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Thread: Poor Man's Z8 Project

  1. #26
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    may not be much help, but i've used similar in the past for truck projects. Should be able to figure some parts to make it happen https://www.flamingriver.com/steering-universal-joints (not the only vendor)
    '03 M3. Titanium Silver/Black. Bilstein PSS10, 19" VMR 710, UUC SSK, UUC LWT clutch/flywheel, UUC catback, ///Avin Avant2.
    '95 S50 TI, bad weather beater, tow rig. 210hp210tq @ the wheels

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker View Post
    Never done this before and I'm afraid something will happen and it'll break or disassemble itself while driving and I'll crash and die
    lol. It will turn out fine, a bit of safe testing and you should be okay.

  3. #28
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    When I read the title I thought this was going to be an early Z4 with an S62, but this is even more fitting! Nice build man, waiting to see it boogie

  4. #29
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    RE: Custom Steering Shaft.

    I recently abandoned my project of dropping S62 into my E36 M3 LTW race car. I engineered an N62 Oilpan solution for it, and modified my subframe in a similar way to yours. Should have mailed you mine. Alpina built the B8 E36 cars using M60 engines modified into what would become the "hot" versions later introduced by BMW. They had close to 40 modifications to the chassis in order to put the M60 engines in there.

    One of the modifications was moving the steering column's exit on the bulkhead to a new location to simplify the steering linkage. You may find that is the best and quickest way to avoid a multi-link shaft. I'd be happy to sell you the parts at a good price that I bought for my project that I won't use, from Flaming River etc.... I have the adjustable shaft and the link to the steering rack, unused, uncut, unblemished. Lets put the parts to use!

    Nice work, creative solutions.

    Update: I did find the parts! I have the slip column, its longer than needed so you can cut it down to size. It has the ability to collapse in a collision. Very safe. One end is called 1 inch DD, the other is 3/4 DD and I have the chrome moly adapter from them for 17mm to match the rack and column as it exits the firewall. I also have a Euro RHD interior steering column mount that doesn't incorporate the pedal next to it, which might facilitate moving the interior column down and out.... Its what Alpina did. If OP doesn't buy these, they are available. You'll save over buying them from Flaming River, I've had them way to long to return them. The couplers are still wrapped, in their shrink wrap, not even opened. The slip shaft has been on the shelf for a few years.
    Last edited by M3 Euro LTW; 07-17-2021 at 07:20 PM.
    Alex Lipowich
    xyobgyn on AOL

    Trying to make the world a better place with 5 extra throttle bodies at a time.

  5. #30
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    Hi Graham, I just stumbled on this thread and got caught up (I had been following on your website).

    I have an S85 swapped E46 here that I am working on, to clear the exhaust the shop that assembled it added a 3rd joint to the steering shaft. While it isn't terrible to drive, especially at speed, it has lost a bit of the E46 "feel." I would suggest doing everything you can to prevent having to do the same to the steering on your car (within reason of course).
    Current Garage... '00 R11S, '09 HP2S, '12 R12GSA, '00 Black 323iT (wife's), '02 Alpine 325iT (Eileen, Track Wagon)

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  6. #31
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    Your thinking is correct. The trans output to CSB would ideally be as close to straight as possible and the rear shaft u-joints at 1-2 degree opposing angles. Tremec (I think) makes a driveline angle app for your phone if you want to double check everything however.

  7. #32
    JimLev's Avatar
    JimLev is offline Artifically Aspirated Moderator
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    Nice build Graham, I’m surprised I never saw it before.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker View Post
    Thanks man



    Almost feels weird using the future tense on a build that's been going on now for... 8 months But yeah, it will be sweet when this thing finally hits the road
    I don't see a build thread for your Ford V8 E30?




    Also one thing I've been asked more than any other on this swap is... how much does that thing weigh
    Well the answer may surprise some of you but the N62 weighs 8 pounds less than an S54

    Here are some other common points of comparison I compiled last night as well, for my own record, thought some of you may be interested

    S62 | 394 hp | 500 n-m | 487 lbs+ | 5.0
    N62 | 367 hp | 490 n-m | 470 lbs* | 4.8
    S65 | 414 hp | 400 n-m | 445 lbs* | 4.0
    N62 | 333 hp | 450 n-m | 470 lbs | 4.4
    S54 | 315 hp | 341 n-m | 478 lbs* | 3.2
    M62 | 282 hp | 440 n-m | 487 lbs | 4.4
    S52 | 240 hp | 320 n-m | 436 lbs | 3.2
    M54 | 228 hp | 300 n-m | 375 lbs | 3.0
    M52 | 168 hp | 245 n-m | 375 lbs | 2.5

    +No published info on S62 weight but it would weigh close to, but a little more than an M62
    *These engines also require oil coolers which are not factored into the weights

    Full build thread is documented here for anyone interested: https://www.ascfabrics.com/z3v8
    Love this build! Also, find myself wishing BMW made an inline 6 in the spirit of the S65. As in the N52 is a good, lightweight, reliable motor, but it's not a9k rpm monster. Missed opportunity for BMW imo

  9. #34
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    Sure you don’t want V-band clamps? I used them on my header collectors to the main CATS, so easy to disconnect, no gaskets to worry about.

  10. #35
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    I will be using V-bands, I just don't have them on hand - if I did I could tack weld them in place now and possibly save pulling the engine an extra time in the future. Not a big deal at this point in any case, but I am starting to get near the point where I'd like it to be the "final" installation so I can start it up and maybe let it idle a bit...

