Member
I'm about to pick up a 2001 525i Touring with 155,000 miles and I'm excited to delve into some DIY projects on the car so I'm making a project list divided into three categories (high/medium/low priority). I'd love your feedback on my plan. What should I add to my list? What should I reprioritize?
The current owner has recently (within the last year) replaced: plugs and wires, brake pads and rotors, motor mounts, valve cover and gasket, front shocks, battery and alternator, fan and clutch, fan cover, air and cabin filters, windshield cowl, gasket, and hardware.
HIGH PRIORITY (week one)
-new tires
-diagnose DSC light which is currently always on (ordered Foxwell NT510 elite tool)
-liftgate and rear glass struts
-disa valve rebuild (don't know if/when it has been addressed on this car. ordered GAS rebuild kit)
MEDIUM PRIORITY (later this month)
-oil change
-differential oil change
-vanos rebuild
-brake flush
-fuel filter
-drive belts/tensioners/pulley kit
-oil filter housing gasket (will check for leaks first--or should I just do it prophylactically?)
-PCV valve
-coolant overhaul: flush, water pump, expansion tank, upper and lower radiator hoses, thermostat (should I also prophylactically replace the radiator? any other coolant pieces to replace?)
LOW PRIORITY (later this year)
-auto transmission fluid/filter change
-power steering flush
-O2 sensors (4)
Let me know what you think! Thanks!
Member
Congrats - location says you are NY metro? Where is the car from. E39 wagons have 1 weak spot. The tailgate rusts...... I have a 99 that lived in Boston - it did 197k ( from 1999 to when I got it, in 2012 ). The tailgate hinge pins rotted out. When it snapped, ( the left hinge pin snapped ), it was a pain to close.
Member
Thanks! Based on the Carfax, The car has spent most of its life until now in NJ and Kentucky. I’ll be sure to check out the tailgate hinges when I pick it up later this week.
I’m located in Manhattan but also spend some time in Long Island.
Great southern trendkill
Yes replace the radiator. Buy oem. Spectra premium lasted almost 100k miles in 5 years but its always a gamble not buying oem. Behr should be oem
Last edited by Sleepyhead97; 07-05-2020 at 10:42 PM.
Member
Not a bad list...but it's a lot of work in the next 5 months...
I would not change the oil filter housing gasket unless it is leaking - it probably is.
I would also replace:
- the o-ring on the power steering reservoir cap
- the sheathing on the wiring that runs in between the PS pump reservoir and the oil filter cap if missing
- coolant pipes underneath the intake manifold If they have not been done
- CCV (you mention PCV valve which I think is same)
I would also snake a piece of hedge trimmer line down the sunroof drains (unless it is a slick top) to clear them (do not use compressed air) and I would look for an opportunity to take off the door cards to check to make sure the vapor barriers are intact and still sealed with Butyl - particularly at the bottom. Spray some silcone spray in the window glides.
check the big plastic hose leading to the alternator duct. Is it clogged with leaves?
Is the oil pan gasket leaking?
Jbird
The e39 m5 radiator fits perfectly and you get a thicker core, good easy upgrade if your going to replace the pcv stuff pull the intake manifold and replace the plastic water pipes, and do the oil filter housing gasket and vanos oil hose
Member
Thanks for the replies and feedback. I’ll definitely incorporate these ideas into my list. And keep ‘em coming!
Seems like a lot of these projects should be combined into one bigger overhaul: oil filter housing, PCV, cooling system, and drive belts all make sense to do together.
@jclausen: Would this be the radiator I should buy to do the upgrade you mentioned? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-mahle_be...111436062~hla/
Member
Also - at some point, you will want to examine the rear suspension subframe bushings. They started as fluid filled - after all these years, most are shot. There is a really long thread on them.
Member
Talking about suspension, you may want to check and/or replace the front suspension parts first : upper (thrust) and lower control arms, sway bar bushings, tie-rods, links, struts, engine mounts...etc...
These are more important for a smooth drive, and more prone for an earlier retirement, than the rear suspension parts.
Member
wow, never heard this before and have owned many e39s. Can anyone else verify this fitment?Originally Posted by jclausen
Member
Email this man for his Old-fashioned (?) maintenance schedule: Mike Miller - Roundel (mikemillerroundelmag@drivewheels.hush.com)
Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.
Dismembered
I had a Behr Hella M5 radiator in my ‘01 540, fits fine. Sold the 540 last week, i now only have two E39’s left
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
Member
Will it work with an auto 540? Anything extra out of the ordinary you have to do to make it work?I had a Behr Hella M5 radiator in my ‘01 540, fits fine. Sold the 540 last week, i now only have two E39’s left
Dismembered
Aside from the extra core, its the same. All you have to do is pull the drain plug. Its keyed, it pulls out when in the drain position. Then the auto versions hose coupler goes into the drain hole, twist and lock. Change out the old hose, it was like $24 for an oem BMW version from FCP, just checked, $29 part number 11531711385.
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
Member
Just to verify... it will fit 6 cylinder e39's?
Dismembered
I never tried on my i6 cars, my 525 wagon has the stock BMW radiator in it, and my 528 wagon has an aluminum Mishimoto in it.
