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Thread: Wheel bearing job HELP

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Wheel bearing job HELP

    Hello, I have a 2002 BMW Z3 3.0. I've been trying to change my wheel bearings but I CANNOT get the rear axle output half shaft/ rear drive axle to separate from the differential. I tried heat, penetrant, and a chisel. At this point I'm gonna let the penetrant soak over night. I linked a photo so we are all on the same page. Any advise on how to get it off would be great because right now my car is not derivable. It has to be corroded to the flange.

    https://imgur.com/hjhhMxY
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Roscoe458; 08-08-2020 at 06:14 PM.

  2. #2
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    For a stubborn one, I can usually just give a rap on the outer circumference__impact to both flanges (axle & diff)__with a rawhide mallet. I've never needed to resort to wedging a screwdriver between them, let alone a chisel.

    Given the scope of the project, getting the axle to separate from the diff isn't even a blip on the radar; are you sure you want to go any further? Well, if you do, I encourage you to follow the TIS (and leave the angle-grinder in the bottom drawer of your toolbox...).

  3. #3
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    Randy, why would it not split I don't get it ether? I've been following the Bentley manual. But it wont split.

    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    For a stubborn one, I can usually just give a rap on the outer circumference__impact to both flanges (axle & diff)__with a rawhide mallet. I've never needed to resort to wedging a screwdriver between them, let alone a chisel.

    Given the scope of the project, getting the axle to separate from the diff isn't even a blip on the radar; are you sure you want to go any further? Well, if you do, I encourage you to follow the TIS (and leave the angle-grinder in the bottom drawer of your toolbox...).

  4. #4
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    Have you thoroughly researched this job? Randy obliquely alludes to extremely difficult aspects to the job that require more than one expensive special tool and a very well sorted shop. If you haven't already addressed getting the axle out of the hub (and back in btw), you should stop and consider putting it back together while you still can. Here is a recent thread on the subject that illustrates the point, but there have been many over the years, This a "fools rush in..." job, so be forewarned

  5. #5
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    You could put the bolts bac in loosely lower the car go forward and reverse just a bit

  6. #6
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    This video shows the process and some of the tools pretty well

    https://youtu.be/q_kenFE248U

    About separating the half shaft. There must be some corrosion holding it on. Is the rubber mallet not doing it?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #7
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    Ive done this job 3 times without special tools. I would use penetrant (deep creep, works well) and rotate the shaft while hitting it with a soft hammer. I would listen to Randy Forbes and Mr Bingley. Its not an easy job (the first time). Make sure you know what this takes and dont give up once you start! When putting the new axle in (with out special tools if that is what you are doing) file the edges of the shaft splines just a smidge to help installation. If you use the right tools, you wont have to do this. makes sure the bearing splines and the shaft splines are CLEAN ENOUGH TO EAT OFF OF with a smidge of grease before assembly. Good luck!

    Job 1 -replaced old bearings
    job 2- replaced replacement bearings (failed after 100k--they were off brand from china--stupid) and replaced transaxles at the same time
    job 3- one transaxle boot lost its grip on the shaft and let all the grease out....
    Last edited by Sleepyhead97; 08-09-2020 at 11:17 AM.

  8. #8
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    Thank you for those who tried to help. I have every tool needed for this job. I am an aircraft mechanic and this job is not difficult it’s simply pulling and pushing bearings. I can only assume I’m dealing with a corroded flange that won’t separate. Any ideas on how to make that happen would be greatly appreciated.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bingley View Post
    Have you thoroughly researched this job? Randy obliquely alludes to extremely difficult aspects to the job that require more than one expensive special tool and a very well sorted shop. If you haven't already addressed getting the axle out of the hub (and back in btw), you should stop and consider putting it back together while you still can. Here is a recent thread on the subject that illustrates the point, but there have been many over the years, This a "fools rush in..." job, so be forewarned

  9. #9
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    Sounds like you are capable of the job since you work on airplanes (I would hope heheeh). Just going to take time and a good soaking with a hammer. I liked jclausens comment on leaving bolts loose and going forward and reverse a bit, but be careful with this one and dont mess the bolts up.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sleepyhead97 View Post
    Sounds like you are capable of the job since you work on airplanes (I would hope heheeh). Just going to take time and a good soaking with a hammer. I liked jclausens comment on leaving bolts loose and going forward and reverse a bit, but be careful with this one and dont mess the bolts up.
    On second thought, I think what would end up happening with jclausen's method is the end cap would come off the axle exposing the CV joint and leaking grease... I probably wouldn't try it unless it was my last option.
    Last edited by Sleepyhead97; 08-09-2020 at 12:23 PM.

  11. #11
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    I've soak in Penetrate for two days, rotating it and even spraying in the bolt holes, and tapping with a brass hammer, I can't get it off. I'm trying both sides to see if just one of them will budge with no luck. I know I will get it, but this car is stubborn. The car was located in FL for a time. Only thing I can think is it's corroded to the flange. Going back to the drawing board to try to think of a way to separate it. I'm considering putting the tires back on with the bolts attached loosely to see if that can get it to budge. Don't want to damage anything (number one concern) but I'm trying to figure out where to go from here. What do yall think? Any advise still would be great.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sleepyhead97 View Post
    On second thought, I think what would end up happening with jclausen's method is the end cap would come off the axle exposing the CV joint and leaking grease... I probably wouldn't try it unless it was my last option.

  12. #12
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    Heat, and deep creep, and hammer... All I got. Anyone else? I could be wrong but I don't see the end cap staying on the axle when the bolts are loose and driving.
    Last edited by Sleepyhead97; 08-12-2020 at 08:28 AM.

  13. #13
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    So you are saying last resort loosing the bolts and try to slowly forward and reverse?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sleepyhead97 View Post
    Heat, and deep creep, and hammer... All I got. Anyone else? I could be wrong but I don't see the end cap staying on the axle when the bolts are loose and driving.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roscoe458 View Post
    So you are saying last resort loosing the bolts and try to slowly forward and reverse?
    That was jclausen who said that. I mean if you tried everything go for it I guess

    What I was referring to is there is a cap on these rear axles that hold grease in the cv joint. I EXPECT that cap to come off the CV JOINT and stay on the diff. Maybe that will help you though but it's going to be messy
    Last edited by Sleepyhead97; 08-12-2020 at 05:30 PM.

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