20 year old kid seeing if a clean, high milage bmw e36 323i is worth it?

[Sieffy]

I found a 1998 BMW 323is for sale for 2000, it is in good shape and has high mileage at 148k. Would it be worth it as my first car to work on and upgrade or is the upgrade path limited on the 323is? It's also a 98 so it doesn't have the nikasil problem and he has no rotors and brake pads included. The clear coat is peeling but I could fix that myself for not too much.

[flyfishvt]

Non of the US e36s got the nikasil engines

[et89]

depends on what you want. I would always say "yes!" to an e36 with a straight six.
The M52 is a great engine, and other than that it will leak oil like a MF, the engines are very reliable.
however, everything else about that car will break, fall of or deminish over time. if you don't mind tackling these things (you need time+a little bit of money) than go for it. they are great cars!

don't worry about your skill. almost everything about these cars can be found on youtube and other tutorials, you will just need a "can-do" mentality.

[Eric93se]

Try for $1800. Do a compression test, read how to do it properly. The cooling system has to be rock solid, if you ever spring a leak never limp it home you will warp the head. Carry the 800 number for AAA and get a membership right there on the side of the road.

[dhcg86]

Get the AAA membership before you get the car.

I just got a 97 328i- it seemed fine when I got it even though I over paid. I knew it needed a new thermostat , but dude promised to fix the thermostat after I got it. (Don’t make that agreement... people seem to always be busy)

so far I’ve had to replace the suspension, front tie rods, front wheel bearings, replaced thermostat /water pump/radiator , spark plugs , VCG. I love making the car stronger and fixing problems before they arrive but man this shit is expensive!

just plan ahead and make sure you always have an extra $1000 ready to spend on repairs. BMWs aren’t cheap but they are worth it.

[gc325is]

The price does not matter as much as the history.

So When were the suspension, front tie rods, front wheel bearings, thermostat /water pump/radiator , spark plugs , VCG done last. Now the big question when the time is up , who will do them? Do you have the money to cover it?. Replace could be $1000 while repair by you can be $500 the rest of the items down the list $500 Vs $100 $300 vs $150 $600 vs $250 $140 Vs $40 $120 Vs $30 Possible total cost $2660 Vs $920 or more. This is not the full list, brakes, fuel pump, VANOS alternator etc...

I would pay more for a car with a good interior. The mechanical are easier to fix or find. 150,000 miles is not high if it was maintained.
What people do not say is, why they are selling, and more important what type of inspections do you have that may stop you from driving your car. SMOG failure is one in CA.

[Eric93se]

Sieffy, check out this 328i in your neck of the woods.

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/...140721663.html

[bluptgm3]

Don’t purchase this car and plan to just drive it like a Honda or Toyota.

The 323 uses a single pre-catalytic converter O2 sensor and a single post-catalytic O2 sensor, so the cost of periodic replacement of these sensors is half that of a 328. The down side is that this is at the cost of single exhaust vs full dual exhaust on the 328.

All/most of the usual E36 ‘things’ are common so parts supply has not quite completely dried up.
Unless there is documentation, FLCA, FLCABs, Tie Rods, and RTABs should be looked at, in addition to complete cooling system....as indicated previously. Struts at this point are well past worn out if original, as are the rear shocks.
Try to avoid unknown part brands when accomplishing repairs and don’t be temped to buy the least expensive parts in the supply chain. Do research and determine who the E36 OE suppliers were. Stick with Lemforder, Febi/Bilstein, Koni, Sachs, Corteco, INA, Behr, Selari, Bosch, Seimans, VDO, and other known Perfomance or OE/OEM branded parts when accomplishing repairs. Many claim that Meyle HD are acceptable replacement suspension component.

Get a Bentley repair manual, and read the online DIYs/videos.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sieffy]

I went to go test drive and look at the car and the owner before him def replaced the thermostat and other cooling components, also the ac was working but the windows and sunroof were not.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks for the advice I have some extra money saved up as well as one friend with a e36 m3 hes rebuilding who is offering to help me fix this car and has parts because he is swapping the engine to an LS. Also have a friend who just got a 1994 e36 325i with extra parts as well and another friend who has been working on a e30 330i. I would have not decided to buy this car without other people I know actively working on theirs and offering their help.

[R.Thomas]

I purchased a 1994 318is with 155,000 miles as my first car. I also purchased a 1995 M3 a few years later with 70,000 miles. Even with the higher mileage, the 318is was a much more well maintained vehicle. So mileage and maintenance are not mutually exclusive. As others have said, I would try to negotiate the asking price to hedge yourself should the car have more problems than you think. At the $2k price point, you'll be hard pressed to find a better car. Hell, people spend $2k on a laptop!

