I picked up an e38 a couple months ago where someone botched a timing chain job. The car actually came with another engine. So I swapped it last weekend. What a job! Ive done many engine swaps and this one was a bear. I think if I had to do it again, I'd pull the engine with the transmission. I had to remove the trans mount anyway in order to remove the harness. All that was left was the driveshaft.. The headers and the engine mount brackets are all up in the way, especially if you leave the compressor in place. I left the right header in place and removed the left one when the engine was lifted a little.
Everything seems pretty good so far except for a couple things. I can't get the cooling system bled at all. Inclined, heat on, pumping hoses, bleed screw, still no heat and doesn't want to bleed. It has the fuel pump whine, looks like i need to change that white valve in the tank.. And the CCV system is acting up intermittently.
I'm not new to BMWs, but never had an M62 so I'm open to all tips on bleeding this e38!
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http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E38/Index.htm / Timm's site is great. basically, e38 needs to be pointed up hill - nose higher than tail, heat running full blast, etc.
Also, e38.org is a bible.
Video here:
Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i
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Thanks Timm, i will try the 5min method when i get home. Interesting note about the e38 having an electrically activated thermostat, I didnt realize that until now. Although i have no codes, I suspected an issue with the thermostat since the engine temp wants to rise but I will try again before i jump to a conclusion. Can I open the thermostat with INPA?
CPHES, cool site, bookmarked! I saw his bleeding procedure in my Google search.
Still no heat at all, and same result with the 5min method. Although, it really wasn't too much different than what I was doing before. I'm suspecting a blockage, or a bad thermostat. Hmmmm.. Never had this much problem bleeding a BMW.
The heater control valves may be stuck closed keeping coolant out of the heater core. It's also the highest point in the cooling system, on the drivers side firewall.
So I made some progress today. I did remove the upper hose from the radiator and filled from there. It took some coolant but just made the float in the expansion tank rise.
I could not activate the thermostat in INPA. It looks like there is a button for it but it didn't do anything.
I finally got some heat out of the vents and some circulating coolant.
But i still have some problems. My viscous clutch is bad and the center vent does not work on heat. I suspect an issue with the switch or something. I'm used to the cable versions so I'll have to do some investigating. Maybe those were my issues all along, who knows. Seems to be working somewhat so far. I finally saw my thermostat open at about 117 degrees, maybe it was stuck from sitting there for so long.
After my short yard drive, i got the Trifecta, DSC, ABS, & ASC lights..
I had to go in and spend some time with the family so ill do some more later. Thanks all for the help so far.
Last edited by Auto Parts Guy; 09-10-2020 at 08:53 PM.
Small update: I drove the e38 to the store and got some gas this morning, then took her out for a short drive. Everything seems to be working well so far, even the heat. I did replace the viscous coupling this morning before the drive. Seems to be good.
I still need to fix the Trifecta, replace some front suspension arms, fix the fuel pump howl, and a few other small things then she'll be ready to roll.
So I think I finally got the cooling system completely bled. All seems good now. I also changed the front lower control arms and the front tension struts. Now I think I need the tie rods, still a small clunking noise over bumps, sounds like my M5 before I changed the center drag link.
I also changed that little white valve in the fuel tank (PN 16141182193) trying to get rid of that fuel pump whine, but to my surprise, no change. Not sure what to do now. Drives fine, no change when I remove the fuel cap. Maybe I just live with it? Or change the pump?
Next is valve cover gaskets and tires.
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