Basic 20-year-old maintenance recommendations?

[spikeisgr8]

Hi guys. I haven't seen something on this subject matter specifically recently, and I read these forums all the time. So my apologies in advance if I'm brain dead and can't remember anything.

The title says it. Hypothetically, should I choose to walk to my local indie mechanic and say, hey, here's your chance to charge me possibly a lot of money to perform things some people would deem unnecessary but no one can argue would be a bad idea to do either. And I'm talking beyond the annual oil change I get with Castrol 10W-60. And I've already had rod bearings, Vanos, and subframe done. Drain and refill brake, diff, and tranny fluid, other fluids I can't think of, replace my cooling system? (I'm at 50k miles), rubber parts to replace due to age, what else am I missing or would be a good thing to look at?

Ultimately, I ask because it was just my birthday, COVID sucks, and I haven't bought myself anything this entire quarantine. Treating myself to a paint correction and ceramic coating to make the car look brand spanking new and figured I might as well sort out some maintenance related bs while I'm at it.

Appreciate your input!

[shogun]

BMW INSPECTION II SERVICE SCHEDULE – Check List

VEHICLE RAISED ON HOIST:- Engine at operating Temperature
Remove Engine shield.
Drain engine oil and replace oil filter and sump plug washer.
Check transmission for leaks including coolant line of final drive.
Drain Automatic Transmission oil (except 5hp30).
Refill automatic transmission (transmissions without dipstick only).
Change manual transmission oil all models (except E36 M40,M42,M50] E34 M40,M50,M60] and E31 [M70] engines which are to be changed every second insp II service).
Replace rear axle oil (E38 Every 2nd inspection II).
Replace oil in transfer box and front axle final drive (4WD).
Check clutch driven plate for wear, every 2nd Inspection II.
Renew main fuel filter: Petrol engines every 2nd Inspection II.
Check P.A.S system for leaks.
Check radiator bottom hose for leaks.
Check driveshaft gaiters for leaks.
Check Steering for freedom from play.
Check condition of track rod and front axle ball joints.
Check steering box for leaks, check UJs couplings and flexible gaiters.
Check all connections and lines on braking system for leaks, damage and correct position including
handbrake cables and bleed nipple covers.
Check Fuel pipes, tank and connections for leaks, damage and position.
Check condition, position and mounting of exhaust system
Inspect underside of body for corrosion/ underseal damage etc (every 2 years except E30).
Refit engine shield.

