brakes and hazard light/switch on after turning car off with key never in key slot

[PaddyC]

The car is a 2009 E93.
Having the following problem with a relay rapidly clicking when the key is not in the socket and the Start button is pressed:
- the hazard light/switch blinks rapidly in unison with the relay clicking
- pushing the start button to finally turn everything off and the hazard light/switch is on and the brake lights are on
- new battery
- tested all fuses
- cleared all codes
- swapped out JBE
- all exterior lights working
- this code keeps coming up 2ACA - DME: Terminal 15-3, line from CAS: electric. - Misc. information

[JDStrickland]

Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery -- no need to disconnect the positive terminal -- and wait for a capacitor somewhere to discharge. When you reconnect the negative terminal, see if you cleared things up, then be certain that you do not do an invalid action -- push the START button without the key fob in place. Do ONLY valid actions until you are sure that the car is working. You may or may not be aware that the new battery needs to be registered with the car, or some such thing. (I'll leave this detail for someone that knows more, maybe I can learn something.)

[PaddyC]

Thanks JD. Willing to try anything at this point. The info in INPA had exactly same battery parameters as the new battery.

[dworthy]

BLUF: you did the battery registration in INPA?

The reason why it's important is that the Voltage regulator lives in the DME, not on the bushes anymore like the E-46 and earlier cars. The DME has a charging schedule or regiment to follow from when the battery is new to when it's old. Typically a battery will last without issues for 6 years, while I've had others last as long as 8 years. The last battery I replaced was in the M3 and it was 12 years old, but it's a summer car so it get trickle charged during the winter.

If you don't do the registration of the battery, the DME will think the battery is old, and overcharge it thus shorting the lifespan of the battery itself.

[PaddyC]

Hi Darin,
Yes, changed the mileage, but the amp hours were the same and regular battery lead acid battery, anything else that needs to be changed?
Thanks

[dworthy]

Nope, that's about it, for you should be good then.

[PaddyC]

Hey Folks,
Hopefully this may help someone. The solution to the relay clicking , ticking , chattering whatever you want to call it was caused by the CAS Module. The biggest issue were the taillights and hazard switch light staying on after shutting the car off. It would take literally 5 to 20 on/off cycles to finally get these lights off. After investigation, found out the mechanical accidentally grounded his ratchet to the battery jump post (cover missing) when changing out the motor mounts. Did not really notice this issue right away as other problems on the car were being repaired. Long story short - Precision ECU (https://www.precisionecu.com/) to the rescue. Bought a used CAS off ebay and a used key FOB and sent both CAS units and both keys to Precision ECU. They program the keys for free. Got the cloned CAS back, plug and play, and finally all the issues are gone! Hope this helps someone.
Regards,
Pat

[dworthy]

Thank-you for coming back to close out the thread, glad you were able to fix the issue.