Z3 / make adjustable bridge ribbed plates or eccentric screws?

[joseinpe]

Hello partners. I have had z sleeping all this time under circumstances. I have decided to get my hands on it, since I was restoring it in its day, all the flaws and a rear geometry problem, since I had a mishap with a curb. I am involved in work and I am going to change the rear bridge and already inserted, make it adjustable, since the arms were changed but these were not the problem. The dilemma is as follows: fluted plates that give more play in the fit and avoid having surprises in falling short of the game; The other, eccentric screws, the advantage that I think they have, is the comfort when it comes to regulating, they do not need to remove wheels and lift. On the other hand, the ribbed plates would be more work to regulate. I speak a little with knowledge of hypotheses, that's why I expose it, so that you correct me if I am not correct.


I take this opportunity to put in the same thread the search for a bar of turrets valid for the "pre". That does not interfere with the asc. Something that does not need further modifications. I can't find anything. Greetings to all

[BimmerBreaker]

Ribbed or posi-lock style adjusters are better

Eccentric bolts are well known for loosening and migrating, affecting the alignment

[joseinpe]

Ribbed or posi-lock style adjusters are better

Eccentric bolts are well known for loosening and migrating, affecting the alignment

recommends a particular kit. Could this be valid ?.

https://www.ebay.es/itm/112316568501

the way to regulate these plates step by step: 1- lift 2- remove wheels 3 - loosen plate screws and give desired adjustment. Any recommendation when regulating? Thank you


Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

[joseinpe]

Ribbed or posi-lock style adjusters are better

Eccentric bolts are well known for loosening and migrating, affecting the alignment

the play of the ribbed plates is greater, but as a drawback they are more cumbersome to align than eccentric screws. recommends some kit. is this suitable?

https://www.ebay.es/itm/112316568501

Thank you

[PbFut]

I used the ribbed style. It works good but there are a couple points to make sure to pay attention to.
The side not welded will rotate when you are tightening the bolts down. It is easy to get it one or two ribs off. That completely voids the advantage of the ribbed design and allows things to slip pretty easy. Make sure the ribs are engaged correctly as you tighten things down. Torquing the bots down tight enough can be a challenge. I found that a drop or two of Loctite green (penetrating thread lock) was a excellent help in avoiding the bolt from loosening. If a bolt loosens, crazy things happen very fast. I can tell you this from experience. Good luck with your project.

[joseinpe]

Partner. I think I'll opt for eccentric screws taking initial values from the alignment dimensions. He has told me some specialists in adjustable bridges; Alignment with fluted plates is very complex and it is not possible to align with dead weight, which eccentrics if it is comfortable to align. My doubt was the little game that has the eccentric screws with respect grated. He has also told me that the clamping is safer in eccentrics and the most effective and easy alignment, being able to do it with the dead weight of the car (which is the right way that it has to be done)


Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

[PbFut]

Just to be clear, he is mistaken relative to adjusting while the weight is still on the suspension. There is no issue loosening, positioning the pivot point location to desired spec, and tightening down while car is in place on the alignment rack.

[BimmerBreaker]

I like how you asked for what we recommended, we gave thoughtful responses explaining why the ribbed style is better, then you ignored us and opted for eccentric bushings anyways lol

[joseinpe]

I like how you asked for what we recommended, we gave thoughtful responses explaining why the ribbed style is better, then you ignored us and opted for eccentric bushings anyways lol

I haven't ignored anyone. I haven't purchased any kit yet. I only advise myself not to bring future surprises in line-ups and that I do not have much difficulty in aligning. I draw on the story of a professional who makes adjustable bridges. I thought the fluted plates can't regulate with the dead weight and should be done by raising the wheel. Would anyone know of some explanatory video or steps to follow to regulate with fluted plates?.


Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

[joseinpe]

I like how you asked for what we recommended, we gave thoughtful responses explaining why the ribbed style is better, then you ignored us and opted for eccentric bushings anyways lol

I haven't ignored anyone. I haven't bought any kit yet. I'm just advising you not to bring future surprises in the lineups and not to have much difficulty aligning. I draw on the story of a professional who makes adjustable bridges. I thought the fluted plates can't regulate with dead weight and should be done by lifting the wheel. Would anyone know of any explanatory video or steps to follow to regulate with fluted plates?


Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

[joseinpe]

I'll listen to you. I'll take my chances with striatum. I hope I don't have any problems with aligned. Someone would know where I can get a turret re-effort for the z3 pre 2.8 that doesn't need modifications by the blissful "asc". Thank you partners.


Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

[Randy Forbes]

I like how you asked for what we recommended, we gave thoughtful responses explaining why the ribbed style is better, then you ignored us and opted for eccentric bushings anyways lol

And I didn't even weigh in; my preference is for the eccentric type.

You CANNOT put the serrated type on the inboard mounts without modifying them, or you cut into the fuel tank. They are more trouble to assemble (and I'm only doing a preliminary alignment, just enough to get it to the closest dependable shop, which is 28 mi away).

If you're having the eccentrics come loose, then start building up some strength in those arms and upper body.

Pay attention too, to Dan's tip about the wicking Stud & Bearing Mount Loctite; I apply it to the RTA bolts after alignment, and ALWAYS on people's upper strut studs (I swear, EVERY car that I see, they're loose__check yours now...).

[PbFut]

You CANNOT put the serrated type on the inboard mounts without modifying them, or you cut into the fuel tank.

+1.
I forgot about that. Luckily I test fitted the ones I had and realized they needed a bit of trimming prior to install. It would be a real bitch to have to correct after it's been welded in.
Both styles are workable. As for adjusting with the weight still on the suspension. You simply use a tool to pry the point you are adjusting, then snug down the bolt being careful the one side stays inline so the ribs correctly engage.
I've not used the eccentric style and can't comment as to the comparison.
(added) one more point...The eccentric allow for infinite adjustment, vs just the number of ribs. So you could find the perfect set between ribs. Though it is a very tiny percent of a degree difference in final set.

[joseinpe]

You CANNOT put the serrated type on the inboard mounts without modifying them, or you cut into the fuel tank. They are more trouble to assemble (and I'm only doing a preliminary alignment, just enough to get it to the closest dependable shop, which is 28 mi away).


I don't quite understand what you mean. How would I have to modify the fuel tank by putting grated?


Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

[solimans]

ALWAYS on people's upper strut studs (I swear, EVERY car that I see, they're loose__check yours now...).

That’s the three nuts on top the front strut tower?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PbFut]

I don't quite understand what you mean. How would I have to modify the fuel tank by putting grated?


Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk

The tab you weld in place is longer than the tab on the bushing side. On the inboard position, the one used to adjust camber, most kits are just a bit too long and will hit the fuel tank upon reinstalling the subframe. So typically, the installer needs to shorten the tab before welding in place. It is easy to check if the subframe is still in place. Just set the tab in position and verify if it hits the tank or not. You do not modify the fuel tank.

Randy probably has a picture. I would go out and take a shot but the Trailblazer is on the rack right now.

[Randy Forbes]

On cue...









Whole job: http://spcarsplus.com/piwigo/index.php?/category/98

[caglar]

Just saw this version of the trailing arm but probably more suited for track than anything


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk