New to me 91 850i with a few issues

[Laserface]

Car doesn't run very smoothly, seems like it has a misfire. Check engine light illuminated briefly on the drive home, but went out and I haven't seen it since. Since I don't have a functioning CEL, I can't pull codes with the stomp test.

I pulled the cluster out and swapped the bulbs for the brake light and CEL. Brake light illuminates with both bulbs, CEL stays dark, so it seems the issue is not the bulb. Is there something further I can do to restore the CEL?

I don't technically need the CEL, because there are no vehicle inspections in my area. If I had an alternate way to pull codes, I could do without it. It sure would be nice to make it function again though.


The car has a few other issues, but for me they are secondary to the CEL/pulling codes/running rough problem.

No audio. Radio powers on. It will switch modes and seek stations, but nothing from the speakers. There is a pretty loud beep or tone when the ignition switch is turned on. Could this be the car phone?

The power column doesn't adjust. No whir or grunt from the motors, nothing. I used the manual adjustment screw to lower the wheel enough to remove the instrument cluster. I've read about switching the module. My car has memory, but I don't care if it does or not. Could i switch in a non memory module and hopefully restore the column adjust function? The non memory modules are significantly cheaper than the memory modules.

Only the driver's side power window switches light up on the driver's door. That's 2 out of 4 lit up on the driver's door. Replace the switches?

The "Temp" button on the MID sits lower than the others It gives no feedback when pressed, like its already depressed. Is there a way to remove/replace/repair these buttons?

Thanks in advance for any insight.

[rjjablo]

"Check" light is on the Right
"Check Engine" is on the left

For both of them the sequence is turn the ignition to On and they should light up and then 3-4 seconds go out

Start the car and they will do what they are going to do

My Check light stays on for 30 seconds to a minute and then goes away

This is for a E32 with the V12, similar problems.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ight-EML-light

or it could be this

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...k-engine-light

[Laserface]

I submitted this about 5 hours ago, but it was pending mod approval. Since then, I've realized my mistake with the "CHECK" vs "CHECK ENGINE". On the left side of the cluster (from the driver's seat) there should be 7 bulbs. I had 6. Someone had removed the CEL socket. So I sacrificed the seat belt bulb and socket. CEL functions. Got code 1444. So I'm dead in the water on codes. The car runs, and smooths a little as warms up. It idles pretty well, but definitely has a misfire. Same when driving, smooth with low load, but definitely a misfire under load. Thanks for the links, I'll check them out.

Update on the audio issue. There is a lightly audible pop when turning the head unit on/off (volume knob all the way left). This indicates to me that the speakers are getting power, but that the head unit isn't raising the volume. When I get time, I'll pull the head unit and see if I can learn anything by checking the wiring.

[rjjablo]

Fault Codes 1444 No Failures

Running Better after warming up is classic Intake Manifold Gaskets, Do below first though because Cheap and Easy Manifold are

If it sat for longer than 6 months pull the fuel pumps and inspect and dump all the gas for fresh

Pull and Inspect Spark Plugs Should be the Cheap NGK's, Test all your spark plug wire 6K Ohms, Inspect Caps and Rotors, Review Air Cleaner if the oiled ones, pull and clean your MAF's. Squeeze rubber part above MAF Sensor, mine was so hard I thought it was plastic, Inspect PVC Both sides for cracks and leaks. Test Cam Position Sensor 550 Ohms.

Might as well pull and inspect every fuze for you steering column

[Laserface]

I've isolated the misfire to #2 cylinder. I first unplugged the RH bank injectors, then started the car running only on the LH. Ran smoother than all 12. Did the opposite, running only on the RH side. Definitely running rough. Unplugging injectors one at a time isolated #2 as the bad cylinder. Unplugging 1, 3-6 made the car run worse, unplugging 2 had very little effect.

This leads me to believe plug and/or wire. I think if it were an intake gasket or a sensor, the issue would be more than just #2. I'll change the plugs and test the wires. The cabin filters are grody. I'll replace those and the engine air filters, just so i know where I stand.