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  11. #36
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    Guess I mis read your post, thought you weren’t going to use them.
    Before mine were welded on I drove it around with open headers, really sounded like a NASCAR motor.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker View Post


    Thank you, and I think that's called the S54 I do wish they made an M version of the N52 though (or of the N62 for that matter)
    The S54 is great in all respects, except one thing - It's a boat anchor. Now something as light as the N52, but with all the M fixings would really be transformative and allow them to build something akin to an S2000, but from BMW with a high revving straight six. I'm surprised they never had an aluminum block 'S' straight six. Rather odd. They made the v8 from aluminum after all. From a weight perspective the S54 is nearly the same as the 20yr older S38.

    Anyway, cheers again for the awesome build. This thing is going to be a monster. Also, I knew little of the N62, and so it's always great to learn about them. Especially in this way!

  13. #38
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    Not 100% finalized in place, the upper clearance around the headers is too tight for comfort... few ways I am thinking of addressing that issue, but the general layout will remain the same in any case...

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  14. #39
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    I love how it looks with all the beauty covers and everything... still a bit to go before it's buttoned up for the final time, but I wanted to get an idea how it'd look and I really dig it


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  15. #40
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    Just stumbled across this thread and am floored at the creativity and attention to detail here. Really impressed with how far back you were able to mount the engine and looking forward to how balanced it is once it's on the ground. Subscribed!

  16. #41
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    Why not just leave it in the location you have it in the above pic?
    The temp reading will be almost, if not the same, as with the sensor at the bottom of the radiator outlet.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Why not just leave it in the location you have it in the above pic?
    The temp reading will be almost, if not the same, as with the sensor at the bottom of the radiator outlet.
    That's what I'm going to do if I can't come up with a better solution. I think I will end up running it like this and if the dang thing actually runs and drives, I'll eventually get a bigger radiator custom-made, with quick-connect fittings on the radiator instead of the barb type...
    Was hoping someone had a clever solution to this problem, or knew of a BMW in-line adapter type piece but, I don't think such a thing exists

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  18. #43
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    Engine bay looks good with everything in it. Project is moving along nicely.
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  19. #44
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    Some of the E39 guys that have done away with the clutch fan to use an electric fan have used this adapter to trigger the fan on.
    You’d need to make your temp sensor fit in it, probably not worth the effort.
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2283?rrec=true

  20. #45
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    I never heard of VHT paint being used on piston tops, I think it would burn off. Maybe it’s some special mix, not the rattle can VHT stuff?
    I used a lot of DHI insulation on my hotrod.
    https://www.designengineering.com/fl...esive-24-x-42/
    Last edited by JimLev; 08-24-2021 at 02:21 PM.

  21. #46
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    I’ve used that Eastwood flare tool to make bubble flares for the hotrod. It may be a bit pricey. All I can say is it’s so easy and quick to use it’s worth the price of admission. Makes perfect regular or bubble flares every time.

  22. #47
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    Wow this looks very cool , Like a BMW version of an AC Cobra . Keep going cant wait to see the final product.

  23. #48
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    Thanks guys



    My main task recently has been to finish all the metalwork for paint prep. Before I could do that I wanted to build a reinforcement around the steering shaft as I was worried the engine would droop into the shaft and cause binding. This would not be as much of a consideration if I had poly or solid mounts but I was gung-ho on the idea of using rubber mounts like OE so have to take sagging over time into consideration. I arranged the engine a few different ways and found that the way most likely to cause binding was in the arrangement in the video below. I built a little "finger" to go up and contact the engine before the engine could contact the shaft. I later revised this slightly by adding a threaded insert to the top, so I could have a flat "pad" which can be threaded in and out to adjust the height where it contacts the engine. A second failsafe will also be installed, a rubber stopper on the x-brace to prevent the engine from leaning that much to begin with



    Have a lot of parts coming to me too... decided to spend some money on the "good" stuff as I'm currently under my expected budget
    2k primer, 2k primer, seam sealer
    DEI gold reflective tape for accents and probably the firewall (already have some of this installed and I really like working with it, so I want more!)
    DEI "fire sleeves" to wrap around the brake lines/fuel lines that will pass by the headers on driver's side
    DEI self-adhesive reflect-a-cool sheets for the transmission tunnel
    Stainless steel brake line
    N63 intake boxes - I believe these will fit and can be made to work with my setup. They aren't the prettiest boxes in the world but should work


    I also ordered an "air filter box" from an E65 750i. Well, I'm not really sure what I ordered. The ad pictured the center dual intake piece - the part I have now - and both air filter boxes. The description said "this is for the air filter box the air snorkel is not included". I asked what they had for sale, was reassured it was the "air filter box" in two different messages after I sought clarification after the first answer. The lack of plurality worried me, since I need BOTH (two) intake boxes. It was cheap, so I ordered it...


    I am 90% sure the N63 intakes will fit exactly as-is, even over the power steering reservoir. They are extremely shallow intake boxes - they are actually designed to fit over the engine (but still under the hood)

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  24. #49
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    Wish I had that brake line tool, also thing is coming along really well.

  25. #50
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    Only thing I'm concerned about is the angle on those steering shaft U-joints - the more there is the more force you wind up putting on the rod end/ball support when you steer, so your steering force literally tries to flex the chassis more. Otherwise it's shaping up real nicely.

    If you hadn't made a call on it yet, I don't think there's a clever solution to the thermostat housing problem; maybe you can just run an N62 radiator as well while you're at it so you don't have to fab maintenance parts years down the line.

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