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Thread: FRM problem? Random lights not working, NCS coding issues- Please help!

  1. #1
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    FRM problem? Random lights not working, NCS coding issues- Please help!

    Hey folks,

    Firstly sorry - this is going to be quite long winded but just want to give full context so i don't miss anything.

    I purchased a 2010 318d LCI E90 with a faulty FRM module. It had all the common faults when these brick themselves, no communication to the module, service car error on dash, no indicators, lights stuck on, windows not working etc etc. I sent it off for repair (confirmed as corrupted software), refitted it and my light switch was working again, comms restored... all good, or so i thought.

    My front windows still didn't work, and I apparently had loads of bulbs out (numerous bulb warnings). I had one low beam bulb not working, one high beam, one front indicator, both side repeaters, and one full tail light (left hand, or UK passenger side) out. I replaced bulbs and that made no difference. What is strange, is that when the FRM was toast and everything was defaulted on, both low beams and both taillights were working. If my knowledge of these is correct (and it may well not be!) this operates on a backup circuit in case of FRM issues, which leads me to believe it can't be a wiring issue or problem with individual units as otherwise even when controlled by a different terminal, they wouldn't have worked.

    The errors showing at the time were:
    9CBD
    9CBC
    9CB5
    9CDB
    9CDA
    9CAA
    9CAB

    I tried resetting the short circuit counter on tool32, which succeeded but did not help my issues. Oddly, the counter isn't going up despite having bulbs out and i am showing no INPA errors for bulb warnings.

    After replacing every fuse, and checking for split wires behind the boot lining and in the rubber duct between the tailgate and the chassis (none found) I thought perhaps the FRM was physically damaged, so purchased another with the same part number. I coded this with WinFKP and wrote my VIN, then used NCS to code the VO to the FRM.

    Unfortunately, my issues still remain and i am totally stumped.

    The errors i currently have are:

    9CAA - Terminal 39b connection faulty
    9CAB - terminal 15 is missing
    This is showing battery voltage as 11.3v (was fairly low at the time. Since charged) and sensor reading of 0v


    And 9CDA/9CDB Window lifter connection faulty

    This evening I thought i would check the production date on the FRM, just in case, It hadn't, by the looks of it, as it was set to #0910... however, NCS is recognising my FRM3 module as FRM2. When i hit process ECU on NFRM, under the jobname i am seeing "FRM2_E89.C08.A_PLD2PRX.IPO. FRM70.PRG.

    I suspect (and hope) this might be part of my issue. However, none of the research i've done has unfortunately helped. The most common issues seem to be modifying the VO with a new production date (mine is 0910, so no need) and updating daten files (mine are v61). I can't see anything else suggested.

    Anyone able to help me here? I have run out of how-to guides and troubleshooting to follow at this point and i am completely stumped.

    Thanks in advance
    Last edited by magsmagsmags; 07-26-2020 at 10:08 PM.

  2. #2
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    This sounds like the reason I would replace an FRM as opposed to having it "repaired". Sounds to me like you need a new FRM. Maybe it was corrupted or something.
    ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician

  3. #3
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    I've done that buddy - same issues. I will keep updating the thread so it helps someone else in future as this has taken me ages to get to, with a lot of help

    I got in touch with a local specialist who has very kindly been helping me diagnose this.

    We checked voltage at the FRM and fuseboard and noted that terminal 30 (supplies constant power, with ignition off) was OK, however there was no voltage being received at pin 12 (terminal 15) on X14261 (bottom FRM connector). This is meant to be a switched live. We bridged this to pin 34, reconnected the FRM and all was working. This will kill the battery if left however and is not a permanent solution, but enough to identify the FRM was not at fault.

    Next step is to continuity test the wires, if those are good, the fault is suspected to sit within the JBE, which i will replace next if the wires test OK

  4. #4
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    I've done that buddy - same issues. I will keep updating the thread so it helps someone else in future as this has taken me ages to get to, with a lot of help

    I got in touch with a local specialist who has very kindly been helping me diagnose this.

    We checked voltage at the FRM and fuseboard and noted that terminal 30 (supplies constant power, with ignition off) was OK, however there was no voltage being received at pin 12 (terminal 15) on X14261 (bottom FRM connector). This is meant to be a switched live. We bridged this to pin 34, reconnected the FRM and all was working. This will kill the battery if left however and is not a permanent solution, but enough to identify the FRM was not at fault.

    Next step is to continuity test the wires, if those are good, the fault is suspected to sit within the JBE, which i will replace next if the wires test OK

  5. #5
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    I would see about pulling up the wiring diagrams and find out what fuse supplies terminal 15. This should help point you in the right direction: www.newtis.info

    Next once that is done, and you have verified that the fuse is bad, of course replace it. But if the fuse is good, then you will need to trace the wire from the fuse panel to the FRM to see where the break is.

    Lastly if the fuse keeps blowing, there will be a short to ground, and you will have to trace the wires anyway to find the break.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dworthy View Post
    I would see about pulling up the wiring diagrams and find out what fuse supplies terminal 15. This should help point you in the right direction: www.newtis.info

    Next once that is done, and you have verified that the fuse is bad, of course replace it. But if the fuse is good, then you will need to trace the wire from the fuse panel to the FRM to see where the break is.

    Lastly if the fuse keeps blowing, there will be a short to ground, and you will have to trace the wires anyway to find the break.
    Already done this last night, but thank you - was the right next step!

    All test OK, also continuity tested the connections between JBE/FRM/CAS and checked fuse voltages. Suspected issue is the CAS module. Next step is to use ISTA to see if we can determine that.

  7. #7
    dworthy's Avatar
    dworthy is offline Wagon meister :) BMW Tech Expert
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    Sometimes continuity tests work on a wire that can be 75% cut, I like to do voltage drop tests, or a load test. Load tests can be conducted using a lamp, say if it's a 15 Amp draw, use a tail lamp to place the load. A 30 Amp or higher, a headlight bulb works great for that.
    Darin
    Current:
    16 220i Active Tourer Platinsilver MET (C08)/Dakota Black (PDSW), P7ACA, P7LDA, P7LHA, P9BDA, 6sp Manual - Wife's new toy!
    05 325it Electric Red(438)/Gray(N6TT) ZCW, ZSP 5sp Manual Back set cover, trunk mat, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield, and mud flaps! Mr. Wagon My new Winter car.
    05 M3 Imolarot II(405)/Gray(N5TT) ZCW, ZPP 6sp Manual C.F. Lip, CSL diffuser, SSK, Euro Infra-Rot front windshield and a trunk liner! Mr. Go_Fast Stored for the Winter
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    79 525 euro Green/Green RIP
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  8. #8
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    I've got a very similar issue, did you managed to get this fixed sorry for bringing up an old thread.

    Thank you

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    Quote Originally Posted by smurf786 View Post
    I've got a very similar issue, did you managed to get this fixed sorry for bringing up an old thread.

    Thank you
    Hey bud, i did yes - complete luck to be honest, with the help of specialist who kindly whatsapped me for some beer tokens while i did the actual physical work and he checked diagrams etc!

    If you want to PM me your number, i'll forward it all over via whatsapp if you like

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    Sorry mate I don't think my PM's are working... I can't PM you...

    Will try and get in contact with you...

  11. #11
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    MagsMagsMags,
    What the answer to the problem? I'd appreciate it if you post it so others can use it to fix their issues.

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    Quote Originally Posted by magsmagsmags View Post
    Hey bud, i did yes - complete luck to be honest, with the help of specialist who kindly whatsapped me for some beer tokens while i did the actual physical work and he checked diagrams etc!

    If you want to PM me your number, i'll forward it all over via whatsapp if you like
    Any chance you still have the information for the fix??

  13. #13
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    Hey can you get back to me as soon as possible I'm having the exact same issue to the T and would like to see how you got it solved?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Cant pm not sure whats going on but super curious so I can sell this car lol

    - - - Updated - - -

    Cant pm not sure whats going on but super curious so I can sell this car lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by magsmagsmags View Post
    This evening I thought i would check the production date on the FRM, just in case, It hadn't, by the looks of it, as it was set to #0910... however, NCS is recognising my FRM3 module as FRM2. When i hit process ECU on NFRM, under the jobname i am seeing "FRM2_E89.C08.A_PLD2PRX.IPO. FRM70.PRG.

    I suspect (and hope) this might be part of my issue. However, none of the research i've done has unfortunately helped. The most common issues seem to be modifying the VO with a new production date (mine is 0910, so no need) and updating daten files (mine are v61). I can't see anything else suggested.

    Anyone able to help me here? I have run out of how-to guides and troubleshooting to follow at this point and i am completely stumped.

    Thanks in advance
    I had a similar issue with my FRM last week or so. You need to find out what version that FRM box is. Realoem.com should tell you the actual version. Maybe the PO tried programming it and didn't program it correctly. A local indy reprogrammed my FRM (don't even ask me how much), but I still had the light symbol on the dash, which we know the FRM controls the lights, however the guy said he'll reset the counters just to be safe. I know there's a counter limit on the devices controlled by the FRM, which is 50. Once the limit reaches 50, the FRM cuts power to the item until the counter is reset. I thought the counters were reset when the FRM was reprogrammed. There's a possibility there still might be counters maxed at 50. You can use Tools32 to check the counter limit and reset the counters, but it sounds like the FRM was reprogrammed with the wrong version. You can get it reprogrammed to the correct version or buy a used FRM. Just make sure you have a trickle charger on that battery to maintain full battery while messing with the FRM. I didn't do that while trying to relearn the eccentric shaft motor, which caused voltage irregularities and battery drain, thus bricking my FRM.

  15. #15
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    @magsmagsmags I have the exact same issues. I can’t PM you but wanted to ask what you found to be the solution?

    - - - Updated - - -

    @magsmagsmags I have the exact same issues. I can’t PM you but wanted to ask what you found to be the solution?

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