Found a large number of other small issues. Pressure builds up in the fuel tank, so I need to go through the Evap system. The A/C isn't great when idlling or low speeds, but blows very cold at highway speeds. Found the pusher fan inop. Tires need balanced or likely replaced. There is clunk in the steering column if you saw at the wheel. There is a clunk from the rear when going from acceleration to deceleration. Slip yoke or differential mounts? I haven't actually been under the car yet, so I have no idea if the car even has a slip yoke.

I'm going to run into A LOT of deferred maintenance on this car, I believe. It had 2 mismatched, old batteries. I have those out, but have not yet gotten the proper, matching batteries installed.

[rjjablo]

Clunk under accel/Decel could be Motor Mounts, Trans Mounts, any number of rear bushings. Driveshaft in all its glory. Crawl Underneath and give it a shake, could also be the center bearing. My Front U-Joint was shot.

[Laserface]

Buying this car made it the 5th car I currently own, so I'm not in a super rush the get it fixed. I pulled plugs 1 thru 6 today. I have (hopefully) attached a picture. Left plug is 6, and right plug is 1. I had time to check the resistance on only one plug wire before the battery died in my multimeter. The number 2 plug wire had 6170ohms, which I assume well within the +/- of the 6k spec you mentioned earlier. Thanks for your input rjjablo, I'll update as I have time to get more done on the car.

[Laserface]

Apparently I somehow confused number 2 and 3 cylinders. Which makes since, because number 2 plug looks ok, and 3 is obviously fouled. The number 3 plug wire has no continuity. New NGK ZFR5F plugs are in and new wires are ordered.

[Joe850V12]

awesome, welcome to the craziness, it took me about 9 months of similar troubleshooting, but basically tune up, I did end up doing PCV system, intake gaskets, cam cover gaskets, fuel lines, etc. etc. the forum is so great with many DIY write ups. these cars get pretty reliable but there is always a winter list.

[PabloRock]

The plugs you want are NGK BKR6EK. The ones you ordered have too much resistance (5k vs 1k). It will help a bit on rough idle problems (but sealing the intake gaskets is best for that). Of course #3 looks like it hasn't fired in quite awhile and your main issue.

[Laserface]

Plugs and wires are in, as well as proper batteries. Car is running well. Idle isn't perfectly smooth, though. I'll get the car hooked up to a smoke machine sometime to check for vacuum leaks. If i find nothing else wrong, I'll swap out for the 1k resistance plugs in pursuit of silky smooth idle. The pusher fan on the condenser had a blown fuse. Replacing the fuse restored the fan, and improved low speed A/C.

Now, I need to diagnose:
Clunk in the steering
Clunk in the driveline
The infamous 55 mph shake
A similar shake under certain braking conditions
Inop radio
Inop steering column
Shaking headlights
Bad/plugged evap valve causing a fuel smell
Drifting fuel gauge

Control arm bushings are looking rough on the front. I think they may be the source of the shake/wobble/shimmy. I haven't had a helper to torque the driveline while i watch, so i haven't made any progress on the driveline clunk. The steering clunk seems to be coming directly from the steering box, but I'll investigate further. My biggest concern now is the evap system, because raw fuel, liquid or vapor, is never safe.

[rjjablo]

Shaking headlights is broken adjusters that are no longer available
Spend the $ on spherical bearings for up front from Moose or Wokke

[Laserface]

Poking around on Wokke's website, adjusters are available, but only for ECE headlights. So my option on the headlights is new housings, which are available?

[rjjablo]

Housings are available they do not come with the adjuster pieces. Take them apart, be carefull all the plastic is brittle. I replaced my adjusters with clear plastic tubing. PIA to adjust but they stay put. Check your wiring for decay also

[PabloRock]

The intake manifold fix will help your idle dramatically. Mine still not perfect (don't think I used enough sealant), but much much better than before. Control arms are a popular failure. Luckily mine are still in good shape, but eventually will go with the Wokke arms (heard good things about them). Check your evap canister. They tend to rust out. There are plenty of write up out there on how to refurb.

[Laserface]

New front control arms are in, and the 55 mph shake is massively reduced. Tore into the headlights. Bad news is the housings are junk. Good news is that the adjusters are ok. I got them patched up enough to stop shaking. Needing to do some home repairs, but once I've saved up some money, I'll get new housings, and the little shocks.