LOWER VEHICLE TO HALF-WAY POSITION
Remove road wheels.
Remove brake pads/linings, clean and check for wear.
Check wheel cylinders and dust seals for leaks.
Check brake disc/drum surface.
Check handbrake lever travel, movement of handbrake cables and adjustment.
Check on rear disc brake models, handbrake lining wear.
Grease wheel centering spigots for alloy wheels.
Check shock absorbers for leaks.
Check torque of wheel air deflector E34/M5 1st inspection II only.
Refit road wheels.
Check condition of tires if uneven wear recommend wheel alignment check.
VEHICLE ON GROUND
Inspect bodywork for corrosion, stone chips, damage or contamination (every 2 years except E30).
Check fluid level concentration of screen wash reservoir.
Refill engine oil.
Refill automatic transmission oil.
Remove spark plugs.
Check and adjust valve clearances. Replace rocker cover gasket.
Renew spark plugs.
Lubricate door mechanism hinges.
Replace Micro-filter and active carbon filter (if applicable) in heating/air con system.
Replace air recirculation filter: Every 2nd inspection II (if applicable).
E31 only: Clean intake-air separator in front of intake air silencer.
Renew air intake filter.
Check P.A.S hose clips for tightness & P.A.S fluid level.
Check brake system connections including ABS for tightness and positioning.
Lubricate throttle linkages and gate mechanisms on Carburator models.
Check clutch hose connections for tightness and positioning.
Check clutch fluid level.
Check brake fluid level (renew fluid every 2 years, 750i annually).
Check battery acid level.
Carry out battery condition check, use battery test report.
Check condition/tightness coolant hoses.
Check tension/condition of all V belts (except M70 engine).
Replace all V belts E34 / M5 only (S38 engine).
Check coolant level and concentration (renew every 3 years) (M3/M5 every 2 years).
Self levelling suspension: check fluid level.
Check spare wheel condition.
Check wheel stud torque and tire pressures.
Check intensive cleaner level.
Check correct operation of lambda probe.
Replace fire extinguisher cartridge annually.
E36 M3 only: Renew throttle valve potentiometer.
ADDITIONAL ITEM EVERY 36000 MILES OR 3 YEARS
Replace toothed cambelt M20 & M40 engines.
ENGINE TEST
Cars with distributor; check the dwell angle and adjust ignition timing if necessary.
Call up information on defects stored in diagnosis system.
Check EML safety path circuit.
Check idle speed except on vehicles with idle speed control.
Check CO reading (except catalyst version).
CHECK OPERATION OF LIGHTS WITH ASSISTANT
FRONT
Side lights.
Dipped beam.
Main beam.
Headlight flasher.
Foglights/Driving lights.
Indicators and side repeaters.
Hazard warning flashers.
Parking lights.
Check beam settings.
REAR
Side lights
Number plate light.
Brake lights.
Reversing lights.
Fog lights.
Indicators.
Hazard warning flashers.
Boot interior lamp.
INTERIOR
Interior and reading lights.
Ashtray lights.
Glovebox light.
Panel lights including dimmer.
Clock light.
Switches and heater control lighting.
Check all warning lights including Active check control.
Check operation of heater/vent controls and blower.
Check operation of door mirrors.
Check horn all segments.
Check operation of sunroof.
Check operation of convertible roof.
Check condition, operation of seat belts.
Check wipers, blades, jet aim on windscreen and headlight washer systems.
Check engine compartment light.
Check door, bonnet & boot locks and striker plates adjustment and lubrication.
ROAD TEST
Check engine operation.
Check clutch operation.
Check transmission operation including EH gearbox.
Check steering operation.
Check steering wheel alignment.
Check foot brake operation.
Check handbrake balance-on cars fitted with rear discs: bed in handbrake.
Check wheel balance.
Check propshaft balance.
Check speedometer operation.
Check distance and trip recorder operation.
Check engine revolution counter operation.
Check temperature gauge operation.
Check fuel gauge operation.
Check fuel consumption gauge operation.
Check heater/air conditioning operation.
Check on-board computer operation including head-up display.
Check for wind noise, rattles etc.
FINAL ITEMS
Check ATF level
Activate Service interval indicator
Ensure handbook service record is completed.
Comments
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and I personally would add change automatic transmission fluid and filter

[cyberman]

I can't speak to the specifics of your engine since mine is 96 with the four-banger. But since acquiring my car in April and attempting to get it back to something I'd consider roadworthy, I've been all over the car working on things and looking at things. I've concluded:

Remember the phrase, "It's all about the economy, stupid"? In the case of my car, "It's all about the rubber, stupid". And, to some extent, the plastic.

Case in point: I was going to have the brake fluid power flushed. That was before the crowd here led me to INPA software which would allow me to open the ABS and do it myself. But then, I had the car on the list for a tire replacement (more rubber) and looked at the brake lines. Oh, no: the outer surfaces looked porous, almost like charcoal. Now, that's just the outer surface of a multi-layer part and for all I know they could go another 20 years. But I can't take that chance, they look bad and for all I know they only have a year left. So, this winter, I'll change them out, and the clutch line and that will include the brake flush.

