BMW 328i e46 (acceleration problem)

[josehcb]

HI forum guys, my name is José

I'm new here on the forum and I looked for if I didn't have a topic similar to the problem, but I didn't find it.

I have the following problem happening with my BMW 328 E46 2000. When the engine is in working condition it starts to lose performance both in terms of acceleration, starting, and in terms of accelerator sensitivity (you need to step a lot for it to wake up . It is also noted that with the loss of performance the excessive heat increase in the exhaust and when I get home the hood looks like it will melt and the smell of the hot engine is strong. This problem occurs more when the engine is at the ideal operating temperature, which makes no sense and makes me and my mechanic sad because I don't know what to do: cry:. Below is a list of what we have already done in the car and we were unable to find the problem: NOTE: A delay in the 10th point was already noticed, but the sensor is reading correctly and a test has already been done (like a part that sends a different signal to the module) to delay the point and did not solve.

- Test of old candles and exchange them for new ones;
- Test on the coils to know if the right current is going to the candles;
- Nozzle equalization test (all perfect);
- Cylinder compression test (loss of 3%, for what he said is nothing);
- Replacement of the part that generates vacuum for the system (lung diaphragm )
- Changing the VANOS seal;
- Changing the engine air filter;
- Changing the fuel filter;
- Changing the fuel pump;
- Changing the butterfly body;
- Replacement of the exhaust rotation sensor;
- Car module check (nothing wrong was found)
- Checking the exhaust system (nothing was found wrong).
- Walk only with the throttle body, as well as the MAF switched off. (Nothing has changed)

So guys I'm asking for some suggestion that will solve the problem, my mechanic wants to open the engine due to the high cost of labor and not knowing what to look for, but he said that we have already done all possible tests with the car that way .

[Muzz258]

Hi Jose

Welcome to the forum from New Zealand.

You and your mechanic have done a lot of work on the car. Thank you for listing all of the work.

The only thing I can think of is a faulty inlet cam shaft sensor. They sometimes fail without showing a trouble code. The typical symptoms are:
- A long crank before the engine starts.
- The engine is under powered because the engine computer does not know where the inlet cam shaft is positioned and turns off the VANOS control.

Use only good quality cam shaft sensors as the aftermarket ones often fail.

[MarcoZandrini]

The first step in diagnosing a problem is to scan the engine computer (DME in BMWspeak) for codes. If the car has an automatic transmission then scan its computer (EGS) for codes.

Throwing parts are a problem wastes money, doesn’t fix the problem and it angers the BMW goddesses.

[josehcb]

Hi Jose

Welcome to the forum from New Zealand.

You and your mechanic have done a lot of work on the car. Thank you for listing all of the work.

The only thing I can think of is a faulty inlet cam shaft sensor. They sometimes fail without showing a trouble code. The typical symptoms are:
- A long crank before the engine starts.
- The engine is under powered because the engine computer does not know where the inlet cam shaft is positioned and turns off the VANOS control.

Use only good quality cam shaft sensors as the aftermarket ones often fail.

Hello,Muzz258
thanks for reply

It is one of this WhatsApp Image 2020-03-20 at 20.06.55.jpeg parts? I had changed the first one for a parallel part

[josehcb]

The first step in diagnosing a problem is to scan the engine computer (DME in BMWspeak) for codes. If the car has an automatic transmission then scan its computer (EGS) for codes.

Throwing parts are a problem wastes money, doesn’t fix the problem and it angers the BMW goddesses.

Hi MarcoZandrini

My mechanic has scanned, but there isn't fault codes. He Just gave me a information "my engine is advanced 10º in the original position of engine". Then we don't know why.
He sad too this type of engine does not appear a specific fail apart, because of that he had a lot of work for nothing until now.

Do You think I need go to official bmw mechanic to discover if there is a fail code?