[acheson850i]

New front control arms are in, and the 55 mph shake is massively reduced. Tore into the headlights. Bad news is the housings are junk. Good news is that the adjusters are ok. I got them patched up enough to stop shaking. Needing to do some home repairs, but once I've saved up some money, I'll get new housings, and the little shocks.

There are some excellent videos posted here by Timm. I fixing my headlamps...he has an excellent work around for the broken adjusters. You do not have to spend a lot of money on plugs or batteries ... I am in NC...you can probably get away with one larger battery... have fun...!

[Laserface]

Haven't had much time to mess with the car lately. After sitting for 3 weeks, the battery is completely dead. So add finding a battery draw to my to do list. The evap issue causing the fuel smell was the valve in the right rear wheel well. The part is no longer available, but I ordered the Nissan valve that's been documented to work.

[rjjablo]

Classic Battery Draw and the first thing to look at is the capacitors in the GM Module, Pull it and send it to Scott D, on this board, $50 ish well spent

Located on drivers side. Put the back on your head on the brake pedal and look up and the right. Its the one in the middle

[Laserface]

The car came with non-OE wheels. I sourced a set of OE wheels (sans tires) and sold what was on the car. I've decided not to use the OE. While I'm waiting on new wheels, the car is on jack stands.

Since I had down time, the GM is on its way to Scott. He's going to try to salvage my steering memory module as well. The left valve cover is leaking, and I want to check the banjo bolts. So, valve cover gaskets. I've starting tearing into it, and realised I might as well do the fuel lines, vacuum lines. Reinzosil is on the way to reseal the intake. Since I'm doing all this, I've ordered the 1k ohm plugs.

I guess while I'm in the fixing mood, I'll go ahead and pull the front seats to do the cable fix. They're not adjusting in every direction. Since I'll have the front seats out, it'll be very easy to pull the rears to check the flaky fuel level sending unit.

Once all this is done, the rear suspension will be next. It needs freshening up, and the output flanges are leaking on the differential.

What have I gotten myself into?

[rjjablo]

While you are in there you can check/adjust your cam timing

I drilled and safety Wired my Banjo Bolts, others have used loctite or those copper tabs

You should spend the time and replace all the fuel lines both above the tank, and around the fuel filters also

If you are going to drop the rear subframe for the rear suspension, you can drop the tank easy and get to the hard to replace lines on the tank without cutting the holes

[Laserface]

In search of the clunk in the steering column, I separated the steering column from the steering box at the u-joint. Good news is I found the clunk, bad news if its the steering box. The box feels to have very little play when driving, and once you're moving, the clunk disappears. Sitting still however, moving the wheel back and forth produces a clunk or knock in the box that can be heard and felt through the steering wheel. This is easily produced with just my hand on the u-joint working the box back and forth. So I'll be hunting either a rebuilt box, or a rebuilder service.

On a completely unrelated note, while removing the wiring harness to pull the fuel rail, I found this little plug floating near the oil filter housing. I've searched, but I've found nothing it might go to.

20201003_133009.jpg

[petejk]

Pretty sure that’s the plug that the additional alternator harness connects to.

I just replaced steering components including steering box, pitman arm etc. I won’t know until I drive the car whether the effort was worth it.

Good luck in your search for a box replacement/rebuild - there are seal kits out there, and also replacements for the internal ball bearings within the steering box, but ultimately, if the box is worn out, it may need replacement.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Timm]

If the engine is not running there will be a little play and noise if the steering wheel is turned - that is quite normal. The 'play' is the area where the internal valves direct hydraulic pressure which is why you don't notice it when driving as the steering box rotates the output under that hydraulic pressure.

However, you can have excessive​ play and you need to work out if that is the case - but the engine needs to be running!

[Laserface]

Posted, then accidentally deleted while trying to edit...

I'd posted that play wasn't excessive, but that the clunk was there even when the car was running while stationary. But I was thinking, and I may be misremembering. It might not clunk while running. I'll test it when the car is running again. If it goes away while running, I'll drive more and worry less.

Thanks for the plug ID.