi-ilComp

eBay item number: 282909237607

[Mark E32]

Thank you for the reply. What parts will I require as to mosfets that needs to be replace. I am not into electrical or electronics it will be a DIY

[Mark E32]

Don't you have a more detailed DIY on the part as said I am not into electrical or electronics. Will have to ask a mate to recon the part.
Cheers Mark

[shogun]

it is all mentioned in my above links,


more info for download for the IHKA control module, next to the sword: Modification of the IHKA control unit (E32/E34) due to possible overheating
2.39 MB!! (Text copied) The IHKA control unit repeatedly failed after about one hour of driving. In “cold condition” (directly after starting) the unit worked perfectly. The possible root cause was overheating of the entire unit. The housing is completely closed and on the PCB there are several components generating considerable heat. As a solution an active cooling was built in. The cut-outs are located over the components which generated the largest amount of heat. The two fans (30x30x7) were built into the “step” of the housing; there is enough space to the opposing electronic components. At the upper end of the PCB both +12V (KL 15) and ground can be found. There are two massive tracks adjacent to each other. Here a connector was soldered on (after removal of the protection coating, of course. Grind it until you see shiny copper…). There are 5 diodes (1N4001 or eqiv.) between +12V and the fans. The fans are running more silently at 10V (13.8V – 5 x 0.7V). For testing this modification the temperatures at two components (heat sink left – Temp 1, resistor right – Temp 2) were measured. Until about 4400 sec. (1 ¼ h) the control unit was idling – just supplied with 13.8V, no switching, no stepper driving, nothing – but 65°C at the resistor! Then the fans were switched on…
During messing around with the IHKA control unit to determine the cause of the malfunction I tried to find out more about how the IHKA was built up. Unfortunately the main components (microcontroller, driver IC’s,…) are marked with a special code – sorry, no proven information about these items.Thus: all following information is based on my own fuzzy thoughts about how this unit may work…(Picture and overview at the end of this document)
The IHKA control unit is diagnosis capable, i.e. (almost) all of the currents / voltages are measured and supervised. This is done by the power resistors together with the LM2901’s which compare analog values (set/actual) and deliver a corresponding digital signal to the main controller. This may evolve to a real PITA as each signal which is not exactly inside the defined limits will trigger an error message. If some values drift over the years there may be error messages where no errors are…
The stepper motor’s four windings are switched low side (ground) by the ULN2003’s. The bit pattern is stored by the stepper controller into the shift registers (HEF4094) which pass the signals on to the ULN2003’s. There are two driver-IC’s for switching the heating valves etc. (unfortunately these IC’s are coded: L475D). And exactly here is one of the big puzzles of the circuit: adjacent to these drivers there are two 120 Ohm power resistors. But those are not in a ground path due to current measurement or similar, they are just powered – a heating! Why? No clue… I only know one reason for providing such a “senseless” load: even in idle mode the control unit draws a defined amount of current and may be detected by other components of the entire car system. But: exactly those resistors generate a considerable amount of heat! All pictures I found in the web show a nicely tanned area on the PCB around
these resistors… thus I milled the openings in the housing directly above them. The next heater is the PTC of the fan of the interior temperature sensor. A PTC acts like a fuse. In normal operation it has a low resistance and passes current through. If there is too much current (e.g. a short), it gets hot and changes to a high resistance. The problem: if it gets heated from the “outside” (the overheated housing) it will change to a high resistance and the main controller gets the error message: “short in the fan”. This may be the main problem of the IHKA control unit…Last not least there is the main switch transistor. It is located on the same heat sink as the 5V voltage regulator for the digital circuitry. The transistor switches the KL30 supply (always hot) onto the internal KL15 (hot on ignition). Thus the control unit is powered during the often cited two minutes after engine stop and is switched off after this time. Again a problem: the main transistor itself is switched by secondary switching transistors. Latter ones are the said BC337’s. If they burn out the main transistor is permanently powered and it will never shut down the control unit – the battery will be empty soon enough (…it needs to power the fancy 120 Ohm heating…).
The main controller is very likely one of the Motorola MC6805 family. Some of the pins can be determined with a high probability (supply, Xtal,...). The reset pin was very interesting – the trace leads to one of the LM2901. In the original condition this part of the PCB was very sensitive, as the circuit remained in reset state if I touched one of the inputs of the LM2901 with the scope probe (!). After having changed the “surrounding” capacitors, this phenomenon has disappeared…
If the IHKA control unit is already opened and the soldering iron is ready I would change the two BC337 and the capacitors which are populated nearby the heat sink (2 x electrolytic caps, 2 x tantal caps).