[MarcoZandrini]

What software did your mechanic use to scan the DME? At the minimum he should have used INPA. The software itself is free but you’ll need a laptop and a cable. Check the diagnostic software for information. BaliDawg can load and configure the software via the internet for free. Just PM him.

[josehcb]

What software did your mechanic use to scan the DME? At the minimum he should have used INPA. The software itself is free but you’ll need a laptop and a cable. Check the diagnostic software for information. BaliDawg can load and configure the software via the internet for free. Just PM him.

he gave me the information. he use LAUNCH Creader 3001 and Scanner automotive Bluetooth Autocom. I don't know if is good or not, but he saw some fail codes and clean .

[MarcoZandrini]

You need to take the car to a reputable indie shop that specializes in bimmers. The shop has to have the proprietary BMW software to properly diagnose the problem.

[josehcb]

You need to take the car to a reputable indie shop that specializes in bimmers. The shop has to have the proprietary BMW software to properly diagnose the problem.

Then I need find a place specializes in bimmers, who use INPA? or could be another specfic scanner?
My question is for calling for places for which type of scanner? because here they said specializes in bimmers, but I don't know if is true

[Muzz258]

You can set up the INPA software your self. All you need is a windows computer and some cheap special leads. Below is a link to the free INPA software and advice on the leads and installation process.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...xperimentation

[josehcb]

You can set up the INPA software your self. All you need is a windows computer and some cheap special leads. Below is a link to the free INPA software and advice on the leads and installation process.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...xperimentation

I am thinking this, but i little bit afraid of. Maybe is the only way.
Muzz258 and that parts i had mentioned before, is one of that i need to change? because I believe is the key in front of this "A delay in the 10th point was already noticed", my mechanic told me.

[MarcoZandrini]

Buy a used windows (windows 7 or 10) laptop, buy the cable and download inpa. Then PM BaliDawg. He’ll get inpa properly installed via the internet.

[josehcb]

Buy a used windows (windows 7 or 10) laptop, buy the cable and download inpa. Then PM BaliDawg. He’ll get inpa properly installed via the internet.

Ok, I need buy the two cables? or one is best then other? I will search for on ebay.

[josehcb]

Another thing
DME.jpg this part I had replaced the exhaust, how I reprogram the DME? Because now I am asking the mechanic if him did this.

[Muzz258]

You do not have to worry about having the DME reprogrammed. The new program went into production on 17/6/98. Your car is a 2000 model, so already has the new program.

Full details can be found in https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/2a7u6UU

[josehcb]

You do not have to worry about having the DME reprogrammed. The new program went into production on 17/6/98. Your car is a 2000 model, so already has the new program.

Full details can be found in https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...system/2a7u6UU

Then I only need replace the part, in my case I had replaced the exhaust didn't work 100%.
Now I am looking for a notebook. Because the cables I will take borrow at mechanic

Edit
I talked today with mechanic, he told me my BMW don't have OBD2 port, just 20 pin. It is a problem? Then I need but a USB to OBD to use de 20 pin cable of him. Could be?

[Muzz258]

Your car should have an OBD11 port under the steering wheel column. The OBD11 port will only let you read the engine computer.

You will have a 20 pin round connector under the bonnet/hood. This will allow you to read all the computers in the car.

You will need two (2) cables
1) The USB to OBD11 cable with FT232RL chip
2) OBD11 to 20 pin connector cable.

Here are both in one purchase. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-BMW-I...MAAOSwyDFd05E2

Does you car have a manual or automatic transmission?

If it is an automatic transmission, is the transmission warning light on? Its the yellow one that looks like a cog with a "!" in the middle?

[josehcb]

Your car should have an OBD11 port under the steering wheel column. The OBD11 port will only let you read the engine computer.

You will have a 20 pin round connector under the bonnet/hood. This will allow you to read all the computers in the car.

You will need two (2) cables
1) The USB to OBD11 cable with FT232RL chip
2) OBD11 to 20 pin connector cable.

Here are both in one purchase. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-BMW-I...MAAOSwyDFd05E2

Does you car have a manual or automatic transmission?