[Sieffy]

Thanks yeah I am going to try to offer him 1800$ when I have cash in my hand trying to purchase it later today and then 1900$ if that does not work hopefully since there's more stuff broken like windows and sunroof he will agree to the price cut especially when paying in cash. I also have a trip permit ready and a cash receipt I made and printed out for him to sign and get a copy of.

[Jacksone30]

150 is not a lot.of miles if the car was maintained well. Put.it.on a lift and check for rust also .

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[mystreba]

What is happening with this? Did you get the car?

...and another friend who has been working on a e30 330i.

I don't believe such a thing exists.

[Sieffy]

I got the car for 1800$ already replaced the brakes and did the wipers brake light and maybe replacing exhaust with m3 exhaust off my friend's car. Also hopefully detailing the car and restoring paint and the interior needs major TLC. The car also has like 0 rust underneath with is awesome for working on it, the car does make a thunk when shifting so bushings might need replacing which sucks.

[Eric93se]

Awesome we need pics!

So the thunk could be a bad rear diff bolt, the one points front to back, people upgrade with a higher strength bolt. Could also be low fluid in the diff, would be a good idea to replace the fluid any way. If the car has LSD then it uses the higher weight oil.

And even more common is bad rear trailing arm bushings. Upgrading to Poly is a good idea they are split and easy to install, put marine grease on it, don't get hard ones though.

[bluptgm3]

....the car does make a thunk when shifting so bushings might need replacing which sucks.

Look at the transmission to drive shaft flex joint (Guibo).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bluptgm3]

And even more common is bad rear trailing arm bushings. Upgrading to Poly is a good idea they are split and easy to install, put marine grease on it, don't get hard ones though.

Poly, while is easy to install, is a bad idea for this joint. The RTA pivot is actually multi-axis. Best to stay with Lemforder RTABs and add Toe Limiters.

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/500336_x800.jpg

RTAB generally do not ‘klunk’ when torn.
The toe change allowed by torn RTAB presents itself as steering the car while accelerating hard in first/second gear. The car will more to right or left, then steer the opposite direction when abruptly lifting off the throttle.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Eric93se]

I have poly RTAB with built in limiters and they work fine.

[bluptgm3]

I have poly RTAB with built in limiters and they work fine.

They can contribute to a torn pocket.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sieffy]

I was going to do a self oil change when my tools arrived so ill probably do diff fluid also and check the bushings on the trailing arm and subframe and see if they need replacing

- - - Updated - - -

I actually checked for rust this car is from the east coast and is rust free which is crazy to me, I probably would have tried to fine a 325i or 328i but for 1800$ a rust free running 323is is really nice for 1800$. I'm planning on doing some mods to it after everything is sorted but then save up for a s52 engine swap hopefully or at that point buy a different e36 bmw.

[Eric93se]

So the rear diff drain/fill bolts are VERY tight and requires a square drive socket. Also there is not enough clearance to get a driver on the socket lol, so you have to use the socket inserted into the bolt and then the part of the driver that is still exposed you put a long open end wrench on (to get enough leverage). It would be great to have a welder to make your own wrench in this case. Also you should have new crush washers for both bolts. In the future when ordering from sites like RMeuropean or Pelican parts its a good idea to order crush washers from them for all the various fluid parts of the car because they are dirt cheap and they are the proper part. Crush washer are 3-4x thicker than typical washers and are maliable.

I think I got a square drive socket set off ebay for cheap.

[mystreba]

So the rear diff drain/fill bolts are VERY tight and requires a square drive socket. Also there is not enough clearance to get a driver on the socket ...

That method works. You can see what he's talking about at the 1:00 mark in this DIY video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z-Tuy1qiS64

Alternatively, I bought this low-profile 14mm hex socket and it was tight but I got the breaker bar on it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[bluptgm3]

Really stubby 14mm -
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vim-tool...RoCQRoQAvD_BwE

I bought a 14mm hex key and had a local machine shop cut a two inch piece off, I use it with six-point box wrench.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[crazycast2]

I've been driving my 98 323is as my daily for almost 9 years and the only major problems I've had were my fault. It's not flawless, power steering leaks, drivers window doesn't work, but it's been reliable.

[Spyke]

Roommates brother just picked one up for $2200, it was worth it JUST for the body alone. Cleanest black e36 coupe I've ever seen in my life, and I've been around these almost 20 years now.

It's all what it's worth to YOU at this point. That model will never be a classic or collectible.