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Thread: HELPP!! Another No Start E36 😪

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    1994 325i

    HELPP!! Another No Start E36 😪

    Whats up all glad to see a lot of you are still active on here, Finished the previous M50 build but im back with a new pickup, but without further adieu... Just bought a 1992 E36 325 Sedan, 1 owner, Mint, Sat for years ( we know where this is going lol ) The b*tch doesnt start bros. Ive been working on it already know my way around an e36 successful big turbo top mount 325i cabrio built, but this thing has me stumped on THREE things! One of which is making the car not start. Bottom line is i need continuous crank but Im only getting 1 position crank right now unfortunately but moving forward...

    1. Already tore the whole car apart ( had to do starter manifold is off etc etc ) cause i bought a new battery turned key and nothing at all but a *click * so i said f*ck it its gotta be the alt or the starter hahahah boom neither of those two... but once i installed the starter Im NOW getting one position crank so fair enough to say the old starter or solenoid was bad ??
    Anyways thats the end of #1 replaced battery,starter and the Alt to no avail.

    2. Obviously we have another problem no power @ #18 as usual no EWS on this gal so i swap relays from my turbo e36, no dice... cool i notice Im getting no check engine light on turn key but i am getting signal so i rule Faulty DME there not sure how that went bad sitting but okay ( back story found out some critter chewed through the wires for the diag post by the passenger strut tower including the ground ) so i cut the diagnosis and rewired everything back up thats how i obtained the 1-position crank what i mean by that is when key is turned to run it cranks approx 1 position or 1 tooth on the crank... now typing this out it just dawned that the cam-ps or the crank-ps could be bad since i dont get that chhchhu- Chhu- Chchu-chchchu sound when i turn key i basically just get one chhh and thats it.. i feel like that rejection due to a sensor cause Ive got 12v at the coils didnt test with harness unplugged tho and they are grounded as well factory grounds.


    3. Fusible Link?, Battery size too small? I noticed smoke coming from the starter main ground I think after I performed some attempted starts once i got out the car i was able to catch it but nothing too serious in my opinion figured it’s just from me laying on the starter with no actual results but i felt it should be mentioned ( got a battery from my 240sx in there right now ) just to see if it will turn over before i buy the hefty one that could be the issue but i just donÂ’t see this being it, that would be ridiculous Ive turned key on battery power , battery + jump box , battery + live wire. I jumped #30->#87 and i can here the open flow circuit ima put gas in there next time to see for actual flow but it definitely is making noise when jumped but no fuel in tank if that matters been sitting for year just want continuous crank and power to the fuel pump and then ill worry about the minor imperfections and things. Im also a tech so i had access to all-data so i was able to print out a diagram of the relays, In depth fuse chart, starter/ battery/generator circuit and more but i dont exactly understand everything on the diagrams entirely as theres a lot of information and series and i would definitely rather bounce my knowledge of others before i just go probing away but i will post pictures when i get off work for anyone interested in helping. thank for you in advance to all !!! 😎
    Last edited by 325itdreams; 07-29-2020 at 01:15 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    9,098
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    1997 328i
    Good chance the ignition switch is bad. Realize the injectors are going to be gummed up , if it starts I recommend running injector cleaner over the next 3 tanks of gas. Otherwise you may have to blow out the fuel lines and manually clean the injectors.
    Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
    Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric93se View Post
    Good chance the ignition switch is bad. Realize the injectors are going to be gummed up , if it starts I recommend running injector cleaner over the next 3 tanks of gas. Otherwise you may have to blow out the fuel lines and manually clean the injectors.
    Copy that boss, I’ll get to testing the ignition switch that was my next step in all honestly... any advice on how i should go about testing the switch ? I do get voltage to the control at the starter so I’m assuming that lead is good so that’s one down but where else do they run exactly so i can probe with a test light

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    1997 328i
    You stating that you had a extremely brief crank makes me believe the contact in your ignition switch are at its end. Older e36's (M50) typically have the bad ignition switch problem.

    crank/cam sensors are not preventing you from cranking over.
    Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
    Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    NY
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    Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
    Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    804
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    1994 325i
    Alright I’m back after further diag i think that the DME is bad , I’m bumping this from 2020 but i lost motivation on the car and I’m back now so that will be my first buy as that was my most recent find before taking a break i noticed the fuel pump worked when i jumped terminals but didn’t come on through the key there were others reasons i just don’t remember right now i had also just replaced the starter which i stated above so I’ll be back shortly with an update after i replace the DME with about 413 RED, just read up top and the reason was because i don’t have any check engine light when turning the key over that an indication of the computer not being detected apparently don’t remember where i read it but yea, anyone feel free to chime i once again may this be the ultimate no start thread haha & somebody page Flyfish dammit tell him i need help lmao

    - - - Updated - - -


    ( EDIT : To address the guy above me that helped me out i appreciate it but it turns out it’s not the ignition switch let’s scrap what i said about a brief crank and just start over fresh after the DME swap, i swapped ignitions from my turbo e36 and nothing happened there so onto DME we go )

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2022
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    Bmw
    Did you ever figure out what was wrong ? I’m currently having a similar issue

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Motor was locked up lol stay tuned as I’m about to make another help I need to swap my engine post ��

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