http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/date...difikation.pdf

[Mark E32]

Good Morning thank you for all the I fo appreciated. I bought all the electronic parts to recondition the sword, please advise what is the apoxi they use to seal the mosfets into place,
Kind regards Mark

[shogun]

you do not need to re-apply the epoxy covering, it is used specifically for tamper control as the entire assembly is coated. You do need to reapply the Conformal Coating, any kind of conformal coating you can get locally in South Africa, for example http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/355705
Conformal coatings are used to protect electronic components from the environmental factors they are exposed to. Examples of these factors include moisture, dust, salt, chemicals, temperature changes and mechanical abrasion. Successful conformal coating will prevent the board from corroding.
https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/...-coatings.html
https://www.masterbond.com/industrie...ormal-coatings

[Mark E32]

Thank you Appriciated

[Wizdon23]

Hi shogun are the sword and resistor the same thing? I have 1994 production date 9/93 740i don’t know if I have a sword. I see a long black box with two connectors on driver’s side above pedal but not sure if I need to go on passenger side? Is the resistor the king black box in my car or should I remove glove box and look for sword? When I look online I see 3 options so I am a little confused. I see the long black box, the regular resistor and then online I see swords

[Wizdon23]

BMW 5 7 Series E32 E34 Heater Control Unit Blower Resistor 64118390088 0292 Looks like this

[shogun]

Blower and resistor are same function, but different, see here how it is on E34 https://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Maint...ical/Sword.htm , E32 all have a sword.
IHKA components with pics http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/ihka/ihka.html
The long black box with connectors on driver side above the pedal is the control module for the aircon system, on passenger side there are 2 more electric connectors. All different colors. The sword is next to the control module. Access to the sword is from passenger side , here you see the sword, the control module and how to remove http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/54597
http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_4.htm
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...Repair-Success

BMW 5 7 Series E32 E34 Heater Control Unit Blower Resistor 64118390088 >>>>this is the control module IHKA, not a sword, not a resistor

[Wizdon23]

Ok I plugged in the crank sensor car started I ran for 20 min cut car off tried to start no crank like battery is dead but brown wire is smoking under engine passenger side in wire box above fuel injectors. Traced wire looks like it goes to one of the plugs on throttle. It’s melting when I try to start the car and oil level sensor is on now please help not sure what to do. ��

[shogun]

here are the wiring diagrams where you can check what this wire is and where it goes https://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e32/ melting/smoking wires are dangerous, normally a fuse should blow.
if you are not sure what to do and not experienced with car electrics, maybe it is time to find a pro shop which has experience with these older models to fix it.
Understanding European wiring diagrams information http://www.e38.org/understanding%20e...20diagrams.pdf

[Wizdon23]

here are the wiring diagrams where you can check what this wire is and where it goes https://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e32/ melting/smoking wires are dangerous, normally a fuse should blow.
if you are not sure what to do and not experienced with car electrics, maybe it is time to find a pro shop which has experience with these older models to fix it.
Understanding European wiring diagrams information http://www.e38.org/understanding%20e...20diagrams.pdf

I have 94 this only goes to 93 and no blown fuses

[shogun]

I have 94 this only goes to 93 and no blown fuses

The 1993 wiring diagram is the last one for the E32 series till end of production, if you would have opened it, you would have seen on page 1 that that covers E32 from 93/94 vehicle produced 09/1992 till 07/1994.
Production year is not the same as calendar year.

Did you really check all fuses? there are fuses in engine bay in
front power distribution box, fuses 1-29
auxiliary relay box 1, fuses 34-37

and the rear power distribution box under rear seat driver side, fuses 40-59
plus 2 fusible links on the battery side under rear seats