If it is an automatic transmission, is the transmission warning light on? Its the yellow one that looks like a cog with a "!" in the middle?

About that:
1- The OBD2 is different of OBD11?. (the mechanic told me my car don't have OBD2 port)
2- I am looking for the cable on ebay, for my luck is the same of you show me. (If I need, he borrow me the OBD1 to 20 pin)
3- My car have automatic transmission, but the the is different is a circle in the middle of two parentheses. Never appeared in my car. Just the ! in middle of triangle, now solved
When the cable arrive I will send a message, until there I will looking for the notebook with battery, because I read is more safer then direct on light

[Muzz258]

OBD2 and OBD11 are the same. The "11" is 2 in roman numbers.

[josehcb]

OBD2 and OBD11 are the same. The "11" is 2 in roman numbers.

Thanks for information. Like I sad He told me I don't have OBDII and because this is more difficult to diagnose.

[josehcb]

OBD2 and OBD11 are the same. The "11" is 2 in roman numbers.

Buy a used windows (windows 7 or 10) laptop, buy the cable and download inpa. Then PM BaliDawg. He’ll get inpa properly installed via the internet.

Hello Guys
Finally has arrived the item. I Installed and scanned the car. Now that is the image of problems :
Error memory
Error Memory.jpg
Error shadow memory

Error Shadow Memory 1.jpgError Shadow Memory 2.jpgError Shadow Memory 3.jpg

Just for know, I have erased the error code before.

[Muzz258]

Do not worry about the shadow codes. They are items that the DME is monitoring but have not yet turned into faults.

You only have one code to work on. That is the 65 Intake cam shaft senor fault. Change the sensor with a BMW one. It will be expensive. Aftermarket sensor often fail and you will have to redo the job.

The plug for the sensor is under the inlet manifold and plugs into a electric box under there. I unplug the connector and tie a piece of string to the connector. Then remove the lead back to the sensor, pulling the string along. The string can then be tied to the new sensor's connector and help guide the lead back correctly to the electrical box.

To replace the sensor, you will need to remove the inlet VANOS solenoid. It takes a 32mm spanner. When you replace the solenoid, do not tighten it up hard. A snug tightness is all that is needed.

[josehcb]

Do not worry about the shadow codes. They are items that the DME is monitoring but have not yet turned into faults.

You only have one code to work on. That is the 65 Intake cam shaft senor fault. Change the sensor with a BMW one. It will be expensive. Aftermarket sensor often fail and you will have to redo the job.

The plug for the sensor is under the inlet manifold and plugs into a electric box under there. I unplug the connector and tie a piece of string to the connector. Then remove the lead back to the sensor, pulling the string along. The string can then be tied to the new sensor's connector and help guide the lead back correctly to the electrical box.

To replace the sensor, you will need to remove the inlet VANOS solenoid. It takes a 32mm spanner. When you replace the solenoid, do not tighten it up hard. A snug tightness is all that is needed.

Thanks, I will see now, which place is more cheaper. Could be OEM or only original? Because I recently had replace the camshaft exhaust sensor

[josehcb]

Do not worry about the shadow codes. They are items that the DME is monitoring but have not yet turned into faults.

You only have one code to work on. That is the 65 Intake cam shaft senor fault. Change the sensor with a BMW one. It will be expensive. Aftermarket sensor often fail and you will have to redo the job.

The plug for the sensor is under the inlet manifold and plugs into a electric box under there. I unplug the connector and tie a piece of string to the connector. Then remove the lead back to the sensor, pulling the string along. The string can then be tied to the new sensor's connector and help guide the lead back correctly to the electrical box.

To replace the sensor, you will need to remove the inlet VANOS solenoid. It takes a 32mm spanner. When you replace the solenoid, do not tighten it up hard. A snug tightness is all that is needed.

Thanks for you andMarcoZandrini
Finally the problem is fixed, It was "intake cam shaft sensor"