Well wait a minute..... Ok, I now recall that both i6 and V8’s used the same radiators, checked FCP, the radiators are all the same between i6 and V8, my memory is still semi intact! It’ll work just fine.
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
Member
Although the Foxwell scanner is okay, you really need BMW-specific software to troubleshoot these cars. BMW Scanner 1.4 is a decent start, but the full BMW Standard Tools set up is king.
Need a DME or EGS update?
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1081716
Coding 530i after AT->MT Swap
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ter-AT-MT-Swap
Member
Quick update--picked up the car on Thursday and drove it from Maryland up to Long Island. Really pleased with how it drives!
This weekend I flushed my brake fluid, replaced the fuel pump, differential oil, the struts for the lift gate and glass, and rebuilt the DISA valve using the GAS kit and the extremely detailed instruction on their website. My DISA valve pin was sticking about 1/3 of the way out of the housing when I removed the OEM unit from my car, but the flap and vacuum were functioning normally. Glad I caught that pin!
I don't hear any ticking on startup and the car has great power, so I'm reconsidering the VANOS rebuild I had on my list. Does anyone know of any other way of diagnosing the problem? Or should I just leave it be and just drive?
I also silicone sprayed the window guides, cleaned and lubed my sunroof rails, and used a pry bar to check around the front suspension. I couldn't find any play in any of the ball joints or tie rods, but I'm not sure if I was really doing the right stuff/prying hard enough under there--didnt want to damage any boots. I watched a couple videos on YouTube about it. Maybe everything is just ok? I'd be kind of surprised. There aren't any clunks or pops coming from the front end. The rear end does seem to handle pump and potholes kinda rough, though.
I read the codes using the Foxwell scanner and was able to reset the DSC warning light. Of course it came back on, then went off, then came back on. It's off again now, but I'm adding to my list a plan to pull the Steering Angle Sensor and clean/inspect the little metal tabs. Low priority, but dang that light is annoying when it pops back on!
Next weekend I'm going to tackle the big project--oil filter housing gasket, PCV, full coolant system overhaul, drive belts and tensioners, power steering overhaul (the outside of the PS fluid chamber and the hoses are the only dirty/gunky parts of an otherwise spotless engine bay, so I'm replacing everything)--these all seem to make sense to do at the same time. Does anyone have a favorite DIY for pulling the intake manifold?
Member
I'm making an order of operations for my project this weekend. I'm going to replace the cooling system, replace drive belts/tensioners/water pump/thermostat, replace power sheering reservoir and hoses, replace oil filter housing gasket, the rear cap on my alternator (it's broken), and the PCV system and coolant pipes under the intake.
Here's what I'm thinking makes the most sense as far as order of disassembly, but let me know if there would be a faster/easier order:
1. Drain oil and coolant
2. Remove fan and fan shroud
3. remove radiator, coolant hoses, and thermostat
4. Remove drive belts, tensioners, and water pump
5. Drain power steering ATF, remove power steering reservoir and hoses
6. Remove oil filter housing
7. Remove intake
8. Remove PCV
9. Remove coolant pipes
10. Remove alternator cap
Replacement would be the reverse of removal.
Thoughts? Can I tackle all of this in two full days of wrenching?
Member
That's an extremely full weekend...I think it will be tough to do all that in two days.
If you do want to do all this, I would remove intake As #3 or #4 in your steps....You will have much better access with it off.
When you take the intake off, leave fuel injectors and fuel rail attached to intake. Just carefully pry off each injector elec connection retaining clip with a pick tool. - 50's kid has a great video on this.
I suggest you do all this together - because access is so good with intake off - but give yourself 4 days, and be happy if you finish in 3.
Member
^^^ What he said...
Current stable:
2002 525i (Daily Driver)
1994 SN95 Mustang 'Vert (The Bumblebee)
2001 325i Convertible (Beach cruiser project)
Member
Thanks for the feedback guys. I thought it might be a bit ambitious. I've freed up my Friday to work on this and if the car needs to sit until next weekend to finish up, so be it.
Would having the car on ramps be ok for this or would stands be better?
Member
I doubt the car would care.
Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319.
Member
Ramps if you can. they are safer. an e39 on sketchy stands, or not well placed stands is a time bomb. I had my wagon on stands in my driveway, and my kid backed into it. - It stayed up, but that was a gut wrenching 2 seconds. Also, you will find that lifting the front high, will cause the tailpipe to hit the ground. If you have the Airbag rear springs, be careful for prolonged air time, as they settle. Otherwise, the car does not care.
Member
Finished! That was fun. It took me 14 hours in total over two days. I used a battery powered ratchet for disassembly and reassembly (and then I torqued with a torque wrench), which sped things up considerably. The hardest parts for me were picking the little electrical connector clips off the fuel injectors and getting the new return hose from the PCV seated on the dipstick tube (I used silicone spray, which made pushing the tube down onto the dipstick return tube a slippery mess).
After reconnecting the battery, the car started easily and drives great.
The car is sleeping with a big piece of cardboard under it tonight so I can check for leaks tomorrow morning. Fingers crossed!
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks