Hey
I wanna save my car! I bought a green bmw e34 525i touring when I was 18 with 88k miles on it. I have had it for 9 years and only put 115k on it. Unfortunately I have hit my first big road bump, I have replaced engine coils and starters here and there. But now the car wont work anymore and my mechanic is telling me I need an engine swap due to a crack in the engine block. It has been sitting in a driveway the last four months and I just made a little money I wanted to use to fix it.
Its probably my fault, the car is in great physical condition but over the last few years with travel I haven't taken the best care of the engine and haven't changed the oil nearly enough, I feel bad about that. But I don't wanna let the car die and lease a Prius...
I'm hoping someone can help me track down an engine or another solution to my problem. My mechanic quoted me 3k for labor and the engine, but I want to make sure I am fixing my car the right way.
thanks
Macklin
I'm fairly sure an m52 would swap pretty easy. Look it up
A cracked block is a big deal, also very unlikely in a moderate climate as its usually the result of freezing.
Cracked head perhaps but unless it was already removed no way to say that either.
I vote for a second opinion.
At least give us here some info about symptoms and history.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
Thanks for your response.
I'd say it started with a good deal of shaking, and a noise like something was off with the fan belt. Then it completely stopped starting, I had to get the starter replaced, not a huge job. After that was done my shop told me there was a crack in the block or maybe a cracked head but either way it would need to be replaced. They said the oil had turned solid and that I had not replaced it enough the last time I had had an oil change was probably 9 months prior when I had an ignition coil replaced, So not ideal but not criminal.
If it is indeed a cracked head, can the job be smaller?
Now when I do start it it has a little bit of a lawn mower type sound, Kind of like a broken heart beat or pistons aren't timed correctly. I drove it back from the shop and a few times around the block in the week or so after, they said it was fine to drive short distances at a low speed. But I haven't touched the car in months now.
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Thank you will look into that!
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Thanks for your response.
I'd say it started with a good deal of shaking, and a noise like something was off with the fan belt. Then it completely stopped starting, I had to get the starter replaced, not a huge job. After that was done my shop told me there was a crack in the block or maybe a cracked head but either way it would need to be replaced. They said the oil had turned solid and that I had not replaced it enough the last time I had had an oil change was probably 9 months prior when I had an ignition coil replaced, So not ideal but not criminal.
If it is indeed a cracked head, can the job be smaller?
Now when I do start it it has a little bit of a lawn mower type sound, Kind of like a broken heart beat or pistons aren't timed correctly. I drove it back from the shop and a few times around the block in the week or so after, they said it was fine to drive short distances at a low speed. But I haven't touched the c
Its clear you aren't familiar with engines. Find a reputable shop that knows old BMWs. The local chapter of the BMW club could no doubt make a suggestion.
Driving with bad engine sounds is a recipe for disaster. could be a moot point in your case but no sense in causing further damage.
Anybody who offhandedly suggests a cracked block or head without diagnosis shouldn't be trusted. "oil had turned solid"? this isn't possible.
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
This belongs in the main section, not Hangouts.
Ross' suggestions are, as usual, spot-on. Well, oil can turn solid, but your engine wouldn't run at all if it had. I recommend you find another mechanic, and take a different approach to oilchanges. If you do end up having the engine replaced, also have the rear main seal, front main seal, and oilpan gasket replaced while it's out, and run top-shelf synthetic oil (Amsoil, Mobil, LiquiMoly, to name a couple) from then on. Oil changes will cost the better part of a C-note, but last long enough that in the long run the costs even out, and it's better for the engine in the meantime.
I’m in Los Angeles if you need a helping hand. The mechanic is taking you for a joy ride.
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