engine problems

[tyromechanic]

My car heated up. I stopped and cooled it down.

After the incident, there was (still is) smoke coming from where the valve cover is, on the side where the spark plugs are.

I noticed the cooling fan clutch was not engaging. I replace it along with the thermostat.

I took the ride for the car and there was a light rattling sound coming from the engine, not persistent. I cruised all the way home.

The engine light came on an off intermittently and then the oil pressure light.

I have check the coolant and oil. The coolant does not have oil in it, and neither does the oil.

Here is the question: is there a way to test the oil pressure pump? If so, please share.

Do you know of a video one can see how it is changed?

Respectfully,
Terrestrial_ET

[moroza]

You can replace the oil pressure switch with the sender to an actual gauge, for testing purposes. Search for where it is on the M20 (probably the oilfilter housing).

[tyromechanic]

Morosa, i do know where the pump is. I looked it up. I am interested in a video where the pump is replaced. Can you explain the oil pressure testing a title bit more?

thanks for your help

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I got it. I think I know how to check the oil pressure.

[ross1]

Overheating, oil pressure warnings and the engine is rattling.
This is no time to get an education via internet. Bring the car to a trusted and competent mechanic. Your symptoms sound serious.

[tyromechanic]

I would like to work on my car if possible. I replaced the fan clutch and thermostat. The car runs like New until the temperature gauge reaches the middle of the Temperature gauge. In the past, the temperature gauge has been in the middle wit no issues. Now, the car runs like new until it reaches the middle of the temperature gauge. When it reaches this point the car gets very sluggish and begins to rattle. Any help is welcome.

[tyromechanic]

Overheating, oil pressure warnings and the engine is rattling.
This is no time to get an education via internet. Bring the car to a trusted and competent mechanic. Your symptoms sound serious.

I like to work on my car when I can. I did replace the fan clutch and remove the thermostat. The car is not heating up any longer. The cat starts right away and runs like new.

However, when the car warms up, normal temperature, not heating up, the car gets super sluggish and begins to rattle. Any help is welcome.

[moroza]

You can rent an oil pressure gauge from Autozone or Oreilly's (and possibly elsewhere) for free. Do that. Report back with numbers (bar/kPa or psi). While you're at it, they also have fuel pressure and compression testers.

[tyromechanic]

Here we go. Oil pressure, fuel pressure, and compression are fine.

The car starts right away and motor runs smoothly. The car runs and drives perfectly until it reaches running temperature. By this I mean when the temperature gauge reaches the center of the gauge. At this time, the car loses power and begins to rattle.

I spoke with a neighbor who has owned several bmws. He believes it could be a sensor, a timing related issue.

Any ideas?

Respectfully

[ross1]

Does the rattle occur only when under load?
Your neighbor may be thinking the noise is detonation/pre-ignition/spark knock. No knock sensors on the M20 so a vacuum leak would be the most likely culprit for this.
What kind of fuel are you burning? Does higher octane fuel change things any?
Perhaps time for a new thread title

[tyromechanic]

The answer to your first question is yes.

my neighbor thinks it has to do with timing.

I’m burning super.

what title do you recommend for the new thread?

[tyromechanic]

The car starts right away. At idle, no unusual sound.

the car runs, and accelerates great until........it warms up.

When the car reaches running temperature, (middle of the gauge), it begins to faintly rattle. The rattle gets louder and the car loses power. At this time, I have to stop the car and let it cool down.

Gas, oil, and compression all have been checked. Nothing wrong with these. The car is running on super gas.

A neighbor who has owned several BMWs and works on them believes there is nothing wrong with the motor. He has suggested that since the car runs well until it warms up that there might be a sensor(s) sending incorrect feed back.

Before all this started happening, the car heated up. The car blew the throttle body water housing gasket.

i replaced it along with the fan clutch as it was not working properly. I did remove the thermostat. I did not replace it.

Any thoughts ?

[shogun]

First of all install a new thermostat. The car will seem to run ok, but if the thermostat is removed, the car never be able to attain operating temperature and maintain it. The thermostat is an active component which constantly opens and closes attempting to maintain the optimum temperature for combustion.Pulling it out has the effect of denying the engine a constant and optimum operating/combustion temperature. This causes the DME, which uses temperature sensors to assess the operating temp, to adjust the fuel and ignition timing to align with the measured temperature which is now varying widely with conditions. The temp gauge sensor has no effect on the DME, the DME uses a separate temperatur sensor.
Test the coolant temperature switch.
Do a stomp test https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...e-pedal-faults

I merged your 2 threads now, same subject, engine problems

[ross1]

The answer to your first question is yes.

my neighbor thinks it has to do with timing.

I’m burning super.

what title do you recommend for the new thread?

Rattling under load is probably one of two things, incorrect ign timing (not likely as DME controlled) or a too lean fuel mix which first suggest vacuum leak(s).
Read a bit about causes of "detonation" for more.
Other possible causes are carbon build up on the pistons or incorrect spark plugs. Carbon build up is easily enough addressed with the "Italian tune up" or a treatment to remove deposits, water or chemicals.
Be careful if running this engine hard, detonation is a damaging condition. If you can run it at higher revs a while, say 3-4k which is speeding ticket range in most parts, without hearing the rattle you should clear it out.
IGNORE any information you might see about running at very high revs, its pointless and potentially damaging, especially given what sounds like a sick engine.
Oh, yeah, install the T stat as Shogun suggests.

