2007 550i MT not starting (sporadically)

**ignignot** · 09-10-2020, 01:33 PM

Hey all, I've got an 07 550i with 130,000mi on it and it is giving me grief when i try to start it.

I had just got the car back from replacing a lot of seals in the engine, and both left and right camshaft sensors. Drove it for about a week before the issue started( or rather,refused to start)

I noticed the issue a day after plugging a power inverter into the cigarette lighter with ground and 12V reversed. Pretty sure that blew the 12v cig lighter fuse but I tested the fuse on the panel in the trunk and it was fine(This might have nothing to do with my issue but its info).

First time i had the problem was after starting the car cold, driving about 5 minutes, and turning it off. It clicked under the hood once the first 3 times when i pushed the start button, then decided to turn over and start on the 4th. A couple days later i went to start it and despite trying about 20 times, it refused.

Called my mechanic and he said he has had to replace the IBS cable in a couple other BMW's that had the same problem. he advised I unplug the small 2 pin cable from my ground wire. I tried starting with the wire connected, it failed to turn over, I disconnected the IBS data cable and go figure, the car started first try.

So i had my mechanic replace the cable, i got a new battery, and had my mechanic replace the IBS cable (almost $500!?). The car ran fine and started first time every time for a couple weeks, but yesterday i started it, drove about 5 mins to a gas station, filled it up, and it wouldn't start. Was able to roll down a hill and pop start it, but when i parked it at my girlfriends it refused to start.

I am getting 0 error codes through torque app, if I put the ignition on i can pop start it, but the starter just decides not to spin sometimes, then others it works like a boss (strong crank, quick start).

I am planning on replacing the IVM next, since i can do it myself, failry cheaply compared to the starter.. I have seen several users here post they had the same problem fixed by replacing the IVM, but im wondering if this is pertainent for the 550i 6MT (I see part of the IVM is for the SMG tranny, i dont have). I have ordered one from FCP and it shows up next week but since i have to do it at my GFs and she has 0 tools, i have to bring my own. So that leaves me with 2 questions.

1- what the hell is the problem!? For a car that loves throwing error codes I have 0. Anyone have any advice?

2- what tools do i need to change the IVM in an 07 550i? If i get into it and realize I need a tool I didnt bring its going to cost me a lot of time to go get it.

Thanks all.

**ignignot** · 10-05-2020, 01:05 PM

So yesterday i was able to hook up jumper cables under the hood and jump start the car. I read 14 volts where the cables were hooked up under the hood. The car started kinda sluggishly but the starter did turn and it fired up.

I then stopped the car and was unable to jump start it by connecting the jumper cables to the battery. I took a reading at the same spots under the hood and only saw 12.9 volts

Still not fixed, ill keep posting

**MysticRob** · 10-05-2020, 01:43 PM

Originally Posted by ignignot

Pretty sure that blew the 12v cig lighter fuse.

Why would you think this? And does the lighter outlet still work for other things when they're plugged in?

Originally Posted by ignignot

So yesterday i was able to hook up jumper cables under the hood and jump start the car. I read 14 volts where the cables were hooked up under the hood. The car started kinda sluggishly but the starter did turn and it fired up.

I then stopped the car and was unable to jump start it by connecting the jumper cables to the battery. I took a reading at the same spots under the hood and only saw 12.9 volts

Get a good battery charger and ensure the new battery's state of charge is as high as it can be. Even a 'new' battery may not be properly charged. Go from there once you know the battery is fully charged.
And $500 to swap out an IBS is insane. Did that include the new battery?
I bought both the Genuine BMW 12427603567 IBS and adapter 12517615476 from FCP and it was just under $250, swapped with a socket set I had on-hand.

**tallfreak** · 10-05-2020, 08:45 PM

Have you already installed the new IVM? If not replace it before trying anything else. If so try checking the connection at the jumper point under the hood. Its a 13mm bolt that goes through the eye of the terminal on the wire to the alternator and start. I've seen techs leave these loose or not have the wire pushed all the way through.

It could be a starter. It would be unusual in my experience for one of those starters to fail. I've replaced only 2 or 3 in my 11 years as a BMW tech, but its a possibility.

When it doesn't start do you hear a loud click or knock under the hood? Or is it totally silent?

From now on carry a spare key with you and only use the key you have been using with the problem. Next time it happens try the spare key. If you have comfort access make sure to put the original key into the slot. If you have 2 keys in the car and start without putting one in the slot, you will have no idea what key.it picked up.

I am 90% sure if you put a bad key into the slot, even with a good key in the car comfort access wont read the good key.

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**ignignot** · 10-06-2020, 07:47 PM

I took it for a drive today, battery was 11.5 volts, had to pop start it. Drove on the highway for 1/2 hour and the battery just sat at 11.5 the whole time. Its at the Indy now with the IVM in the box. I'll keep posting about it as things unfold.

**tallfreak** · 10-06-2020, 08:45 PM

Sounds like your alternator can't keep up. It could be the alternator or loose connection at the jump point or engine ground. Let us know what happens.

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**ignignot** · 10-09-2020, 12:37 PM

Indy says its the starter.

Could that be the cause of the parasitic drain and the whirring sound around 1200-2500 rpms?

Also, this is immediately after getting the car back from having a gasket replacement done incorrectly, and oil seepage was bad enough to cause smoke from that exact corner of the car (I assumed it was hitting the headers). I took the car back and he fixed it but what are the odds 15 miles and 2 days was enough to break the starter.

**tallfreak** · 10-09-2020, 01:56 PM

Originally Posted by ignignot

Indy says its the starter.

Could that be the cause of the parasitic drain and the whirring sound around 1200-2500 rpms?

Also, this is immediately after getting the car back from having a gasket replacement done incorrectly, and oil seepage was bad enough to cause smoke from that exact corner of the car (I assumed it was hitting the headers). I took the car back and he fixed it but what are the odds 15 miles and 2 days was enough to break the starter.

I'm not saying it's not the starter, but you said you drove for a half an hour and the battery voltage stayed at 11.5v. Bad starter or not, why isn't the alternator charging? Or maybe the alternator is charging but your battery has a dead/shorted cell? Thats less likely because it sometimes starts fine.

What did you use to check battery voltage? Were you monitoring voltage while driving?

Is this the same indy that did the previous work?

I'm sure they gave you an estimate for a starter, and I know its a lot of money. I think its around 8 hours plus parts.

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**tallfreak** · 10-09-2020, 01:58 PM

What seals were just replaced? This might help me narrow down what mistakes they might have made during the repairs.

I say might have made because it could be a coincidence. However I think its unlikely.

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**ignignot** · 10-09-2020, 02:28 PM

Alternator bracket gasket
Timing cover gasket both upper
Valve cover gasket kit 3490889 @ ECS
Spark plug tubes

I got it back and he didnt seat the valve gasket right the first time and it was leaking in the rear corner on the passenger side, there was smoke coming off it so i took it back to him the next day.
Here's a video of it smoking. It did not do this before the seal was installed wrong.

i checked the voltage at the battery with a multimeter and was watching yhe OBD voltage in torque while i drove. Torque stayed at 10.6 the whole trip but the battery at start and finish was 11.5 so im thinking the obd port was a volt lower but voltage was steady.

The oil leak has been fixed and there is no more smoke.

I asked today if the starter had gotten oil soaked he said no. He also said he couldn't get it jump started so he didn't notice any voltage problems cause its not running.

https://youtube.com/watch?feature=yo...&v=bqbLeS8Auk4

**tallfreak** · 10-09-2020, 02:47 PM

Originally Posted by ignignot

Alternator bracket gasket
Timing cover gasket both upper
Valve cover gasket kit 3490889
Spark plug tubes
I got it back and he didnt seat the valve gasket right the first time and it was leaking in the rear corner on the passenger side, there was smoke coming off it so i took it back to him the next day.
Here's a video of it smoking. It did not do this before the seal was installed wrong.i checked the voltage at the battery with a multimeter and was watching yhe OBD voltage in torque while i drove. Torque stayed at 10.6 the whole trip but the battery at start and finish was 11.5 so im thinking the obd port was a volt lower but voltage was steady.
The oil leak has been fixed and there is no more smoke.smoke

I asked today if the starter had gotten oil soaked he said no.

https://youtube.com/watch?feature=yo...&v=bqbLeS8Auk4

The starter probably didn't get oil soaked. Its tucked in so close to the block and the heads stick out so far that they will drip oil onto the manifold but it won't get on the starter.