Rubber is everywhere and it degrades over time and the degradation is accelerated by heat:

Cooling system
Vacuum lines
Gaskets, particularly in the engine compartment (valve cover, oil filter housing, etc.). Oil seals are vulnerable but expensive to repair so I'll wait until they appear.
Power steering hoses
Belts (which I replaced along with all the cooling system rubber)
O-rings which are used extensively in everything from the injectors to various seals such as the throttle position sensor. I didn't have any bad ones, but if the part comes off always replace any O-rings you encounter.
Internal rubber is used for sealing in the brake calipers, fuel system pressure lines (more o-rings), master cylinder, etc.

I've found that when things get south, it's often rubber or plastic related. Don't get me started on plastic. Just took my glovebox out and it's a complete disaster.

Even the four-year old tires that looked like they had plenty of tread had to replaced, dry rot cracks were hidden in the depths of the tread.

So, instead of "go west young man", I'd say "go rubber young man".

[bk94si]

Replace the clutch line with a braided line.

[spikeisgr8]

@shogun - If this is what Inspection II is, I have another 10k miles to go until I'll need this is needed (Inspection I was done 6 years ago) and I'm only adding 2-3k miles a year, so it's 3-5 years away.

@cyberman - Everything you listed makes sense to review.

@bk94si - Or stainless steel?

[bk94si]

braided stainless steel.

[E0339]

I was going to have the brake fluid power flushed. That was before the crowd here led me to INPA software which would allow me to open the ABS and do it myself.

Can you go more into this? I will be performing a brake fluid flush shortly. I haven't heard anything about the INPA software helping with the brake flush. How does it help? Thanks!

[cyberman]

I haven't heard anything about the INPA software helping with the brake flush.

I haven't fully researched it yet as it's a few months out and will require a set of new rubber lines (there are six plus another for the clutch, and mine all look deteriorated). But I do know from reading some threads that to properly bleed, one has to move the ABS solenoid to open it and allow flow of fluid through it. I expect one could do without it since, I think, it's normally bypassed. But then a bit of fluid is left in it. I do recall that if you screw it up and allow air to enter the master cylinder than you really do have to move the solenoid to bleed position (INPA calls it something else, I can't recall). If you're just cracking bleed nipples, and carefully, you may not have to move the solenoid. But since I plan to also replace all the rubber and always plan for the worst, I assume I'll have to power flush it.

Again, this is all from "notes" in my head as I perused the many threads here that cover it. Now I only got the engine management system properly connected via the 20 pin under-hood connector. There are other systems that are available but I have as yet not gotten them working. Thus, I was surprised and relieved to see an activator button for the ABS in the section I did get working and I think I clicked on it and heard a mechanical click in the engine bay, but that's all still a bit of an unknown to me.

Do an advanced search here, Titles only, on Bleeding in the Z3 forum (a bit of scrolling to find it) and plenty of threads come up. The most recent was late 2019 where Solimans said:

Also you should not need to activate the ABS unit for a 'normal' bleed...only when the reservoir has ran dry, allowing air into the abs unit. Don't think it can hurt anything, however.

You can find CoconutPete's thread here: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...light=bleeding

Here is a thread https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...light=bleeding that directly relates to the job when the lines are replaced with a lot of good information. And, it contains links to other relevent threads. I find just about all information I need is contained in past threads and it's best to research well. Unfortunately, I hit a number of issues I could not resolve via research and had to pester members here more than I wanted to, but hopefully that's done now.

Note that INPA caused me some time and pain to get working. I have a dedicated PC in the shop now and had to acquire a cable and adapter. I think the main confusion is that the INPA thread was started long ago and different hardware was available, and the number of pages is huge, so one has to read a lot to sort through it. Here's the main thread, started in 2015: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...highlight=INPA

[nevan]

I don't think I have anything new to suggest to what's already mentioned. But I just wanted to say to OP that really nice m roady color combo you got there. One of my all-time favorites for sure.

[spikeisgr8]

I don't think I have anything new to suggest to what's already mentioned. But I just wanted to say to OP that really nice m roady color combo you got there. One of my all-time favorites for sure.

Thanks nevan. It's my favorite grown up toy I've owned to date