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Figured I’d ask here before gambling on which one I’d use, but I’m going to be welding onto the unibody a few times with a TIG torch. Which filler rod has been used successfully in the past by anyone here? I’ll be welding the differential mount to be dual eared, subframe shortening, and will probably throw in transmission tunnel work while I’m at it.
Thanks!
All other advice is welcome on welding on the body. I have a Miller Synchrowave, so I’m not really limited by the machine so much as my 50A breaker
Last edited by Somjuan; 07-17-2020 at 05:10 PM.
-John
I use mostly ER70S for steel and 4043 for aluminum for most stuff. But you can refer to the manufacture to see what they recommend.
I'm assuming that you're new to tig welding so some other pointers I can give is gas flow should be ruffly double the cup size (size 7 cup set gas to 14). Tungsten should stick out close to the same as the opening of the cup so it stays shielded with gas.
Very new. I’ve done it in the past, but only a few times when I had access to the school machine shop. I like it a lot more than MIG. I’m also very open to tips on what torch to get, I was looking at a water cooled setup and one of the buttons. As easy as the foot pedal is, I really like the thumb setup. I’ve saved up money for the stuff, so price is less of a problem, I just want good quality equipment that’ll last me.
-John
Get some scrap metal same type you'll be welding and practice , this helps, also buy name brand sticks, I was doing some Mig Welding steel with a cheaper brand and then bought some Lincoln , the difference was night and day after that i bought some Lincoln Aluminum flux wire in case I need to repair some aluminum. Tig welding has it advantages and of course the cost rises, personally I like Arc, Mig , ect. each has it uses. Shielding Gases vary according to the job when not using flux wire although both has been used with very good results.....
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 07-17-2020 at 08:14 PM.
Definitely practice on scrap metal the same thickness as the material you plan to weld. I personally used MIG on my e21, any custom brackets that I made out of the car I TIG welded.
Make sure the metal is clean
I'm the total opposite I love to tig weld anything and everything I can as it looks so much better and stronger. But tig take much more time and as said above if the metal is not clean your going to have a hard time. Clean everything and then clean it again especially the filler rod. Steel is much easier than aluminum but you will get it. Move steady and keep the torch angled correctly.
Tig has much better heat control and a much smaller heat affected zone. Get some practice and you can make it look so much better than the robot applied toothpaste from the factory. Welding the steel is just a matter of pushing the puddle and dabbing the rod into it. Aluminum is very reliant on the quality of the base metal the quality of the cover gas and how well you clean the base metal. If you are welding in your garage try to do it with the garage door closed to avoid any breeze that will affect your gas coverage.
shermanmartinez at hotmail dot com
Tig is like gas welding to me. You can control the amount of fill material, keeping the weld smaller.
More of melting the two pieces together and filling as needed.
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Er70s2 for most mild steel
I use 316L for stainless exhaust tubing and manifolds.
Er80s2 for some high strenght tubing i.e. DOCOL
4043 for most aluminum
Silicon Bronze for brazing cast iron but you can also use something with high nickel content.
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i really like using er312 rods for steel. flows better than er70s, and looks really sharp if you leave it raw
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