Since all that work was just done and the alternator isn't charging confirmed by two different readings, I'd be willing to bet there is a bad connection at the ground wire for the engine or at the jump point. The alternator charge wire and the starter supply wire are the same wire and are connected to the battery at the jump point on the drivers side of the engine bay. If that is left loose it could intermittently not start or charge. Also that is where most techs would disconnect power from the alternator before removing the alternator to replace the alternator bracket gasket.

Either way I would get a second opinion.

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**ignignot** · 10-09-2020, 03:24 PM

Indy called back he did get it to jump start, he sees the voltage problem now and is investigating. Ill keep posting as it unfolds

**ignignot** · 10-12-2020, 04:47 PM

Indy says its the 2 power cables coming from the battery to the fuse panel and to the trunk are completely thrashed. Says both cables are about $650. After this is done, im going to be in $1100 on 3 freaking wires.

**tallfreak** · 10-12-2020, 04:54 PM

Originally Posted by ignignot

Indy says its the 2 power cables coming from the battery to the fuse panel and to the trunk are completely thrashed. Says both cables are about $650. After this is done, im going to be in $1100 on 3 freaking wires.

I would get a second opinion. Also check to see if your car has had the battery cable recall. Or pm me the last 7 of your vin and I can look.

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**ignignot** · 10-12-2020, 07:09 PM

I called BMW, they said the car had it replaced before. Im not sure what happened before i got it but the cables were replaced and now are ruined, apparently.

**tallfreak** · 10-12-2020, 08:42 PM

Originally Posted by ignignot

I called BMW, they said the car had it replaced before. Im not sure what happened before i got it but the cables were replaced and now are ruined, apparently.

What did they say was wrong with the cables? Its pretty hard to mess up a cable.

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**ignignot** · 10-13-2020, 07:10 AM

He said it looks like someone tried to cut them, and the plastic is all burnt up. It does explain an electrical problem like im seeing (to my novice mind) with the battery hardly charging and unable to jump start from the battery but able to jumpstart from the hood.

He took a closer look for me and thinks only one of the cables needs to be replaced. About $600 parts+diag+labor. I'll post voltage readings when i get it back

**ignignot** · 10-17-2020, 08:16 PM

Got it back tonight. Took it for a 45 min drive, voltage was up to 13.7 for a but and then sat around 12.2. Im gonna take it for an hour drive tomorrow and make sure it doesn't go back down under 12 while running.

Just got the battery it's only 900CCA. Had it registered as non AGM. Curious about what the car will do differently now that it thinks it has a new battery

**tallfreak** · 10-17-2020, 08:20 PM

What all did they replace? Do you have the part numbers?

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**ignignot** · 10-17-2020, 08:54 PM

61126929324

Paid for a couple hours of diagnostic so it was about $650 otd after tax. he started looking for the problem under the hood since i asked him to check the ground straps so maybe my fault haha. thank goodness i didnt replace my starter, thanks all.

The ticking has stopped as well it must have been my poor alternator maxing out.

**tallfreak** · 10-17-2020, 09:06 PM

Did they replace the alternator? That part number is the positive battery cable.

I hate to tell you, but its not fixed. It shouldnt drop below 13v. 13.5 is normal.

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**ignignot** · 10-17-2020, 10:28 PM

I was checking the obd port voltage through torque when i got 12.2. I found one in torque was reporting a volt lower than a multimeter on the battery when i tested the other day. Ill take the multimeter out and see what the voltage is while idling

**tallfreak** · 10-18-2020, 08:13 AM

Ok. I've never seen it be more than a few tenths off of actual battery voltage checked with a DMM.

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**ignignot** · 10-18-2020, 01:56 PM

Driving today the odbc voltage was reporting at 13.2 for the whole drive.

Now my only concern is i noticed my ltft 1 and 2 are both around 12, but my short term are both at pretty much 0. Could the ltft numbers be high as a result of a previous weak spark? Reported AFR in torque was sitting around 10 the whole time until i was in negative throttle it would jump to like 19.

**tallfreak** · 10-18-2020, 02:04 PM

I wouldn't worry about fuel trims. If it gets far enough out it will produce a code.

BMW doesn't use short term and long term. Its additive and multiplicative. Idle and part load respectively. 99% of the time its additive thats throwing a code.

If its running good with no codes dont worry about it. Im still concerned about the voltage/starting problem.

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