Putting my M3 back on the road

[nickylemns]

IMG_1512.jpgHello all. After probably 5 years of my e46 m3 sitting, I dream to put it back into daily use, and get back to enjoying the car. I would like some advice on what preventative maintenance you would do to the car for it to be reliable and fun after having sat so long.

A little background-
2002 silver m3, dove interior, with 6 spd. Bought in 2007 with 13k miles, currently has 82k. Car is stock except for AA exhaust, and Pss9 suspension. I got stranded after losing a coil pack- 3rd time in ownership-, and after sending the car in for new coil packs, I had the valves adjusted, and the fluids changed in the trans and differential with liquimoly as well as an oil change. Car drove around the neighborhood every few weeks until power steering line failed, and then the car has sat.

Where would you guys start in terms of refurbishing the car? I know letting it sit has been the worst thing for it.

-I am replacing the power steering pump, as I drove it for 5-6 miles in traffic after the line blowing, and probably smoked it dry.
-Cooling system, I know this is expensive, but I assume I should do thermostat and water pump + fluid flush, but would you all advise, or should I just get after it and replace it all?
-Fuel filter, never been replaced, car has sat with very little fuel in it
-VANOS I know when the valves were adjusted we upgraded the bolts with the newer BMW versions or whatever. What should I budget to have the dr.Vanos service done or what is suggested
- Brake fluid flush, I have upgraded SS-lines
-Bushings, everything's original. I would even like to send the suspension out for rebuild but thats down the road.
-I have never done wheel bushings on the car

Thank you for all of your input.
As a make moves here and order parts, I will make sure to do my best to keep updated
-Nicky

[lmtfi]

I'd put it up on a lift and start making a list. Most bushings and belts are suspect...anything rubber, Guibo. Tires need to go. All fluids (oil, brake, trans, coolant). Have a knowledgeable shop make a close inspection at classic subframe points. Hunt for corrosion. A hard look at all brake components. Rebuild calipers as a minimum. Check rotors and pads with an eye to replacement.

How old is the cooling system?

[eacmen]

New ps pump and lines. Inspect rack for damage if the fluid ran dry. Usually lines are the issue of a leak.

Inspect bushings and replace if needed. Any reputable shop can do this.

If exhaust hub tab was inspected at last valve service and there are no signs of vanos fault it can wait. Budget for dr vanos treatment at some point.

If engine starts to run hot then address cooling system. Just do a flush and see how it is.

Depending on when rod bearings were last done look into changing them every 60-80k miles.

If you're running LM oil do more frequent oil changes (5k miles)


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[nickylemns]

I'd put it up on a lift and start making a list. Most bushings and belts are suspect...anything rubber, Guibo. Tires need to go. All fluids (oil, brake, trans, coolant). Have a knowledgeable shop make a close inspection at classic subframe points. Hunt for corrosion. A hard look at all brake components. Rebuild calipers as a minimum. Check rotors and pads with an eye to replacement.

How old is the cooling system?

Thank you, I need to get the car in the air asap and do some digging. I have budgeted around 5k and hope to save some money by ordering the parts online and not getting up-charged at a shop. I have never had the subframes inspected and at some point should budget for that job. I have always done my best to change the oil in the 5k mile time frame, at least top it off as I've always noticed it does drink some oil. Pads and rotors fairly new, but brake calipers never touched. The cooling system is entirely original.

[nickylemns]

New ps pump and lines. Inspect rack for damage if the fluid ran dry. Usually lines are the issue of a leak.

Inspect bushings and replace if needed. Any reputable shop can do this.

If exhaust hub tab was inspected at last valve service and there are no signs of vanos fault it can wait. Budget for dr vanos treatment at some point.

If engine starts to run hot then address cooling system. Just do a flush and see how it is.

Depending on when rod bearings were last done look into changing them every 60-80k miles.

If you're running LM oil do more frequent oil changes (5k miles)


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I will order new Pump and Lines for power steering, I was worried about the rack as I assume you can heat the pump up to the point it sends metal through the rack. I would not know how to diagnose this but hopefully that is not the case. I would hate to do a new pump and potentially blow it up with residual from the old pump. I dont know how long it takes to destroy itself but it doesn't seem to be making any crazy noises.

I have no Idea about the exhaust hub tab but I did have a reputable shop do the work and they changed the bolts to the newer post recalled versions. I ultimately can deal with issues as I know the cars aren't perfect, I just want to do a good 50k miles in the next 2-3 years, and want to avoid something catastrophic, like sending the temp gauge through the moon or having the vanos fail and clack the valves. Anything that could grenade the motor

Forgive me, I dont know enough about what happens in those scenarios, I just want to make sure to avoid them. The rod bearings apparently were done at the dealership before my ownership which means my motor has about 70k on current bearings.

In terms of Vanos, and Rod bearings, as well as the subframe reinforcements, sounds like I should start putting some money aside...

[dworthy]

I for one will never recommend Dr. VANOS to anybody after the experience I've had with them.

Now if you like do go for the hub upgrade, and the oil pump disk, but for rebuilding I wouldn't do that unless you have codes, or noise from the VANOS.

I would see about replacing the whole cooling system, just short of the heater hoses and valve. Normally it is a 10-year thing, as I have done everything myself as well except for the radiator. You have to just keep an eye on that, for once the bottom starts to sag, it's time. I only drive mine in the summer, and even then only about 4k a year and I am sitting at 105k miles. Bought the car with 60k in 10, so only put 45k in the past 10 years.

I too think the rack itself will be just fine, be sure to get a new reservoir as there's a filter built into it that you cannot replace sadly.

And no, I haven't replaced my bearing yet, that too will come in time. I am not the kind of guy who lives in the 7k RPM zone, as that's where most of the wear comes from.

[lmtfi]

Thank you, I need to get the car in the air asap and do some digging. I have budgeted around 5k and hope to save some money by ordering the parts online and not getting up-charged at a shop. I have never had the subframes inspected and at some point should budget for that job. I have always done my best to change the oil in the 5k mile time frame, at least top it off as I've always noticed it does drink some oil. Pads and rotors fairly new, but brake calipers never touched. The cooling system is entirely original.

Plan on replacing the entire cooling system without too much delay. Rebuild calipers. Next oil change take a mid-stream sample and send it to Blackstone for testing (request the free kit online).

[nickylemns]

I will certainly do that. Ordering parts now

[lcrain]

Probably a good idea to have a new power steering pump on hand, but I would replace the lines, put fresh fluid and a new reservoir in there and see how it does. Last race weekend one race my ps reservoir lid came off somehow and it relieved itself of most of the fluid over about 10 min on track. Next race my fancy chase bays high pressure PS line failed and again most of the fluid came out. Swapped out the lines and filled it up with fluid for the next day, no issues with the pump. I certainly shortened the life of the pump, but those s54 pumps are not cheap. I would make sure yours is bad before you replace it.

[nickylemns]

Yea the Genuine BMW pump was around $700 so I cheaped out and went with the OEM replacement Bosch pump which was half the price. They charge a $65 core return policy, but I am going to eat that and keep my genuine pump... I am going to be driving the car a bunch and I dont want issues, or risk of a pump failure sending metal through my rack. Might be thinking of worst case scenario but that why I am doing this.

I ordered from Turner a full cooling system replacement with genuine BMW radiator. Unlike the kit on UUC, it does not come with a new plastic fan or fan clutch. Any reason to be concerned about either of those parts?