I don’t know but there may be some version of a bulkhead fitting that comes with a cap that has a wire hole or sleeve. Not sure how necessary it is to seal but if I do it I would try to find something for the positive side.
Its very necessary - the fuel tank becomes pressurized with just several degrees of ambient temperature change. I had done something similar for my E34 turbo setup with the AN return lines and had to go through several revisions. Not saying his solution doesn't work but, it's a pain. He's at least using a bolt/stud for the connection - don't do a wire hole/sleeve as the fuel will wick up through the stranded wire.
I meant a cap to cover the top of the bolt since it is an exposed power connection. I have no worries about sealing the through bolt or a bulkhead fitting on the top of the tank. I agree that just passing wires through holes could cause issues, which is why the factory used metal pass throughs and attached the wiring to those. Chikinhed has specified some type of aircraft sealant before that he has used in the tank.
Last edited by pbonsalb; 09-11-2020 at 05:53 PM.
Gotcha yeah its a PITA. The E30 is a little more annoying because it's metal and much smaller.
got the fuel filter in this weekend. used what someguy recommends; a ford mustang filter. fits great in the OE fuel filter bracket. Here is a quote by someguy that I stole from one of my old threads:
"You need a paper element filter. The stainless mesh filters are only good as a prefilter. They don't catch anything and will clog up the filter in the injectors. see test here
http://help.injectordynamics.com/sup...tem-filtration
Here is an ecconomical E85 filter solution. This filter is for a 2005-2017 ford mustang
https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-C.../dp/B000C9UJL4
these quick connect fittings will adapt to a 3/8 hose
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-08.../dp/B000E323JO
these will adapt to a 5/16 hose
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-08...ectors+800-085
these will adapt to a 6an
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Z152-6AN-Fue...JTkhAx&vxp=mtr
If you need a filter for big power, I use this filter housing from allstar
https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL40...ar+fuel+filter
with this filter element from wix. It is 7 micron rated and approved for ethanol. They are availible locally at any napa store
http://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/24004.html"
We are currently trying to fix a bad idle before we take the car in for exhaust. The revs bounce around a lot and the motor dies consistently. Going to boost leak test it before asking Zack if it's maybe something he can fix in the tune. Anyone feel free to chime in on this if you have any advice for us, thanks!
Good timing for me — I was just shopping fuel filters for my 80lb injector pump gas turbo. Been using 5/16 line but will be converting to 3/8 and -6AN. Don’t really need to for the 750 rwhp I might make, but I’d like to get away from hose clamps and rubber line.
Cool build, do love a compact.
For the idle, might be worth checking the idle control valve as well, as they can get sticky and cause the idle to hunt. If you pop it off and shake it and see if you can hear it moving, if not give it a clean until it moves freely and see if that helps.
thanks! we love the compacts too, more fun to drive than any of our previous e30/36/46.
I checked the ICV when we had the manifold off and it was moving around freely like it should. It is the original unit though with 130k miles or so. We added three 3/16 barb npt fittings for vac/boost connections on the intake manifold, we used something similar to the rallyroad ICV connector fitting for under the intake and replaced all the gaskets on the intake as well. T-bolt clamps everywhere except the ICV, air diverter valve and the filter for the intake, which all have OE-style clamps. Fuel system is sorted, I double checked MAF orientation and the seal for the MAF sensor, spark plugs replaced with NGK 4091 and gapped at .025(per 22rpd instructions), o2 sensors have less than 10k miles and we even chopped off the z3 muffler in case it was choking the exhaust too much. getting codes for both o2 sensor fuel trims. car started acting up right after initial install of SC, injectors and tune.
Are you over running your stock regulator with the flow from the big pump? With even a 255, it will over pressure by 5-10 psi. That goes away as you start using more fuel, above idle speed and idle load. Many of us changed to an aftermarket FPR and bypassed the stock one. Leave the harness connected to the stock one and you won’t get a CEL.
Could your bypass valve be interfering with your hfm under some conditions? Is the idle issue only after deceleration from boost or could it be an idle after driving at low rpm and load?
thank you for this info!! We are still using the OE regulator, will change that out for sure.
Idle is weird all of the time so not sure if the bypass could be interfering. We used an AN fitting in the intake tube post maf for the bypass. Inner diameter is only 11/16 IIRC. Could this be a problem?
That diameter would not be a problem at idle. The entry to the baffled chamber is also small. Under boost, additional venting would be ideal.
Many of us run 13109. The 13129 is not really much more compact when you consider all dimensions.
I have not done the math for E85. You would find out if you tried it since your base pressure would go up if the return line was too small. There would be no issue when making the 600 because you would be using a lot of fuel and returning less. The issue, if any, would show up at idle and lower load. I am about do redo my stock size lines in AN6 and 3/8 stainless for my pump gas use in the mid 700 rwhp range. Stock size works, but I’d like to do a fancier plumbing job and figure I might as well go one step larger.
Last edited by pbonsalb; 09-30-2020 at 04:59 PM.
My goal is 700 whp range too i'll look into running 8an feed and 6an return to my stock hardline using AN adapter (currently using 6AN adapter) to stock lines. Really just want the engine bay to have AN lines rn. Fully convert the body lines once everything is sorted out after the dyno.
Adjustable FPR fixed our bad idle! Thanks pbonsalb! I was able to get it to fit in the original location, still fits in the protective cover too. SAE30R14 for the hoses
set the fuel pressure for 51 psi with no vacuum line hooked up. we haven't boost leak tested yet, maybe next weekend.
swapping out a bad z3 rack for a good zhp e46 rack
a little bit of a pain mounting a front sway bar with our particular suspension set up. not only do the lower control arms not have any provisions for a sway bar end link, but we also enjoy drifting and the OE strut mounted link binds at big steering angle. mounting the sway bar on the strut is more effective vs. the lower control arm so we make our own custom mounts and end links that can handle the abuse and can be mounted up on the strut.
hey guys, need some help again. car is running rich at idle(watching fuel trims with a scanner) and rich at part throttle and WOT. leans out big time under no load(car sitting still) and 2k rpm. we've boost leak tested several times now and can't find any leaks at 15 psi while spraying soapy water everywhere. anyone have any ideas?
who do you guys use for tuning? I just want to know all of our options. Really don't want to change tuners again, but unfortunately it's just not working out. we've already tried RK tunes and 22rpd, who else is out there?? really wish we could find someone local to tune it for us. (turboJoe won't tune e36 dme)
Talk to Tom at Alternative Performance Engineering. He's teamed up his Flex-Fuel business with Tuning by Dardan. They are down in San Diego. Tom has a Turbo Z3M that I think they are up to 750whp or more on now... Tom is also a member here, I'll fwd him this post.
https://www.instagram.com/apeflexfuel/
https://www.instagram.com/dardantuned/
Feel out Dardan for yourself though. I'm not endorsing him and I have limited experience with his abilities.
Apparently his coupe makes 1000hp+ and has one of the fastest 60-130 times on boosted e36 world. Also no endorsement, but that is pretty cool.
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