Had my rear hatch replaced, including the glass. The latch for the glass rattles going over bumps, and I have a red indicator on the dash telling me that the latch is not closed. The hatch itself locks securely.
Anyone know how to adjust the gap ? The bump stops are in place in the corners. It's in the middle where it's having problems.
Thank you ! I've been on those pages before. Guess my exhaustive search has not been that exhaustive.
Where did you source the replacement hatch? New?
Hey Rick, No, not new. Although for the amount of money I spent on the refurb, I may as well have bought a new one. I bought it locally for $400 a few summers ago, and even then, it needed some rust repairs before the guys would look at installing it.
CPHES, I don't seem to have access to those screws shown in R61 0308. Car is in the shop getting a brake flush, and of course, one of the calipers has issues. Sigh.
Meanwhile, I have my original hatch here at home. I need to do some basic tests to see if power is getting to the wiper motor and the latch button. The wiper motor/latch unit on the car now is the one that came with the hatch I bought, and of course, way back then we never tested it as it was not on the donor vehicle. It may be fine, and I'm suspecting some wires around the hatch hinges might be the issue. God help me.
Such Ridiculous Cost for a OE BMW E39T hatch... Dang Shame, because on top of that all of the ones I have seen for sale used are $500+ and still have the typical water channel rust zone spots or more! Unless you live in latvia lol, home of the E39 Parts Superstore!!! Geez lol
Last edited by rickadootrd; 08-01-2020 at 11:09 PM.
Did you see this? https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ilgate/BY7Y6yi
Thanks. I have version 3 of the glass hatch lock. R41 1406 shows an adjustment can be made with that large nut. I looked at that and thought it was all one solid piece. I'll play with it on the spare hatch here, and see if I can have an enlightened moment.
Obviously, the body shop that did the painting did not take the car for a test drive (why would anyone test drive "new paint" ?!), or they would have had some concerns about the rattling and told me that they TRIED to fix it. But that conversation never happened.
Think I figured this out. I have version 3 of the latch. On my spare (original hatch), i was able to loosen the nut holding the latch D pin. But I think once the trim is on the car, I won't need to make any adjustment, or at least if I need to, it will be very minimal.
Cars been at the shop this long weekend, so I'll take a closer look when I get it back.
Bookmarks