[tyromechanic]

First of all install a new thermostat. The car will seem to run ok, but if the thermostat is removed, the car never be able to attain operating temperature and maintain it. The thermostat is an active component which constantly opens and closes attempting to maintain the optimum temperature for combustion.Pulling it out has the effect of denying the engine a constant and optimum operating/combustion temperature. This causes the DME, which uses temperature sensors to assess the operating temp, to adjust the fuel and ignition timing to align with the measured temperature which is now varying widely with conditions. The temp gauge sensor has no effect on the DME, the DME uses a separate temperatur sensor.
Test the coolant temperature switch.
Do a stomp test https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...e-pedal-faults

I merged your 2 threads now, same subject, engine problems

Thank you for your help. I will install a new thermostat. After this, I will follow the advice from ross1. I will take one step at the time. Thank you for your time.

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First of all install a new thermostat. The car will seem to run ok, but if the thermostat is removed, the car never be able to attain operating temperature and maintain it. The thermostat is an active component which constantly opens and closes attempting to maintain the optimum temperature for combustion.Pulling it out has the effect of denying the engine a constant and optimum operating/combustion temperature. This causes the DME, which uses temperature sensors to assess the operating temp, to adjust the fuel and ignition timing to align with the measured temperature which is now varying widely with conditions. The temp gauge sensor has no effect on the DME, the DME uses a separate temperatur sensor.
Test the coolant temperature switch.
Do a stomp test https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...e-pedal-faults

I merged your 2 threads now, same subject, engine problems

Thank you for your help. I will install a new thermostat. After this, I will follow the advice from ross1. I will take one step at the time. Thank you for your time.

[tyromechanic]

I have purchased the thermostat and will be replaced today! I did check the pedal "thingy" and it returned code 1224, the temperature intake sensor.

I have a question, is the temperature intake sensor the same as the coolant temperature sensor.

First of all install a new thermostat. The car will seem to run ok, but if the thermostat is removed, the car never be able to attain operating temperature and maintain it. The thermostat is an active component which constantly opens and closes attempting to maintain the optimum temperature for combustion.Pulling it out has the effect of denying the engine a constant and optimum operating/combustion temperature. This causes the DME, which uses temperature sensors to assess the operating temp, to adjust the fuel and ignition timing to align with the measured temperature which is now varying widely with conditions. The temp gauge sensor has no effect on the DME, the DME uses a separate temperatur sensor.
Test the coolant temperature switch.
Do a stomp test https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...e-pedal-faults

I merged your 2 threads now, same subject, engine problems

[tyromechanic]

I have purchased the thermostat and will be replaced today! I did check the pedal "thingy" and it returned code 1224, the temperature intake sensor.

I have a question, is the temperature intake sensor the same as the coolant temperature sensor.

First of all install a new thermostat. The car will seem to run ok, but if the thermostat is removed, the car never be able to attain operating temperature and maintain it. The thermostat is an active component which constantly opens and closes attempting to maintain the optimum temperature for combustion.Pulling it out has the effect of denying the engine a constant and optimum operating/combustion temperature. This causes the DME, which uses temperature sensors to assess the operating temp, to adjust the fuel and ignition timing to align with the measured temperature which is now varying widely with conditions. The temp gauge sensor has no effect on the DME, the DME uses a separate temperatur sensor.
Test the coolant temperature switch.
Do a stomp test https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...e-pedal-faults

I merged your 2 threads now, same subject, engine problems

[moroza]

I have a question, is the temperature intake sensor the same as the coolant temperature sensor.

No, there's one for the gauge and another for the engine computer.

[shogun]

and these 2 sensors are different, do NOT mix them up. The one for the DME us much more accurate.
It is not clear to me which engine you have, M20 or M50. Use your VIN and search here for the correct p/n http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog

That the cluster temperature indicator stays in the middle on your car, does not mean it is always the same temperature.
Temperature indication on the BMW is not linear, they call it 'tableau', basically the indicatior at 12 o'clock can mean everything between roughly 75-95 degree Celsius. Everything in between 75-95 is just 12 o'clock. Plus/ minus 1-2 mm to the right or left (deviation caused by the parts installed).
The analog signal is processed in the instrument cluster and compared with data in the coding plug. A corresponding signal is sent to the instrument. Five temperature support values are stored in the coding plug. Exceeding the temperature limit stored in the coding plug will additionally send corresponding warning information to the check control and display it there.
That is written and shown here on page 4 of the instrument cluster check control training reference book http://www.e38.org/e32/BMW_pdfs/INST_info.pdf

[ross1]

1990 in USA is an M20

[shogun]

thanks, then we have for the M20
12 Engine coolant temp sensor 12621710535 2-POL M14x1.5
14 Temperature sensor 13621709966 M12X1,5

http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E3...ostat_housing/
check in your Bentley repair manual for the E34 how to test them

[tyromechanic]

I’m getting the temperature sensor tomorrow. I went to the auto parts store and ask for an air intake temperature sensor and they looked at as if I were crazy. I understand now. It is also called temperature sensor and it is located on the thermostat housing. I have already replaced the coolant temperature sensor. I’ll take care of the other one tomorrow.

Thanks a lot for your time!

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Right on!

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I used my Peake Obed and the gas pedal “thingy”. Both of them return codes for the temperature sensor.