1998 M3/4/5
H&R lowering springs
Front & rear stress bars
X-brace
OEM strut housings
My car has the staggered setup (7.5” front / 8.5” rear) on the stock 17” wheels with 41mm offset.
I’m at Mid-Ohio racetrack (crew) and there’s a guy with 97-99 M3 coupe. I went over to his paddock and he was running (40mm offset) 18” APEX Arc8 8.5” width front and rear with no spacers on OEM strut housings. I think the tires were 245s.
We put one of the wheels on the front of my car and it interfered with the bottom of the strut housing by at least 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.
I just can’t figure out why there’s so much of a difference. The cars are essentially the same. Even with the stock front wheel my tires are very close to the strut housing.
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Last edited by 82bmw633; 09-05-2020 at 11:44 AM.
Sounds like he has 1995 M3 Spindles/King Pins
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CARS
02.92 325is / 06.72 2002 / 02.91 XJ / 08.04 R53 JCW
Because those are two different size wheels... have you tried putting your rear wheels on the front of your car?
Last edited by TheJordanWhitte; 09-05-2020 at 12:53 PM.
98 M3 sedan
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-spindle/page2
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I didn’t try putting my rear wheel on the front because I honestly never thought of it. I want new wheels which are 17x8 in the front and 17x9 in the rear. I figured 8.5” in the front would be close but didn’t figure it would be as bad as it was. In my research I find folks running square 9” widths. I’d be willing to go to 18” rims if I could get the stock widths.
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Ya, there has to be a ‘sticky’ with working combinations...
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You'll very likely need a spacer in front. I don't run 18's, but I run 17x9's and I use a 12mm spacer so I clear my strut. An 18x8.5 would be somewhat similar in terms of strut interference. You can run pretty meaty tires and still clear the fenders without needing to roll or anything, even with the spacer, as long as you run at least a moderate amount of camber.
1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy
I'm on H&R Sports with Bilsteins, and I run 17x9 et30 and I don't rub (on the strut OR the fender) but it's close. I tried to add a camber shim and I couldn't even run the smallest one. If wheel shops try to use rim clip-on weights on the inside they sometimes make contact, so I just make sure they use sticky weights on the inside circumference.
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
This may double post...
I have H&R Sports on Bilsteins with Apex 17x9 et30 and PS4S 245/40 square and I don't rub (strut or fender) - but it's close. I tried to run a camber shim, and even the smallest one made me rub.
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
I've tried to edit my original post three times and it's deleted it each time.
So, here's hoping they don't all show up again overnight.
I run H&R Sports on Bilsteins, 17x9 et30 Arc-8s w/ 245/40 PS4S square.
I tried to run a camber shim but even the smallest one made me rub.
With 10mm more offset and only a half inch less width (1/4" less per side) , or net 4.x mm closer to the strut, I can see how you're making contact, but shouldn't be as much as you're seeing.
In any case, you'll probably need at least a 5mm spacer, maybe a 10 to be on the safe side (obviously, a 6.25mm space would land you exactly where I am).
And you won't have any fender issues. You should be about where I am et-wise, and have similar clearance assuming you run a 245/40 (the 6mm extra clearance on each side of the wheel (your 8.5" vs my 9" wide) shouldn't really affect tire placement as far as rubbing is concerned).
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
BMW wheels are ‘hub centric’ meaning they index on the hub. Most if not all spacers 10mm and under do not index the wheel, you may have to run a hub extender like these from Turner to have the index feature.
Turner Hub Extender
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 09-06-2020 at 11:24 PM.
Yeah that's why I run Apex's 12mm spacers which extend the hub lip. They work perfectly, and there's plenty of room for them with 17x9 ET42's with 245 or 255 tires.
https://www.apexraceparts.com/apex-1...-kit-1361.html
1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy
Interesting thread. I’m about to install Koni sports (stock struts), and Wheels are 18x8.5 Arc8’s et38. Strut mounts will be reversed . I wonder if I’ll be needing a spacer
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“If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
― George Orwell
An ET 38 wheel may give you the clearance to the strut required.
Stock wheels for E36 are ET41. Wheels can range between ET35 - ~ET42, and may/may not require spacers for clearance to strut. Some combinations may require fender rolling.
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Last edited by bluptgm3; 09-07-2020 at 11:51 AM.
Ya, this Apex Guide looks very comprehensive.
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When I bought the car the PO asked if I wanted his track wheels. He still had his E46 ZHP and I figured he could still use those since he had done a lot of drivers schools in the E36.
I contacted him and he still has them and is willing to sell. They’re SSR wheels and I wanted the same type of design so I’m probably going to buy them since they worked on the M3.
I do appreciate all the help and responses so I’ll keep the info for future reference.
These are very likely the same wheels the OP tried on. There is no 18x8.5 et40 Arc-8 - the forged wheel is et35 and the normal one is et38. The guy who loaned them to try on probably just rounded when he told OP they were et40.
Swapped or not, strut mounts won't impact clearance.
You'll likely be in the same position as the OP.
Why 8.5? All the 18x9 et30s will fit without rubbing (though if they're square they'll be tight in the rear without a lot of roll and pull... So I guess that's a reason to use the 8.5 et38). If you already have the wheels, the Apex 12mm spacer with the lip is probably the best option for the front.
Dropping 3mm, ET41 to ET38, improves wheel to strut clearance (to just barley clear) moving the wheel outboard, a 12mm spacer should be far more than enough
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Hello there, fellow 614 person.
I have nothing to add, just saying hi to a local
-Rich-
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