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Thread: Removing power roof (convert to manual) 2000 Z3

  1. #1
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    Question Removing power roof (convert to manual) 2000 Z3

    Folks,
    I just bought my first BMW - a 2000 Z3 from a private owner. 2 days later, the hydraulic system that opens/closes the top stopped working properly (won't open or close completely). Fluid level is good and motor/pump working. Twisting the T-valve to bypass hydraulic motor allows manual use; but it is VERY heavy compared to a manual top. So, I'd prefer to just remove the actuator that is connected to the top to make it a manual open/close top. I'm hoping that that will make motion significantly easier than just using the T-valve bypass. Has anyone tried this? Any advice? Did removal of the connection to that actuator make it much easier to open/close? Thanks all!
    Robert

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  3. #3
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    I"ve done it, goes up and down easily while sitting in the driver's seat. Just unhook the cylinder just behind the driver's seat. You can remove the power top pump or not, your choice. I did: gives me a little more room in the trunk. I just unhooked the electric plug and the hoses, put the hose ends in a plastic bag to keep them clean (and I suppose to catch any fluid left in the hose, but there wasn't more than a drop or two).

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by raldrich View Post
    ... I'd prefer to just remove the actuator that is connected to the top to make it a manual open/close top... Did removal of the connection to that actuator make it much easier to open/close? ...
    Here's a guide on accessing the actuator for replacement:
    https://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/bmwz3removalguide.pdf
    My top is manual. I don't find it hard to use, but I do not have the strength to pull the top up while sitting behind the wheel.
    Even standing beside the car, I think it would not be easy for a small woman to raise it out of the well.
    But it must be easier to raise than a disabled power top, because even though the pump is bypassed, you still have to work against whatever friction and residual fluid that the actuator has.
    Last edited by Vintage42; 08-17-2020 at 09:46 AM.
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  5. #5
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    The manual tops used a sprung strut system to replace the actuating ram that power tops had

    You could install said strut, in order to help assist in the raising process (thats what the spring is for)

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  6. #6
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    Okay, I"m going to correct myself. I should have said it goes up "easily for me". I'm a fairly strong guy with short arms. Short arms have an advantage because of the distance between the seat and the grip area on the top. My wife couldn't begin to lift that top, from the seat or the side. I didn't add the strut BB suggests. It's a good idea.
    Last edited by zellamay; 08-17-2020 at 02:27 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker View Post
    The manual tops used a sprung strut system to replace the actuating ram that power tops had. You could install said strut, in order to help assist in the raising process (thats what the spring is for)
    It is a gas strut like for the hood and trunk, that applies some lift assist. The early '97 cars like my 10/96 did not have it.
    https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...94#54318407233
    I ordered a gas strut:
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...g/54318407233/

    But when I got into the job, I saw no ball pins on my top's frame or the car's body as shown in this thread, Post #14:
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...0#post27955200

    I could have ordered the ball pins:
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...n/41218411130/
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...n/41218407017/
    but drilling and tapping their holes was far beyond me, and it seemed the seat and top would have to be removed for access, so I returned the strut.
    Last edited by Vintage42; 08-17-2020 at 01:16 PM.
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  8. #8
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    You answered a question I had. I thought I remembered that my 97, which came with manual top, was no easier than my 98, which had the power top removed. The 97 had no strut.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage42 View Post
    It is a gas strut like for the hood and trunk, that applies some lift assist. The early '97 cars like my 10/96 did not have it.
    https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...94#54318407233
    I ordered a gas strut but when I got into the job, I saw no ball pins on my top's frame or the car's body as shown in this thread, Post #14:
    http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...0#post27955200

    I could have ordered the ball pins, but drilling and tapping their holes was far beyond me so I returned the strut.
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...g/54318407233/
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...n/41218411130/
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...n/41218407017/
    Thanks for the correction, I didnt remember if it was a gas or spring strut.

    Pretty sure (but not positive) it attaches to the same location as the power top strut, so at least those with power tops should have the ball pins needed

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker View Post
    ... Pretty sure (but not positive) it attaches to the same location as the power top strut, so at least those with power tops should have the ball pins needed
    That is what I think, too.
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  11. #11
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    Any chance that you have that PDF file? The website link doesn't seem to work for me. Thanks!

  12. #12
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    Since you have to get out of the car to put the towel over the window before closing the top, the power top really is useless.

    I might revert mine to manual operation as well, I bet it is faster than using the power top with the towel.

  13. #13
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    How does manual operation keep you from needing the towel? ..... Also, I've made this comment before: I've never used a towel. At the cost of a window every few years, I figure I'm earning about 25 cents every time I would use a towel.
    Takes the fun out of just dropping the top.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by zellamay View Post
    How does manual operation keep you from needing the towel? ..... Also, I've made this comment before: I've never used a towel. At the cost of a window every few years, I figure I'm earning about 25 cents every time I would use a towel.
    Takes the fun out of just dropping the top.
    I'm saying (if you use the towel) you have to get out of the car anyway and at that point it is probably faster to just flop the top back by hand.

    I agree it does take some of the fun out of dropping the top.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by zellamay View Post
    ... I've never used a towel. At the cost of a window every few years...
    What requires replacing your window every few years of not using a towel?
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  16. #16
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    I'll bet the microswitch stopped working. Easily replaced.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage42 View Post
    What requires replacing your window every few years of not using a towel?
    I assume people are using the towel to keep the window from getting scratched. Why else would you do it? So, without a towel, the window will scratch and need replacement sooner.

  18. #18
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    Yes, a towel will avoid/reduce scratching. My window is the original and has scratches from previous owner. I used Meguiar's Plast-X cleaner that helped reduce scratches and clear up visibility.

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